wlspn

No. once it warms up it revs are hunting, very erratic idle... Warmer it gets the worse it is. Once its hot it just wants to stall. Even holding the throttle steady the revs are always changing. Yes, have checked timing, sitting at 20 degrees. OK, thanks mate, just figure another opinion never hurts. Yes, Duane seems to know his stuff. Hope he will be able to help me out... No, have checked voltages & resistances as well as replacing with a known working item. Thanks for all the input though guys. Will be sure to post up what was wrong when I finally find out...

I suppose the only way to check this would be to replace the whole AAC unit with a working item? Might give that a shot if I can get hold of one... Cleaned it before the engine went in but cant guarantee it hasnt jammed...

I have Aeroquip hoses for coolant in & out of my turbo. They are rubber(ish) but have a huge temperature rating. Have had these right next to the turbo unshielded for years & they are still the same as the day I bought them...

The RB30 & RB25 water pumps are very similar but not identical. Pretty much the only difference is the RB25 pump has an elongated (oval) hole at the top with a small bolt in it & the RB30 pump has a round hole in same place. Due to this the hole in the RB30 pump doesnt line up with the thread in the RB25 block... I personally got around this by drilling a hole & tapping a thread in the RB25 block to line up with the hole in the RB30 pump. No problems & a LOT cheaper than genuine... There is also slight differences, between brands, of the size & number of fins in the pump. I originally bought one from R&E Autos which had much larger fins but less of them & returned it to see if I could find one where bolt holes lined up. I couldnt (apart from Nissan) so went with an eBay item to save some dollars & found the fin design was identical to the factory item. I dont know if it would have made any difference but was happier with something that more closely represented the original... The eBay store where I bought my pump is called Car Sales Pty Ltd if you are interested.

Hey mate, yeah I had the same thing happen on my R32. Not quite as often as you, but at least every 3-6 months I would find my belt had suddenly chewed itself in half. Once even snapped because of this as I hadnt popped bonnet in a while & didnt realise it was wearing... Bits of belt everywhere! Have now fitted an RB25 & once Ive sorted the problems & can actually drive it am hoping this will have gone away. No explainable reason on my car either so unfortunately cant help you more than letting you know youre not the only one... If you find a reason drop me a PM, Cheers

Not fond of imitation of higher models (GTST with GTR badge, etc) & trying to pass them off as the real thing. Saw a GTT on Carsales just last week advertised as a AWD twin-turbo GTR when engine-bay pics clearly showed an RB25... Wanker! Also looking at Commodores for sale, the amount of people that call their executive, etc a SS, even when it has a (non-supercharged) 6 in it is ridiculous. Maybe some of these people are just clueless & believe they do have an SS but some must be trying their luck at getting more money... On saying all this, I am talking of badges alone... I would (& possibly will), fit an R32 GTR bonnet & grill to my GTST, but for cooling & weight reduction, not to try & claim it as a GTR. If I was to do this, I would probably also fit a genuine GTR front bumper (& N1 vents), once again not to claim status but as I believe they are a good looking item & for the price you wouldnt get an aftermarket item of matching quality... (N1 vents for added airflow/cooling) Upon the same lines I would fit GTR front guards (if I had fibreglass, etc rears) for the weight advantage & extra width... If I was to write off my GTST body, & could get one for the right price, I would probably even buy a GTR rolling shell & fit all my RWD running gear, RB25, etc to it, once again for weight & track advantage. I would not however, try to pass it off as a GTR... The only times I have thought badge-swapping even mildly OK is when an RB26 is fitted to an S13, R31, etc as they are using the badge simply to represent the hard work theyve put into an engine swap. Nobody with ANY knowledge would think the car was an AWD semi-track spec factory release... Just my thoughts

beware, if this is truly coming on due to exhaust temp being really excessive I would imagine possibility of lean mixtures

exhaust temp light

Hey buddy, if youre into trance/hardstyle clubs check out bubble...

Check the vac line running from your MAP sensor (little box next to brake booster) to plenum

Have to agree with above. A high-compression NA motor will still make boost & GOOD power... If it wasnt for the fact that higher compression motors with boost added are prone to detonation we would all have 1

When I first got my skyline, got pulled over asked to pop the bonnet. Had a Turbosmart supersonic BOV with the massive trumpet... Cop says, thats externally venting ha? I just denied all knowledge of anything, expecting to get reamed. Went to his car, grabbed a camera & took photos of my BOV. But, never heard any more about it. Pure luck but... Was a nice cop & was maybe just having a good day. Plus this was before every man & his dog had a skyline so they werent quite as hard then. All I can say is best of luck!

Hey mate, what is the other hose, right next to it, connected to? Are you having any running issues at all?

1.3-1.5v is the voltage when I first start it & its running sort of OK but still not the best... Then when you tap throttle, goes to 2v & stays there even after throttle is released. Also as I mentioned even if throttle is not touched voltage will still slowly creep up until it gets to 2v. Have tried disconnecting TPS when its running crap, measuring voltages at TPS & ECU + checked resistance of TPS wires back to ECU, etc If I can get hold of another one I will try it though as I havent actually replaced it at all

You say one end is disconnected... Where is the other end joined to? Trace it back & post that info, will be a good start on finding out where it should be... EDIT: Just re-read your post & looked at the photo. I know youre pointing out where its connected but any idea what that is? Where are other hoses in that area running to? & what model car is this RB25DET in?

Oh yeah, should have mentioned that. No fault codes... Diagnostics read all OK (code 55 or whatever it is)

Also thought I should note, just then I checked voltage at ECU, went under bonnet & checked voltage at AFM plug, gave it a small rev at throttle-body & checked voltage again. Could tell as soon as I released throttle that voltage would be up as you can actually hear that the AFM is sucking in more air! Quite a suction noise for idle...

Hey mate, just double-checked voltages & they are the same at AFM as at ECU. Tried mine, another pink label & a green label (with modified wiring to work) & all coming up roughly the same... & as I said I know for sure the green label worked as it was on my RB20 for years & been out for a few months only... Any other thoughts or ideas? P.S-On tests I done just then, pink label cold-start voltage was around 1.5v at idle, tapped throttle & jumped to around 2v Green label (cold-ish) was 1.45v, throttle touched 1.95v From previous testing if I dont touch throttle at all it creeps up really slowly until its on 2v...

R31 Nismoid: Will double-check but 99% sure voltage is same at AFM & at ECU Tried another pink-label AFM but had been sitting around for years so unsure of condition, fitted my old RB20 green label AFM (& plug, with a 12v earth) which I know was working only months ago on my RB20 No, havent tried swapping AFM into another car... Moodles2: Standard R33 ECU. Have tried 2 other R33 ECUs as well...

Standard R33 ECU & pink label AFM. Bought the whole R33 a few years ago, stock as a rock... Due to this am running all R33 sensors, etc Also drove R33 when I first got it & it ran fine... Then pulled engine out, it sat around for a year or more, then dropped it in my 32... Have checked TPS voltage, all good

Hi all, Recently dropped an RB25 in my R32 & since first start has never run right. Is overfueling a stupid amount on idle, (7ms injector pulse width) to the point where it cant be driven due to the amount of smoke & hunting issues (due to mixture I believe...) Thanks to this has been off road for months! Runs best (but still not perfect) when cold-started but as soon as throttle is touched, even slightly & released, starts pouring smoke & idling like a POS! Unsure of AFM signal voltage when cold & running half decent but I know after throttle has been touched & its started really putting the fuel in that the AFM signal voltage is around 2v+ on idle! Car runs good in limp mode with AFM unplugged. Basically just want ideas of what could cause voltage to be so high? This is obviously telling ECU more air is entering the engine than what actually is & is causing my problem... Things I have tried so far include: *Swapping AFM *Swapping ECU *Checking AFM wires for short-circuit *Measuring resistance of AFM wires back to ECU plug (& ECCS relay) *Checking battery output voltage *Checking all earths (battery, body, engine, ECU, etc) Probably some stuff that Ive missed but will add later... In the meantime if anyone has anything to add please help me out! Am even willing to pay for correct information... Yes, if you solve my problem I will send you money!

Goes into limp mode, obviously, but otherwise is a lot better... Smoke clears up, stops hunting, etc

Hi all, Recently dropped an RB25 in my R32 & since first start has never run right. Is overfueling a stupid amount on idle, (7ms injector pulse width) to the point where it cant be driven due to the amount of smoke & hunting issues (due to mixture I believe...) Thanks to this has been off road for months! Runs best (but still not perfect) when cold-started but as soon as throttle is touched, even slightly & released, starts pouring smoke & idling like a POS! Unsure of AFM signal voltage when cold & running half decent but I know after throttle has been touched & its started really putting the fuel in that the AFM signal voltage is around 2v+ on idle! Basically just want ideas of what could cause voltage to be so high? This is obviously telling ECU more air is entering the engine than what actually is & is causing my problem... Things I have tried so far include: *Swapping AFM *Swapping ECU *Checking AFM wires for short-circuit *Measuring resistance of AFM wires back to ECU plug (& ECCS relay) *Checking battery output voltage *Checking all earths (battery, body, engine, ECU, etc) Probably some stuff that Ive missed but will add later... In the meantime if anyone has anything to add please help me out! Am even willing to pay for correct information... Yes, if you solve my problem I will send you money!

Hey Dazza, May also want to loom int0 MTQ in Dandenong. If you like can give you a phone number & address.... Nice & close to home also!

Yeah would love HCR32 on my GTST Despite what some people think... Have forgotten most of the good plates I have seen over the years but some that spring to mind: OBEHVE- Oh behave (R33) MADAZ- On a mazda (quick rotary I think) UPRCLS- Upper class (on a gemini ) Is nice but... RIPNE1- WRX show car from a while ago CSHDUP- Cashed up (300C I think) BLOME- Supercharged 8 NOTMNE- Not mine PIMPD or PIMPN BSHPIG- Tough patrol