wlspn

Thats all it does. Stops starter motor from cranking unless it is aligned properly to tell the ECU that the auto trans is in either park or neutral. Take it when you turn the key its dead? No starter crank at all? If so, only thing I could suggest is plug the loom in (if you havent already), have rear wheels off ground, car on stands, etc... (If manual, in neutral will be fine) Hold the key in the start position & rotate the selector in the middle of the inhibitor switch. If you manage to get it into the right position & make the ECU think the car is in P or N it may start... Is your car now manual? If so & you can get it to start by doing as suggested above, you may be able to freeze it in this position (super glue, etc) to allow temporary starting of car. Let me know how you go

Are your tyres the same rolling diameter? ie. Same profile front & rear? Wouldnt expect that to make a huge amount of difference but. Guessing here but most likely cause sounds like ATESSA fluid...

Mate the only water pump I have ever seen where that bolt lines up is genuine. Every spare parts store has the pump you have listed as being for RB20, 25, 26 & 30 but is incorrect... Is to suit RB30 & thats it. You will notice (correct me if Im wrong) that the standard pump has an elongated (oval) hole in this position where your new pump only has a round hole. I got around this on my RB25 by drilling a hole in the block to line up with hole in new pump, tapping a thread & screwing a bolt into that. If you have, or can borrow a tap & die set this is the way to go in my opinion. Dont listen to people who tell you to just slap more silicon on it, it will cause headaches later... You could probably go to somewhere like Bunnings or Total Tools with your bolt & buy a tap to suit. Make sure a pilot drill is included to ensure correct size (very important) Also make sure you centre-punch the block... This will probably work out cheaper than a genuine pump

I have a problem with my RB25 overfueling & generally crap idle... o2 sensor voltage is constant. Cant remember figure... Is the overfueling likely to be causing the constant voltage or constant voltage causing overfueling? Unplugged o2 sensor & dont think it made any difference...

Mate, the "big round thing", 2nd pic from the bottom is definitely an inhibitor (park/neutral) switch from an auto trans. Dare say the "long skinny thing", next to it in same pic is a A/T temp or revolution sensor (educated guess) If you are having problems starting the car, good chance it will be because of that. What ECU are you running? Stagea was obviously auto & the inhibitor switch is used to tell the ECU what range is selected (P,R,N,D,1, etc) Will only allow car to start in P or N. Therefore without this hooked up, wont start... By their position (near the inhibitor switch), I think its safe to say the plug & wires in the bottom pic are also auto trans related. As for other two, really have no idea where they would hook up, but going by the trend emerging I would guess they are something to do with an auto trans as well... Hope it helps

Yeah still all standard fuel system at moment. OK, cheers, have eliminated ECU now anyway

As above, are there any differences between R33 series 1 & series 2 ECUs?

Why is that? Because Trent knows his stuff?

Yeah... I know... OK, will try that. Willing to give anything a shot... Injector pulse width at idle should be 2-2.8ms & AFM signal should be around 1.5v OK, thanks for the honest opinion. Wanted to hear from someone like yourself who actually tunes cars... Figured it was worth a shot asking. Actually a mechanic myself so as you can imagine, hate taking my car to the shop. Problem is I rebuild automatic transmissions so dont have much in way of engine diagnosis tools at work... Also dont trust many general mechanics knowledge of imports... What is your going rate for this sort of thing? I am just in Cranbourne & work in Sth Dande too... (A & B Automotive Remanufacturing) If you dont want to discuss prices on here drop me a PM or I will call Monday. Will probly also be after a remap once this is all sorted too Yeah, I hope your right...

Hi all, No doubt some of you know Im having problems with an RB25 overfueling at idle. Injector pulse at idle is 7ms! Car runs in limp mode, idles smoothly & does not smoke (although it smells a bit rich) until AFM wires are pulled or played with, then it starts pouring black smoke, hunting real bad & AFM signal voltage sits on around 2.4v at idle... Obviously I strongly suspect AFM circuit but AFM & ECU have been swapped & AFM wiring has been checked for resistance to ECU, resistance to earth, shorts, etc & I cant fault it! Have also tried removing AFM plug & hooking wires straight to AFM... Anyway if things dont get sorted soon Im wondering if I could go for a remap & get fuel maps changed to provide the correct amount of fuel? I know its a band-aid solution & probably not ideal & I would much rather find & fix the problem but this is getting ridiculous & Im getting desperate. Have no idea whats going on & neither does anyone else it seems... Just wondering what peoples opinions are on this? Thanks

I have a lot of these genuine hoses in good condition due to doing a greddy-style plenum swap. If you are interested & can take photos of what you need, PM me with pics. Will check if I have what you need...

1st car: Turbo Nissan Exa (on L's) 2nd car: KE70 corolla (RWD... Loved it!) 3rd car: Series 2 RX-7 with EFI 12A Turbo built by Dyson Rotary 4th car: R32 GTST Skyline (Current) Sometimes wish Id kept the rotor!

OK got ya mate. Sorry, when you said unplug both ends of loom, was assuming you meant to test resistance between AFM plug & ECU pin... Will give that a shot. Anything is possible... Open to any thoughts at the moment as Im just running out of ideas & things to check...

Have just done that, as written above. Car is also running now but still reading 2v at signal wire on idle which is still a touch high... Temp sensor has been swapped for a known working unit & temp sensor wires have also been resistance checked back to ECU plug. Wiring was done by a member on here. Nothing he has done could cause this however... Have no doubts in his work...

Resistance from white/blue & orange/blue wires to ECU plug is approx. 1.5 ohms & so is black/white AFM to ECCS relay...

Ok, had an ECU in the car borrowed from someone (to eliminate my ECU as being problem) & obviously it wasnt too happy as car wouldnt start or run with it in place... Put my ECU back in & no longer has voltage at all pins but still has around 2v at orange/blue wire on idle... Should be around 1.4v as far as I know? Any ideas what could be causing high voltage? Obviously the ECU sort of thinks its pulling in more air than it should on idle so its adding extra fuel... (last time I had a scantool on, injector pulse was 7ms at idle) Will check resistance of each wire back to ECU & report back in a few minutes... Damn its hot too!

Hey guys, No doubt some of you may have read about my RB25 overfuelling (I know, I know, those of you who have are probly ALMOST as sick of it as me... Anyway I keep testing things & results keep changing! At first car idled like crap, after a LONG time, found disconnecting AFM made it stop smoking & hunting (although it still smelt rich & obviously is in limp mode) Had around 1v at orange/blue AFM wire at this stage... Then all of a sudden one day it started fine! Thought problems were solved until I gave it a rev & found it was in limp mode. Found AFM wires had to be wiggled & held a certain way for AFM to connect properly & when it did it started hunting again, voltage at orange/blue pin on idle was 2.4v! NOW, car wont start at all, so checked voltage with ignition on only... Black/white trace has 12.4v White/blue trace has 11.1v Orange/blue trace has 9.9v Surely these wires shouldnt have voltage (or not so high) with only ignition on? If anyone knows for sure, would be great... This car is starting to drive me bloody nuts!

Ceramic coating isnt as expensive as some people may think... Guy I work with just got a pretty long set of extractors done for less than $200 at HPC... We get trade price because of where we work but cant make that much difference... Definitely worth it too

Na mate, had no luck... Thanks very much for your help but. Think problem is somewhere in AFM circuit... Have replaced AFM & checked resistance & voltage of all wires & came up good, but when car is running & you wiggle wires it really changes idle so has to be a problem in there somewhere... Was going to return ECU yesterday but went to leave work & found the lancer had a flat tyre... After fixing that was absolutely rooted! Will give you a call & come down either over weekend or early next week if thats ok? Thanks again buddy

This Nam guy is shifty as... I bought a "direct plug-in" loom for an RB25-R32 conversion from him about same time ago. Met me in a carpark, & despite saying he had full engine & body looms, only had half of engine loom & no body loom at all. Organised to meet him again for rest of loom & what he had there looked good so I took that home to make a start, then when I got it home found it wouldnt plug into the R32 body-loom plugs... Turns out all plugs had been replaced with some custom things so was pretty much made to just fit his car. Called him about it & he says, "oh sorry mate, had no idea, wont leave you screwed like this, will refund tomorrow...." Never heard from him since... Even if I had been able to get rest of loom it would have helped but stopped answering phone, wouldnt return calls, etc. Would be less shitty if he had answered phone & said, "sorry mate but thats how it goes, will get you rest of loom & thats it" but to tell someone you will refund them & then just ignore calls is a pussy act! Had to pay to get my original loom modified & still have his piece of junk in my shed... Apparently he spends a lot of time at a certain workshop in West Melb... May have to pay him a visit one day...

Sorry, bit off topic but I have fitted an OS Giken triple in an RB25 box with Nismo slave & a smaller (than standard Nissan) thrust & have a really wierd pedal feel. There is a thread on here somewhere about it... Pedal is soft as until just before hitting the floor & then gets quite firm. Hard to explain but not nicest pedal feel... Is this the sort of reason your mate fitted a larger bore master cylinder? Basically after a standard(ish) pedal feel with the triple plate. Thought Nismo slave & this thrust would do it but apparently not...

RB25 in my R32. Not finished yet but getting kind of close... More worried about getting it running at the moment. Poor quality pic too...

Thanks heaps mate but series 2 engine so possibly some difference in ECU... Seriously appreciated though

Have had factory oil-cooler & plate off but they ended up going back on. Thinking maybe non-turbo model has a plate between block & filter without provision for cooler or possibly cooler can be removed with a bolt blocking passage to it... Not 100% though. All I know is you cant remove that factory plate & just screw filter directly onto block

No its not the way to go if thats what is meant. Block has no thread to screw an oil filter onto. Stock plate (which filter & cooler are attached to) just slides on, with an o-ring to seal & bolts to secure it