wlspn

$600 to get them fitted? Would probably be a lot more by the time you took the engine out...

Post swaybar to 3977 VIC? If so how much?

Nothing wrong with doing it. I stripped back the earth to expose some wire, looped that through the hole in the globe bracket then soldered it back to itself to secure it. Had no problems & have been doing that for a fair while now...

Try secretdrift.com.au. A trader on there sells universal flares. Cant remember who but...

Use a H3 globe & run the extra wire to the steel bracket of the globe. There is a hole in it already. Same mounting pattern, only difference is wiring... Buy some & you will see exactly what I mean. Sure you can get Phillips, etc in H3, not to mention ordinary globes are more common & therefore cheaper.

Keen on any info you find out about this also...

Yeah I have the Noltec subframe bushes & they are good but as Beer Baron mentioned, EPIC job! I fitted mine at trade-school & even with all the right equipment it was a prick of a job... Would be easier to do another set now but still... If you're not doing it yourself try to go to a workshop thats done it before. & yeah, be sure to get a firm quote

Can it be done? Yes. Should it be done? Depends on the reason for it. (in your case I would say no...)

To check for a leak in intercooler, piping or around silicon joins, etc spray with soapy water, preferably while at a high idle (1500-2000rpm is plenty). If you have a leak it will blow bubbles. Seems wierd & you may think the water would get sucked in but it works...

bump

As above, chasing an RB26 long-nose crank from R33 GTR, etc in useable condition. Feel free to SMS me on 0423 303 007. Cheers, Brett

As above, just need to slightly modify t/b, not change TPS. I tried out an eBay special t/b & had to modify it... Also beware, my throttle-blade started digging into the alloy & jamming the throttle on then buggered a bearing so I pulled the whole thing apart, fitted new bearings, seals, etc & is now a lot better. Unless you're willing/able to do all that chances are you'll have dramas

Running only an external cooler is fine. I have worked on transmissions for around 5 years & never had probelms with running too cold... Very common to do on all sorts of cars, not just high-performance or tow vehicles. If you are really paranoid you can get a B&M thermostat but really its not needed.

What part are you talking about chewdog?

As above. The Nismo item just has a few extra spot-welds... Not worth the money in my opinion. Have broken mine before & now have a standard item seam-welded. Just do a bit at a time so it doesn't distort as its quite thin metal. If you can't do it yourself go to an exhaust shop or somewhere with a welder. Will charge sweet FA. A LOT cheaper & a lot stronger than Nismo!

Hi guys, Looking at upgrading the diff in my R32 GTST. Has an RB25DET fitted & has seen better days... Viscous LSD is still working fine (for now) but diff is very noisy (suspect c/w & pinion or carriers) so figure while I'm there I may as well upgrade LSD. Daily-driver but may end up doing track-work soon. Basically tossing up between a full GTR rear-end & an aftermarket LSD centre. Roughly same sort of price... I am a mechanic by trade & specialise in auto-transmissions & diffs, etc so could easily enough fit the Nismo clutch-pack upgrade to the GTR diff. I realise the GTR shafts are stronger but car is & will be only making around 300rwkw so probably overkill. Has anyone even had problems with GTST shafts before at any power level? The thing is GTR shafts are also heavier & for the sake of performance, etc I am trying to keep everything as light as possible. I know the GTR runs alloy hubs so would this counter-act the extra weight of the shafts? Any opinions on the best overall compromise would be great. Cheers

You do realise you can buy "chrome" globes that look clear but are amber when illuminated? They're about $20 a pair! Saves painting your orange ones but...

A multi-plate clutch would be noisy with your foot on the clutch when theres no clamp on the plates & they're rattling around. Mine is... Sounds like you have a noisy cluster-shaft bearing. It is located in the sandwich-plate of the gearbox. Common Nissan problem

Well, no, not from looking at it. Unless you have a GTR rear-end conversion it will all look factory as you will just have an aftermarket LSD centre in your original housing. Without removing the rear cover you wouldn't see any difference...

I fitted an RB30 water pump to my RB25DET as there was a huge price diff & the only change was the bolt hole you mention. I was going to file out the hole in the 30 pump to elongate it but there wasn't a heap of material there so instead I drilled & tapped a thread in my block that lined up with the hole in the 30 pump. Am surprised your mechanic didn't just do that... There is a fair distance between the original thread & the new one so now I can run whichever pump I choose with all the bolts in it. I have heard many people leave the bolt out & fill the hole with silicon but seems a bit risky to me. Can't be bothered doing the job twice...

If the oil is from the turbo it would be cheaper & more beneficial (for performance & reliability) to fit a high-flow or aftermarket turbo. First of all, remove the intercooler pipe & confirm that is the source of your leak then go from there...

If you have the standard v-lsd just use normal oil, not LSD specific oil. That is mainly designed for the clutches/cones in a mechanical LSD (such as the GTR diff) & will be of no benefit in a viscous... How modified is the car you bought? Not a sure answer but unless its fairly modified chances are it has the stock centre. MOST people seem to modify for power before they worry about traction/stopping/turning, etc

Hey! Don't laugh at the poor guy. Quote him...

Brake or clutch master cylinder? I have both (R33 items) in my R32... My car came with single-piston calipers all round & after I fitted R33 4/2 pot brakes I had crap pedal feel so fit the matching master. Required a few modifications to the lines (some bending & a cut & join) but that was it. Pretty easy really. A brake shop will have the joiner if you dont have one. Quite cheap... Had to fit the R33 clutch m/c to clear my plenum. Just slightly bent the line to it & was all good. If you need any pics let me know & I'll try to get my camera working. Just measure the pushrod length from the R32 item(s) you remove & adjust the R33 item(s) to match.

I used the Navara one but think they may be identical. Would probably go with Navara just to be safe. Just be sure to perform the modifications mentioned in the DIY thread as its not just a straight bolt-in...