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Wiring for original sender is just tied away in engine bay, not earthed out. So normally fitting an aftermarket gauge & removing stock sender would keep warn light on constantly?

Ok, so why no warning light? I have no stock sender so shouldn't it think I have no oil pressure & warn me? When my gauge was playing up, saying I had almost no oil pressure, I read a few threads which said all is ok if warning light isn't on as it gets its reading from elsewhere, which is what led me to believe that... However you have to be correct as there is nowhere else it could get signal from...

Replaced my standard sender with the aftermarket one for the gauge. Standard one didn't read at all right anyway so no use in having it... & warning light wont be on. Gets signal from elsewhere

A lot of good info here but I think some of it may be a bit full on for someone just starting to get a grasp on things, especially saying that to move 100 apples in 100 seconds, you need to move 100 apples a second... (haha, it's late dude, I know) I think one of the easiest ways to explain it is this. Grab a 600ml coke bottle. Put a hole in it just big enough for the nozzle of a blow-gun (off air compressor) & fill it with air. Within a few seconds the bottle will be full of air, start to build pressure & will blow off the end or push the gun out. Now grab a 20L oil drum & do the same thing. it will take a lot longer to build the same pressure... Once full the pressure will be the same (e.g 5psi) but it takes a larger volume of air to reach that pressure

The nismo pivot is good security. I snapped 2 pivots which caused 2 buggered slaves as well & broke the pedal box once. Probably mainly to do with driving style but...

Had one of these in my car a while ago & although the friction material is very thin, it holds up ok. Lasted 2 or 3 years in my car, thrashing the date out of it & only failed in the end because the pivot broke, the clutch fork moved & I tried to drive with no clutch... Very easy to drive with too. Overall nice clutch I think. Due to the fact that you shouldn't slip it taking off (you'll get used to it...) it shouldn't wear a lot which I suppose is how you get away with such a thin lining. Haven't seen any other similar clutches to compare thickness

What size is the return hose?

Thanks for info on front hubs. Will take my chances with rears. As I mentioned, have been told from several knowledgable people on here that hub assemblies are around 2.5kg lighter each... & I'm sure I've read somewhere (correct me if I'm wrong) that removing x amount of unsprung weight is equivelant to removing something like twice the amount of sprung weight. e.g. Removing 5kg unsprung is similar to removing 10kg sprung. People get all excited about losing 5kg (or less) weight from c/f bonnets, etc so I think it's worth it. not expecting miracles but it all helps. People also pay HUGE money for lightweight wheels, companies like Porsche spend HEAPS developing carbon/ceramic brakes all to reduce unsprung weight...

Interested to hear how you go as I'm looking at GTR diff, driveshafts, rear hubs, etc for my R32 GTS25T as well. As a side-note, backlash is determined by shims behind pinion & either side of centre. So even a rooted c/w & pinion can have good backlash. Just normally causes a period noise (e.g. noise at a certain speed) If you want centre preload, pinion preload, backlash, etc set correctly I would take it to a shop...

The GTR has a better diff. Unsure of ratio at this time of morning but is a stronger unit overall. Also if you will be using the hubs the GTRs are alloy saving around 5kg in unsprung weight which is a huge advantage. Whats it going into?

Personally I would lean towards welding it. You say you know a boilmaker, etc.. As long as the quality of weld is excellent theres no reason a welded diff can't be as strong as a minispool. I welded my mates diff in his R31 drift car & still going strong over 2 years later. Remove spider gears & just weld side gears to centre. Your choice but I would be going the free option... Would personally spend the money on some new bearings & resetting

Anyone? Surely someone knows whether GTR front hubs are alloy or not? Really want to get this noise sorted & as I say, don't want to spend money on original if there's a better option...

Shop around. I think you should find somewhere cheaper. Recently had the yoke cut off a 33 tailshaft, welded to my 32 tailshaft, balanced, etc for around $150. I am lucky in that I get trade price but & also used a proper driveline shop who specialises in tailshafts. Would suggest you look for a similar specialist...

Have searched for threads on this but had no luck. Read somewhere on here recently that 32 GTR rear hubs are alloy & around 2.5kg lighter each than 32 GTST items. Apparently with GTR rear coilovers & LCAs ( or some modifications to OE) they can be fitted to the GTST reducing unsprung weight & also allowing more choice in coilovers. Am looking into doing this but anyway, my question is, are 32 GTR front hubs also alloy & can they be fitted to a 32 GTST? If so, what modifications are needed? Has anyone done this? I have a munted wheel bearing knocking like the wheel is going to fall off & can get hold of GTR front hubs very cheap. Therefore if they are an upgrade & are able to be fitted (with light modifications even) I would obviously prefer to go with these rather than repairing my originals... Any help would be appreciated! Cheers, Brett

Same as Bubba, I welded some flat bar onto top of crossmember extending it enough to reach other 2 holes. Seems to be fine...

You mean leave it disconnected? If so not a wise idea. As well as spraying fine oil (if you have blow-by) it will also create a vac leak

One will be BOV return. Don't need this when dosing. Other will be breather return from cam covers. Either get a catch-can or put a fitting in your metal intake pipe for that hose to push onto...

Sounds to me like your TPS wiring is backwards if its reading 100% at closed throttle & going down as you push the pedal...

Although you didn't mention them I assume you already have a big FMIC & aftermarket fuel pump

Don't think he has a new cat, just new dump & front pipes... But pretty much as suggested. Removing standard dump is just a case of removing turbo heat-shield, undoing bolts to turbo (some may be easier from below), unplugging 02 sensor, removing rear cat bolts, some elbow grease & plenty of swearing. It's not at all hard but can be fiddly due to tight area, etc Would then chop the stock front pipe close to where the cat is welded on & if you don't have the equipment, take the whole piece to an exhaust shop & get a price. They will sort it no worries & it shouldn't cost much. Will just cut weld at old flange, clean up the end of the cat & weld a new 3" flange onto the end of the cat. If you do this you may have to get them to fit the dump & front as well... If you already had a 3" front pipe which you were replacing you could cut the front pipe off & make the flange that was on the rear of the front pipe the new front flange for your cat (if you get me? hard to explain...) but as its stock will only be a 2.5" flange & as I assume rest of system is 3" you don't want that

What do people (who know) think of these 'direct from battery' wiring setups? Any advantage or disadvantage to these?

Saw an article in Autosalon magazine where they had a mildly modified (under 200kw from memory) R33 GTST with I think a Plazmaman plenum among other small mods. They dyno'd it, then fit a bigger t/b (again Plazmaman I think) & picked up something like 20-30rwkw throughout the rev-range... Been a long time, maybe even a few years since I read it so sorry I can't be more specific...

1st picture doesn't work. 2nd picture (& 3rd if they're the same), if you mean the black/red wires with eyelets on the end, look like earths for something. Pretty sure they could be alternator by looks of it.... Check with a test-light to see if they are earths & wait until someone confirms but. The last picture is definitely an earth strap from turbo-manifold. Normally goes to a bracket on strut tower which also has a little silver box on it (can't remember what that silver box is called or does now, something to do with fuel pump earthing I think)

Cool. What I was hoping to hear... Thanks

Want to be clear from the start, I am not wanting to start a debate about VTA vs plumb-back BOVs. My situation is, I am about to get some custom intercooler piping made from cooler to throttle-body. I have a MAP-sensor based ECU & currently have a VTA BOV. However have hardly driven the car since the ECU was installed (due to problems, hence the new intercooler piping...) & don't really know what the BOV sounds like. Have GTR cooler piping (getting changed anyway but to similar design on cooler side) with BOV down in inner guard so can't be seen & if it's quiet enough I was going to keep that on for now. However if its too loud or whatever I want to change to GTR BOV, but don't want tune to be affected whatsoever (when backing off, etc) Basically I'm wondering if the car is tuned with VTA BOV & I then change to GTR, etc plumb-back (or vice-versa) will tune be affected at all? I know that using an AFM with a VTA BOV causes problems (been there...) & using a MAP-sensor with VTA is OK but is this because air being released by BOV is accounted for with MAP tune or what? Cheers, Brett