400HP

:lol: Thats just GAY! :bahaha:

Hi, Does anyone know when you buy aftermarket dump pipes whether you can plug in the standard O2 sensors from the standard dump pipes into these. In particular I'm talking about the HKS Extension (dump pipes) for R33 GTR. Cheers

Does anyone know anything about these? What sort of comfort/performance do they have? what adjustments do they offer?

theres two types that are common in Australia. Theres the NA series and the CC series. NA are asbestos based (not sure.. check)... and I think the CC series are carbon metalic or something. You can see some info at www.belperformance.com.au or thr Centrax Auto website which I can't remember. Depending on what you want them for as in street/track theres a huge difference in the grades.

how about if the car is in joint names with someone in your family... is all you need a letter?

a little green are we franks

Yeh I found out the hard way that the ATTESA will only be active if you have your foot on the throttle. It is a bit hairy the first few times cos your natural reaction is to back off but if you do that you'll get understeer..... when in doubt.... power out really?

Both of those are stock. Anyway hw can I check it?

No electronic controller. I've removed the small boost restrictor from the vacuum hose going to the solenoid and its been running reliably for a few months. Just took the car out for a drive this mornng and nothings wrong either.... still can't explain it...

Tonite when I was driving I stopped at a light and then when I started to accelerate again I felt a major loss of power in the mid to top end. I accelerated again and when I looked at the boost gauge I noticed instead of 1.05 bar which it normally reads on full boost it noly had 0.5/0.6 bar. I had driven the car probably 60km or so today and didn't have the problem at all before that. Anyway I pulled over, checked the hoses going to the solenoid and also to the boost gauge - nothing was wrong. I turned the car off and turned it on again and then the problem was gone. This is the first time its ever happened... any ideas??

I've already emailed you twice about the front pipes and you said you'd take a pic for me. Call me on my mobile number that I emailed it you.

AFter removing the door trim last nite and having a look at the bolts for the windows we fuond there were two main areas to adjust as Zahos said. Along the bottom middle and top there are a few bolts that simply hold the window in and also hold the frame that moves the window. These can be tightened slightly and it seemed to fix the problem. Along the top there are two other bolts which can slide up and down and guide the windows movement. These are adjustable however we didn't adjust them. I'll try post pics tonite.

1. No you can put any spark plug in as long as it suits your car. 2. It depends on what kind of service and where you go. For example if its a small oil change it wn't cost a lot. If its a major 100 000km service where timing belt comes out etc Expect to pay a lot more.

cheers mate, another noob question... is there anything in aprticular i need to do to take the door trim off?

Hi, When i first got the car the problem wasn't that apparent but now after a while its gotten worse and worse. It used to only happen when the window was partially or fully down but now occurs when the window is up. This could be a bit of a noob qestion but are there bolts and stuff to tighten and grease the window bearings or whatever? Cheers Yang

MY squeak is coming from the back right suspension. The suspension is totally stock and I've been told it is probably due to worn bushes (which I've heard is a common occurance on R33's)... so I'm gonna go get it all replaced....

Theres been a few of these for sale and floating around and I know they're a good ECU and pretty expensive too when new. Does anyone know who can tune them though??

which cars did u setup to drift ??

From what I recall I had 2 wires spare but GTR's use 2 wires for Air flow so you should have those 3 spare. They don't need to be wired.

so that was like a $4K traffic light race hahaha

Make sure your ECU is securely bolted. Obviously make sure all your wires are correct.... when your car is off can you see if when you push the throttle you can see the reading?... This all looks fine with me. Obvious thing also make sure its 6 cyl. When the car is off A/F shoudln't read anything.

I bought my boost gauge from hm and know of many people that have bought stuff. As soon as he gets it youll get it soon after and you can track using EMS where the package is too.

Mine stays on for about 3 seconds after I turn off the car. Have u waited this long and it just stays on??

my install guide didn't tell me ANY of the colours of the ECU wires.... it only had colours of the SAFC wires. From each ECU pin there should only be ONE wire. So all you do is locate the pin.... see which wire is coming out the back of it.... and tap into that with the SAFC wire.

I don't understand your problem. If you've managed to do all the other wires its exactly the same. Follow the ECU diagram and intercept the throttle with your SAFC wire. I'm not sure if it will run without it. I assume if you've already wired the airflow in and out that the SAFC is expecting the throttle reading too.