Stick180

Best way is to use nistune to do a log, from there you can work out what is going on

Fuseable Link

The factory boost gauge gets its reference from a sender in the engine, near the BMC. I don't know why you are bothering fitting a factory triple gauge as the are pretty inaccurate.

Anyone?

Hi all, So this is somewhat of a noob question, and after much searching SAU, FB, and the interwebs, i cannot find any concrete info on how to reset the TPS position on an RB25 neo. Some background on why i need to do this: I had been chasing an electrical gremlin where the car would die after hitting the limiter( which turned out to be an incorrectly set Nistune rev limit parameter). During the whole process, i had checked the TPS voltages, and noticed that when the TPS was closed it read 0.30v, and at WOT it would read 3.63v. The resistance sweep in both directions was correct. Now, obviously this is out of Nissans specified window, and when i try to adjust it, it just idles up (to about 2000rpm) and the TPS IDLE indicator in Nistune does not illuminate, and adjusting the IACV does nothing to reduce the RPM. I've read you could leave the battery disconnected, or cycle the ign on and off 10 times etc etc but none of these have worked. The only thing i have yet to check (which i should have done earlier) is to refit my original Neo auto TB, which i had swapped over to an S2 RB25 TB (because the TSC TB solenoid fouled on my coilpacks), my thinking here is that maybe the S2 TB doesnt open/sweep the same way as the Neo? (im still using the neo TPS) Anyone with any tips? Much appreciated.

I will give this a go.. Thank you good sir

Yeah, its holding boost to redline now. Yep still lazy, probably lazier now after the retune, but i guess thats the joys of journal bearing turbos. Not unpleasant to drive though. Still chasing an electrical issue (TPS or TPS voltage, something to do with Nistune, dunno) where the car goes into a limp mode of some description if it bounces the limiter so haven't been able to do a proper run down the 1/4 yet (only managed a 13.5 @ 112mph, 2.8 60ft)

Should update this, went back for some fine tuning to the e85 tune, and turned boost upto 23psi. Made an extra 30 rwkw.

Assuming you go Nistune with the R34 auto ECU, which is the smartest option for what you want, You can turn all the auto specific flags, so the ECU no longer looks for it, therefor you won't see any CEL codes.

Its a C1 bulb

That was my thoughts, and at about $1200 AUD landed, its worth a shot. Not sure on timing, but knowing my tuner it wouldnt be anything crazy. Because of the EWG spring drama, its not building boost like it should, and its dropping 2-3 psi upto. So once i have that sorted i think driveability will be much improved. When it is on boost, its very punchy and the spool noise is pure jizz

Finally made the club. Completely stock 25 Neo including all manifolds. mods: Borg Warner Airwerks S257SX-E TS 0.83 on stock manifold, Tial MV-R EWG, Bosch 1250cc injectors, Walbro 485 with hardwire mod, 3" turbo back exhaust with highflow cat and HKS Super Drager muff. HDI IC, 3" intake, Nistune with feature pack 2 and flex fuel sensor. Bosch R8 coilpacks fuel: BP 98/ United e85 power:266rwkw 98 + 18psi/302rwkw e85 + 19psi oil:Penrite Racing 10/Tenths 10w40 useage: Weekend warrior/ some track days lifespan: 172000 + 1 week failure: comments: EWG needs more spring (0.3 bar) so has some lazy spool (140kw @ 4000rpm) and drops 2.5psi from 5500 to 6800 rpm, so gate is blowing open.

C34 Stagea S2 Unopened RB25DET Neo Stock Intake and exhaust manifold (modified with 12mm T3-T4 spacer) Borg Warner Airwerks S257SX-E 0.83 T4 split pulse Tial MVR 44mm external gate on rear housing 3" Turbo back exhaust, Highflow cat, HKS Super drager muffler Nistune with flex sensor and feature pack 2 1250cc Bosch injectors Walbro 485 fuel pump Bosch R8 coilpacks Greddy Profec B spec II EBC Rev limit dropped to 6800 Has a boost leak, boost drop at about 5500rpm to 17 psi Made 266rwkw on 98 @ 18psi Made 302rwkw on e85 @ 19ish psi

Ok, Im a paid SAU Supporter, but not a member of any state club...

Question, By "member", is it a QLD member or just a paid SAU member?

Is this the compound turbo'd stagea from the vid that has been doing the rounds?

Out of curiosity, How did you manage to spend $2500 replacing the headunit?

Im using an R34 clutch pedal and master cylinder. The bottom holes of the pedal bracket don't line up, but the top 2 and the single one at the top all do. Im going to weld on some plate at the bottom of mine then drill holes to suit, although currently i have just the 3 and its doing fine.

After having a VE for a work car for a few months, there is no way in hell i would ever want to have to get back in one, let alone encourage someone to buy one. Biggest hunk of crap i have ever driven.

Also, rear suspension in the RS should be eyelet and the RS4s is fork

You don't have to, but its not worth the effort. Using suspension from a 1300kg car in a 1600kg car isn't the smartest move. Spring rates will be wrong, valving will be wrong and over feel like a bag of dicks. Save your coin and buy something vehicle specific. MCA make the best coilovers available for the C34.

Check to see if there is power at the lights, if there is, then try another headlight stalk.

S2's dont have an ignitor

SAU Boat club? Wait, R33 owners already own that one..

This looks exactly like the pile of shit i pulled out of mine. There was over 15kg of old wiring that was not connected to anything at either end!