PJ

Hi all, am after the following for an R33. Can do pickup if from Melbourne and surrounds. -S1 or S2 Auto Dash/auto surround in (good condition) -Boot plastic trim surrounding lock latch in boot -Boot lock -Metal Radio bracket surround -Intake snorkel -Drivers side headlight (Good condition) -Left hand mirror glass or entire mirror if cheap (Glass good condition, rest of mirror any condition) -Catalytic converter temperature sensor - Including cable -Rear view mirror (glass clear) Thanks, James

Just putting it out there, is there any chance we could create a sticky list of jaycar friendly tuners. I know its relatively straight forward to tune, but would feel much better if I didn't have to explain what the unit was, how it worked etc.

Did you cut the injector #1 wire, or just solder onto it? If you cut it, then theres your answer. If not - check boost/injector wires aren't reversed. - remove one wire at a time - at idle it should be doing nothing - what does the display show?

Scary stuff this... I can't understand why a stock untouched car would have one of the cams misaligned, surely it would have been picked up when serviced? The only thing I can think of is if the computer covers up the timing problem by compensating for it. I guess in japan it was ok on the 100RON fuel, over here put it over the edge. Ill turn it one back towards normal and turn the engine through a few cycles.

My cam dot doesn't line up on the RHS! I've attached pick of each of the marks, the exhaust side is 2 teeth out of alignment. Had a bit of a look on the net to see if anyone else had the problem. One person said you can rotate the individual cam as long as it was no more that 2 teeth. As far as i know the timing belt had never been changed, got the car when it was on 56k, its now on 99k. The car has never run well, I have always blamed this or that, mechanics have checked it without finding a problem. It uses lots of fuel no matter what I do. (auto, 3" exh, boost 8psi). Do I rotate the cam, or is there something else I should do? Any help or insite would be appreciated.

I would definitely be down for s1 r33 light (s3 gtr style). As for feasibility, just take one look at the " r33 dirty/cloudy headlight ... " threads on this and many other forums and you will see it would be a massive hit. I have a r33 series 1, its repainted, has a bodykit, the rear on a r33 looks good, the front cloudy lights let it down making it look like an old car, the s3 projector style would make it look much more sophisticated. PLEASE MAKE THIS HAPPEN!

That makes me feel a bit better, thanks. Ill head to jaycar, get the cable and see what happens.

Thanks to everyone who has posted really helpful info, solutions and fixes in this thread. I have an r33 auto, decided to get the fuel controller after reading sidneykids comments. Put it together, tested the fuel controller box voltages and everything was fine. I have one problem, my screen doesn't light up on the hand controller. Like the earlier posts I turned up the conrast level to full, half, and minimum and nothing comes up. Voltage is getting through to it, but no display. Have checked every component on the multimetre and they seem within specs. The only conclusion I could draw was that I have used a parrallel cable (yes they do fit) instead of a serial. Would that have blown the screen on the hand controller? I have tried another actual serial cable, and still nothing. Any suggestions?

That really sucks, you need a baseball bat in your car for such an occasion. You need to know someone who is doing painting at tafe, it cost me $700 for the complete respray including door jams and some of engine bay. They fixed a dent in the bonnet (smash repair section) and prepared all the panels. When u compare that to what u gonna do it is worth it. In terms of colour, look at some of the new lambo colours and also the premium honda ones but they do cost a bit more. See you all in the morning. Berin are any of the other X1k ppl coming?

Hey everyone, was waiting to finally see a thread about us in geelong. I know a couple of you guys on here (absent from X1k) and have seen most of u round. My car was a stockish white r33 gtst until the girl i was partying with one night decided that it would be a good idea to try and smash into something with it... not a happy girl. So while i was innocently sitting at the party my car was smashing into a jeep wrangler. So i had no idea where she went, called the cops to try and find her. My parents call me and tell me my car had bin involved in a hit and run... Anyway the car was amazing not too bad afterwards, i drove it home from the police station after that caught the second person to steal it driving it around. So for the next month or two i drove round with a taped together 33 which is great if you wanna get stared at by everyone. Insurance was gonna be 2k and stuff up my ratings for life so i just started saving. After my friend reversed it off the road at about 120ks and crumpled the rear bar and front again it was time to get things fixed. So i order a kit off a guy on the forum and chucked it on, (trust front bar, 400R sideskirts, trial rear bar) and had that on in its fabulous shade of grey. A month or so ago i managed to get the thing finally painted. Spending ages trying to find a colour that suits it i chose 350Z blue. Before (damaged) - http://www.satelliteinternet.org/skyline/DVC00050.JPG side - http://www.satelliteinternet.org/skyline/DVC00052.JPG front After - (shiny) - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...500/ppuser/3607 I should be able to come, hope to see you all soon. James

Everything is tight, so it must be something that is wornout as u have bin suggesting. More recently i have been having to use much more lock to turn when fanging on the ocean road. Not sure if my rear shock are worn out causing that. But is scary to think what could be causing it. If only i could be looking underneath when it does it.

Thanks, i now how something particular to pull apart, rather than every sensor in the car. Let u know if i make any progress.

I have a check this afternoon, thanks for the ideas

I have a 95 S1 R33 GTST auto, when i first start the car from cold, it starts fine but the idle sits way down, ~400 - 500rpm and sounds like i have a race spec cam in it (the colder the outside temp is the worse it is). It either stalls (virtually never) or slowly works its way back to normal after 30seconds. As soon as i blip the throttle it clears and goes up above 1000rpm before settling down to the normal idle warmup procedure. When driving the car runs fine, when coming to a stop at the lights, the idle will sometimes hunt a bit makeing the car sorta lunge forward. The car is auto, stock everything except for a muffler at the rear and a little more boost (9psi). The 02 sensor was changed about 10k ago as it was stuffed, have changed the fuel filter not too long ago. Any ideas?

I have an 95 r33 auto without abs. When i put the car in reverse and start moving, as soon as I put the brakes on, hard or soft the car clunks somewhere in the front. Can feel it in the steering wheel, could be something in the steering. Im pretty sure my radius rod bushes are stuffed. Any ideas, I down the ocean road most weekends so im pretty worried as to what it is. James

I have an 95 r33 auto without abs. When i put the car in reverse and start moving, as soon as I put the brakes on, hard or soft the car clunks somewhere in the front. Can feel it in the steering wheel, could be something in the steering. Im pretty sure my radius rod bushes are stuffed. Any ideas, I down the ocean road most weekends so im pretty worried as to what it is. James

Can you send me a pic to [email protected]

Thanks for the tips but looking closely with a torch, it was one of the pipex coming off the intercooler that popped off. So glad it wasn't something serious, its bin a long day. I lost the GT badge I just bought :-( along with all the other mechanical troubles.... James

It revs above 2500, don't really have anyone with an r33 that I could test it with (am in geelong). Thinking maybe fuel pump, or tps or something weird. Will have another look at the afm plug and make sure its making a connection. Thanks for the speedy reply.

Today I finished putting back all the bits after changing an exhaust manifold. Went for an initial test drive for about 10 minutes and everything was fine. Came back, left the car running and went to go to the bank, about 30 seconds into the trip I changed from 1st to 2nd manually (is auto) at about 4k revs when it sorta coughed then kept going. It kept on getting worse and was trying to stall, got about another 100m when it finally did. Tried to restart but was coughing and would stall again, tried to limp for a bit but no good. Switched it off and on again, same thing. Checked under the bonnet to make sure everything was still where it should be, reset the ECU then tried again, no good. Holding the throttle steady it still cuts and jumps up and down the tacho. Battery voltage 12.5volts, 3/4 tank of fuel, replaced fuel filter about 12k ago, replaced spark plugs about 1.5k. The car is a 95 series 1 r33 gts25t auto. Any help or suggestions will help, the car is stranded! James

You have 1 what?