overpowered

Angus u are spot on mate, i know the Autronics is a good ecu i just cant find any decent tuners around to do it, i have forked out alot of $$$ for the smc, cdi, boost solenoid and coils to go swapping to something else. I have had people saying the Autronics are known for causing missfire issues and melting pistons, but i cant see this is true with soo many big power cars running them without dramas. 2630gts thanks for the prices, its not a big cost its the cdi and stuff that add up plus rewiring it is a pain (though i would do it myself). decisions decisions

sorry i meant drivability as in cold starting etc isnt a huge big deal, i would like it good but its not something i "need". the rest of the tuning i want good obviously.

read above post about the d jetro, i dont want afm's because i like the engine bay without them lol. i might give wiring up the gtr loom a go again and try a pfc as they are cheap as chips anyway and i know someone who tunes them well. this car is a weekend car so drivability is not a big deal.

SMC version, it has Autotune and all the usual features. Power fc is a pain because wiring in the gtr harness is more hassle than its worth. i have bought a djetro in the past but when trying to wire in the harness i gave up and decided to sell it off and kept the Autronics. I dont like afm's as the engine bay is super clean and its a single turbo so i dont want 2 dirty afms in the way if i can help it

Western Australia so none are easier really except maybe Willall being in Adelaide. I actually havent purchased the new ecu yet and motec was top option because i thought everyone could tune them i currently have an Autronic ecu but tuners are lacking from what ive noticed. So i suppose i can choose the tuner and then get the ecu they reccomend. i dont want AFM"S so pfc is out the question and its not in a gtr so plug in ecus are not of any value unless i wire in a gtr loom. i simply want someone who isnt going to melt pistons when running high boost, and capable of tuning map/tps because a few of the Perth tuners ive seen wont tune it on anything but MAP sensor only and with 6 throttle bodies i hear its a no no. I dont care if the tuner doesnt make huge power i just want someone i can trust with experience and good workmanship.

hey thanks for the advice nismoid, i have actually thought about the tuner liking his own workshop/dyno/tools etc if anything is needed to be fixed on my car while being tuned. plus the cost of me hiring a dyno in my area adds up too. thank B-man i have been recomended Hitman by a friend as well i might give these workshops a ring and have a chat. i am after someone who is willing to be helpful over the phone in the future after the tune if i have any issues without having to fly them back just to adjust the idle or something minor. so customer relations is important. i dont expect them to tell me how to tune or anything just if i need to adjust something simple. cheers

hey everyone i dont know if this is the correct section to post in but i thought i'd get the best reponse here. i have a rb26 setup capable of 650-700hp at the wheels (previously made 605hp on 22psi at last tuner on pump fuel) and im running a motec m800 ecu and im after a tuner who has a high quality reputation for tuning big power gtrs. I dont care what state they are in as i will pay for there flight and accomodation to get them here. i have had issues with melting 3 pistons in my last setup from the tuner because he didnt use knock detection and cost me around $4000 to fix it so i dont want to go through the same thing again. so if u had a choice of any tuner in Australia who would u use? i have a few big tuners on my list including... Croydon Racing Development Tony Rigoli Performance Subzero RacePace Willall Racing Tilbrook any others im missing? anyone with positive stories regarding these and other big name workshops can u please post your experiences u have had with them and also if anyone has negative comments plese PM them to me to avoid any issues on the forums. thanks

same sump as a gtr im pretty sure(well my stagea 4wd rb25 sump was), usually worth around $300 or so, depending on if u got the diff in it aswell. they have 4.3 gears i think which a few gtr owners are chasing.

hey guys just wondering if anyone has weighed a 32 gtr gearbox and tf case and a rb25det 2wd box? whats the difference in weight? also how much does a gtr sump weigh over a rb25 sump? and whats the front 2 axles and front tailshaft weigh in a gtr? thanks

from the US i'd imagine? nice gtr badge on the front grille too

just buy one from nissan they are pretty cheap from memory and i bet they are same as gtr but just ask for a stagea one to be sure. im talking about the rubber boot itself, not the actual cv joint

Hey Daniel thats exactly the info i needed mate, thanks for your input 2630GTS i want the car for circuit work as well so i would rather 4wd option for that purpose as the rb26 i have currently in my current ride has 605rwhp and thats what im going to install in the gtr. gtr's also have ally bonnet etc and better brakes which makes it ideal, and i need a 26 spare engine to put into my current ride to replace this one so all in all its easier and cheaper with a better outcome cheers again guys

i'd be checking fuel pump and coilpack ignitor (if the s2 have one) which is on the coilpack cover near the back from memory. fuel pump is pretty easy to hear if u listen when u turn the ignition on or give me a pm and ill show u what wire u need to put power to, to trigger the pump. check if spark is working by removing the plugs and coilpacks and holding the coilpacks and plugs all installed but out of engine close to the rocker covers and crank it over and watch if they spark when cranking. also check the injectors are firing by removing the CAS on the front of the exhuast cam and spin the shaft around with ignition on and u will hear the injectors clicking as u spin it around. as said also check fuses for fuel pump, ecu, etc. in the engine bay and under the dash

hey guys its a funny idea i know but i want a car suitable for drift and curcuit work in one so im lookin at a 32 gtr and for drift i will be using a rb25 gearbox and gtr sump with the front diff chopped off to save weight and stop the front end being soo heavy. now i want to get rid of the front driveshafts (axles) going to the brake hubs. how do i go about this? do i need to replace the suspension arms etc with 2wd ones or can the shafts be removed on the gtr ones and its fine to bolt rims on and go drifting? please dont tell me to buy a 2wd as i want the option of both, and i know sump off is an engine out job but thats simple ive done it plenty of times in the past any info welcome thanks

oh i forgot the enlarged baffled sump u will need, twin entry fuel rail, fuel reg, fuel pumps, fuel lines and filters/surge tank, exhuast, valve guides, and all the usual rebuild bits like core plugs, oil seals, timing belt. dont forget the gearbox to handle the power

jun 2.7l with 22psi making 605rwhp on pump fuel, its seriously running out of power after that i reckon considering it made 585rwhp on 18psi. i'd say mid 600s or so on race fuel is the limit and my setup uses big big cams and full head porting and supporting gear to push it.

i made 585rwhp on 18psi and 605rwhp on 22psi with a hks t04z on a jun 2.7L and that was with a pretty ordinary tune, and on pump fuel. id say 640-650rwhp in possible with race fuel and more boost but it was starting to run out of legs i reckon. i find the Z is even too laggy and im going down to a gt35 or so because its a pig on the street and who really needs anymore than 500awhp on the street anyway. revving to 4500rpm+ to get it moving is not fun everytime u wanna get into it. i know people say 4500rpm till fullboost aint laggy but drive a 3L or something with a turbo making 500hp with fullboost at 3200rpm and u will understand. 10k for the engine budget is no where near the money whover stated that crank rods and pistons $10000 n1 block if u want to make big power $3500 machining is $1000 head porting $2000 cams $1100 retainers and valve springs $1000 roughly gaskets $350 head and main studs $500 jun oil pump $1200 water pump $300 bearings $300 ati balancer $1000+ clutch $2500+ manifold turbo/s wastegate injectors ecu coilpacks cdi ignition intercooler pods etc etc etc lets just say around $35000+ easy for all the bits u need

use some liquid metal putty to fill the hole (allow room for the bolt though), done it on mine and had no issues and plenty of others have done it. saves welding it and distorting the flange surface if it gets too hot. about a 5 min and $10 job to do it

these are $4654 list price from Nissan new and arn't available anymore, so i think the price is very reasonable, i'd buy it if i didnt already have one good luck with the sale

the computer behind that panel is the attessa and ABS ecu, so maybe the switch deactivates abs for track work or something? though i'd assume the abs dashlight would pop up if it was not working.

remove spare, and back cargo area carpets, floor, rear seats and passenger seat and thats 75kg+ from memory easier to add a 26 and big turbo and push more power

you would be suprised at how much difference there is in handling around corners with high profile and low profile tyres, the low profile are wayyy less prone to rolling around and making the car feel like its on jelly so 17s or 18s with 35 profile etc will be wayyy better than 15 or 16s with 55 profile.

hey im just wondering what are the body differences between a r32 gtst and a 32 gtr? i realise the gtst doesnt have floorpan to suit 4wd transfer case and gtr has aluminium bonnet? i even think gtr has aluminium gaurds? im thinking if i was to get a gtr and put in a rb26 with a 2wd sump and a rb25det gearbox and remove the hicas would it be the same weight as a gtst model with the same setup (rb26 and rb25 box)? i know it sounds like a stupid idea but i have a 26 engine in a different chassis at the moment and i want to build a track/drift car and want the option of making it 2wd and very very light for drift and put a gtr box/front driveshaft/sump in for track work when i need traction. i would also assume the front control arms etc are different? i just think starting with a gtr with better brakes, wider gaurds, etc would be better value considering i need a 26 to put into my other chassis to sell it off. sorry for the dribbling post i just wanted to make people aware why i asked the question cheers

the pits dont know that, u say the engine no. and its starts with RB25XXXX same as the old one then they dont care, they think its the same (which it is anyway pretty much) pits pick up stuff like suspension bushes and steering bushes worn, etc, and it wont take much to cost u $400 in parts if they pick on it. ive paid rego and insurance on my last 2 cars and they havent been on the road for more than 2500km in 5 years+.

yer hopefully, i havent done anything to it for months now, except got the head fixed and now i need pistons and head gasket and hone the bores and assembly and away we go again, it might even be busted by the time cruise time comes :laughing-smiley-014: