overpowered

Hey mate its easy as ive done mine a few times now. for the front end.... undo wheels and remove strut brace in engine bay by undoing the 3 bolts on strut tops as u said, then undo a single nut on the bottom of the coilover and slide the strut out dont forget to take the brake line off the strut before removal rear end.. take wheels off and then take tops off strut tops in the cargo area and remove the 2 nuts on each side and then a single nut on bottom of strut and brake lines and it will come out pretty basic, probably a 1/2 hour job to get all 4 out for your first go... hope it helps mate

easy except its an engine out and sump off job to get to it my jun pump has over 100psi when revving when cold and around 80psi at idle. when warm its about 28psi at idle and 75-80psi at full revs, i have the restrictor in the head also.

good question above, will stock rb26 headbolts be fine for a 400rwhp limited rb26/30 setup?

why do people not reccomend 272/280 cams for the street? i have them and they dont cause any drivability issues at all so whats the downside besides maybe abit of lag, but plenty of top end power?

dipstick blowing out is definately excess crankcase pressure = stuffed ringland on piston or rings not sealing correctly. a blown turbo seal wont push the dipstick out

my mate is making 440rwhp with a single intank walbro 255L unit and never had one issue so they can be pretty good, but for the extra $$ i'd personally go a bosch for extra safety.

get a 2 arm pulley like they use for harmonic balancer removal (except they use 3 arms and are way way bigger) and it will come out easy as hell, ive removed mine about 10-15 times everytime the motor comes in and out so its definately a tool to make it easier, and belting it with a hammer even with the nut on will just damage the nut head and wreck the threads, those ball joint splitters are bloody useless too ive got one and it didnt work at all. if u cant understand what tool im talking about then let me know and ill take a pic of it for you hope it helps mate *edit* whoops just noticed the post is old, sorry ill leave the info for future reference for anyone else needing the do the job

just got a quick question or 2 will intercooler piping that fits a rb26 engine fit a rb30/26 setup in the same car? or will i have to extend the pipes the 40mm or so? can i run the rb30 size head bolts with a 26 head? (this is a throw together engine while i build my other engine on the side so i dont care how long it lasts so if i can get away with 30 sized bolts that would be good)

my equipment goes no where near certain workshops hahah i could let u try it.... but remember all those things u said about me being a workshop whore a while ago

hey thanks guys for the support, that engine will possibly be back in the stagea but not for a while, ill be running another engine combo for the time being. Paul my turbo is a t4 flange (my manifold is from Trust and suited for a t78/88).

Paul im running the 0.81, maybe there is a difference in hks vs garrett versions for power the dyno i used is very convservative too lets just say the car is currently engineless and im planning on building a different setup and this engine go into a rwd track car. Not by choice that the motors out soo quick but some problems happened on the dyno and now the motor is stripped with pistons and rods etc all out. oh i just love cars

stagea, i dont have a 33 gtst lol thats just a decoy for the moderators

new dyno tune, results are 585rwhp on 19psi and 605rwhp on 22psi (didnt rev to rpm limit due to problems so still abit more in it) ill post graph tommorow

2.7L jun stroker, hks t04z, jun high lift cams. 585rwhp on 19psi and 605rwhp on 22psi (the 605hp run we had to back off early so should have more in it) dyno graph up soon

a gtr cradle wont fit in. i got both and the gtr one is narrower