someonestolecc

Here I was thinking there was a disproportionate number of African skyline drivers...

Why anyone would need 300kw in a 2 tonne holden for the street is beyond me... Nice read though

... from racing?

Awesome! I used to have a xw lookalike too. Bummer it got stolen - hope you had insurance. I reckon with my one it never got stolen because it looked dodgy.. I bet they couldn't even open the door lol I love 32 4 doors. It's a pity too because I found pics once of a really good looking one that I wanted to buy... lost them now and definately didn't buy the car White, black bonnet, white.. VIP-ish kit, flare guards (or widebody if affordable), fat dished rims. ...after the engine mods

Awesome I can second the mu project. I haven't used them for extended periods like you circuit guys, but the times I've punished my brakes and they worked for me was 100% (using rbf600). Admittedly I would also say a skyline you'd want better pads too, but I experienced such good performance from my lowest range (or second lowest) project mu pads that I think the higher rated ones in the range would be very good pads.

nismo for circuit, cusco/kaaz for drift!

What compound are the pucks?

SK is right about rear camber arms. I got them because I didn't mind the downsides Silicone grease is your friend - remove their muck (looks like it was done by someone who doesn't know where the lube is meant to go) and spray the rose joint. If it's worn as blind elk said that won't help, then remove them Otherwise I'd keep them till they stop working..

ot but why is your car off the road?

r32's for 40k !! wow

x2 post

Great analogy but I reckon it's the wrong way round...the TT looks like Megan Gale. The Evo looks to me like like some scrumptious up and comer

I have to ask is there anything you can do with the uras ones you can't do with stockies or is the marketable factors of uras ones that they last longer or something?

r31 bogans and eggheads. What's this world coming to... heh

kmart oil in a weight hyundai recommend.. CHEAPEST stuff you can get.

howstuffworks.com

I had my entire cefiro (engine transplant, all bolt ons, all suspension, diff, interior stuff etc) done for $300. No EPA, just sound and visual check.

It doesn't have an immobiliser built in you have to do anything with. If you want to put one on there are wires there you can use. You don't need to hook up the temp as far as I know. So.. in short you don't need to worry and don't have to hook anything up in those 2 regards.

HEHE.. actually yes. Except that the front and rear tyres and wheels are different I wouldn't ask if they were the same hehe I'd just whack on the spacers to maintain close to default offset. That's right - except I don't want to have the original offset, I'd like to increase track... evenly. I don't actually need for you to work out the offset and spacer by adding the sum of the two in order to give me the actual offset of the wheel I just want to know that when I whack on a 25mm spacer on the front and 20mm on theback (for example) that the middle of the front tyre and the middle of the rear tyre are on the same vertical axis (assuming the steering wheel is straight and everything is aligned properly). I should break out the paint diagrams hehe..

Stupid question but t518z spools good on a sr20. Why doesn't anyone use them on the rb20? (Prefer technical answer, not "because it's not made for it" answer )

Thanks for the posts guys All very good points... ... none really answered what I was getting at anyone else see what I'm getting at?

Thanks for your replies guys... I don't mean to sound unappreciative so I guess I'd better re-phrase my question: What size spacers will I need to use in order to change the effective offset of the wheels while also widening my track and keeping the track alignment front to back even? As it stands, because I don't know the offset of the front wheels, I am thinking of using 25mm spacers on the front and back - thereby keeping the same offset variation all around the car. The downside with this approach is assuming that the wheels I've purchased were actually correctly offset in relation to each other. I'm thinking the likelihood of this is high however if there is some advantage gained by moving the 7" (thinner) front wheels outward, increasing the front track in relation to the rear, then I would fit 30mm to the front and 25mm to the rear. Or perhaps 25mm to the front and 20mm to the rear. That are my thoughts so far.. not sure if I'm on the right track (no pun intended) Any on topic answers more than welcome !!

This is EXACTLY what I would like to know. If I was keeping the stock tyres, it would be easy, I would just put the the same sized spacers all around... But with the addition of different sized wheels, not to mention the fact they're different sized front to back makes my brain hide thinking about it

I have an Aussie r31 and purchased some cheap rims, ideally they would have been the right offset, but they were cheap. I need to buy spacers.... so how do I increase my track evenly? Was guessing 25mm for the front and 20mm for the rear. Hopefully, putting the wheels closer to the guards, increase track and let me use my wheels The new wheels specs are: 16x7(?) wearing 205/55/16's 16x8 wearing 225/50/16's Offset for the rear is +34, not sure of the front as the stickers are worn. Technically speaking the rear "fit" with no spacers. The fronts won't fit to my liking, a bit too close to hitting the strut. The stock wheel specs are: ^^ linked to r31skylineclub.com ! (will change link if asked) Will I need to try to find out the front offset before this question can be answered? If so how do I measure it? Thank you