someonestolecc

I'm not sure but perhaps you could put the electronic ignition on it and turbo it? Not sure if those rb30's are the same as the ones we get in Australia but the rb30e engines we get respond well to turbos.

Find yoshiotokio on search - I'll be getting a tune by him as soon as I've installed a turbo in my r31.

Thanks for the info disco - I'm lucky to have you chime in on that. My car is an ausline - so it is the 5 link thing and solid axle. From what you're saying, the fabrication of longer upper arms and the boxes above the floor pan sounds like the ideal option. .. unfortunately I don't have a complex understanding of what you're describing, so I'd do it (the thing has no back seat and won't have anything in the boot etc) but I'd need someone who knew what they were doing supervising. This means it's not really an option As you suggest rear steer being caused by body roll perhaps I can mitigate it by adding bigger sway bars down the path. The thing already has some coilovers in it which have reduced body roll considerably. I'm interested in the sikaflex idea, anything that stiffens stuff up without breaking it sounds good for what I'm trying to achieve. Will the air gaps be visible on the outside of the bush or will they be inside of it? If it's on the outside, when I get my new bushes I can fill it with sika - that's no problem. If it's inside, I guess I'd have to poke it in with a syringe or something? It might be hard finding a place to sell me a needle :\ Anyway, I went to my local sparts and the bushes were (from memory) roughly $125 and $145 (noltec). I reckon that's bloody expensive, on the positive side however the exchange arms were only $5 more expensive or thereabouts. Can anyone get any cheaper? Thanks for reading if you made it this far O_o

There's no objective answer. Personally I'd take a SR in most cases because it howls like a freight train, is shorter, seems to have more torque throughout and doesn't require dropping a gear as much.... it really is the ghetto fighter. I get the impression that the rb20 is a bit of a high society engine, all quiet and refined... and it sounds f**king great! So maybe it gets a run in my preferences in some circumstances Either way they can be both made to go 230rwkw in bolt on mods (maybe add cams for the sr). So.. horses for courses. Go drive both and see which you prefer... oh and if you want over 240rwkw's then the sr20/rb20's don't cut it.. RB25 or other in this case. Oh.. recently CEF11E took me for a spin in his 230-240rwkw rb20 and boy was I surprised - his car was the exception of driving rb20's with no torque under 3k rpm. His engine seemed to be almost (maybe 200rpm) as low-down-torquey as my ol' SR, and as it got on the juice it f**king screamed, was almost like a rb25.

Sweetas. I'll give pedders in Artarmon a ring and see the difference between exchange vs doing it yourself. Thanks guys that's fantastic! Looks like I might have some grip!!

Cubes - I was 'told' that it's hard to get in out, that's why I'm looking for exchange. I don't have a press and I don't see myself whacking things in... am I over complicating it? Is it really that simple? If it is I'll get a bushing kit and a hammer. ... btw what's the drill for? T04 - Thanks for that... not keen on dealing with pedders, spose I can get over it but are their bushes/etc good?

My car does burnouts everywhere - it's terrible (I have a r31 and look i'm not a bogan). Anyway, was told the bush kits are going to be expensive to have pressed in so I'm wondering if anywhere does exchange and where people are buying this from!?!?

I played the demo, didn't really notice any difference than old school tiberium sun.... what exactly is the diff?

Not trying to wreck your thread but you're better off returning it. I bought mine for $40-50 brand new from the intarweb so most people who have access to SAU would also be shopping online.

WD40 and muscle torque. At the end of the day in those cases there's no special thing it's just concentrated force so make sure you're going the right way and heave into it!

No offense intended here but here goes... You can see in the photos you have glaring and hot spots- these are bad and you don't want these, infact looking at the photos again they look really really bad. The light might be brighter, but it's not going in the right spots. Look at your front bar, it's illuminated (it shouldn't be directly illuminated). This happens because the optics in the headlight isn't suitable for the lumens and the light dispersion/characteristics of the HID bulbs. Same as the glowing clouds of glare you can see in and around your headlight source and also the hot spots you can see at the bottom of your pot plants/door in the last photo. In short you can take it or leave it (people do far worse things to/with their cars) but I wouldn't recommend an install of those HID kits into r33 headlights. You can just scrape through with r32/s13/a31 projectors with minimal glaring/hot spots but r33 headlights are NOT at all suitable for these kits. If you are enterprising - for the ultimate HID lights I'd recommend hitting up http://hidplanet.com/forums for how people have done their proper retrofits!

Thanks Halo. Update is this week I haven't done shit because I've had to buy 2 new bolts to hold the tie rod ends in place and I couldn't be bothered fitting them. Still needs a wheel alignment and pink slip which I'll hopefully get done during the week...

How wide are they Nic? The black would look nice with my r31 after you help me paint it O_o

Check your fluid.

anyone? (my mention is tomorrow).

Thanks SKid. Familiar with the theory - just wondering if you have the exact nissan specs I'd only be interested in replicating that, not sure if I would like my own values - wouldn't it be a bit disconcerting ??

I was toying with the idea of a variable resistor but then that would be static, I'm also not convinced it's a safe thing to do. I'm scared of just putting a backing plate on because the Nissan part is really flatly machined, I also don't want super light steering. SKid - was the way you were planning to do it based around replicating the stock HICAS computer's adjustment based on speed?

Not sure if this is a help but I have r31 rear strut tops (just the hats?). They may or may not be the same as r33. If they are and you want em gimme a PM.

I just noticed the new search from the menu with "search this forum" - I've been waiting for that for AAGES wooohooo!! Also the auto picture re-resolution RULES!! ...

Whowa that's nice.. real nice! Thanks for postin man that's awesome!

Thanks salad. Gonna think about using a variable resistor O_o .. or just use a plate.

Well it's answered here. http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?...06128#msg606128 and http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=160188 Looks like I should have continued to use the plate, I double owned myself O_o I might go for an electric solution and use a variable resistor to see if I can regulate it. I'm just not sure it's a good idea....

Hmm what's it rev to? What power at 4k? VLT chipped ECU? Ta

Poor silvia, I want that chassis. Oh well whatever - what tuning are you using? When do you expect full boost by?

How much are Links? PFCs are around $800 aren't they? MRT sell links for 1100... hmm doesn't sound that right to me. I'd hang out for a PFC if the only thing stopping you is price.