someonestolecc

As per the topic. I put a 32 rack into a 31. It's really heavy. I haven't had it wheel aligned but I don't think that would make it this heavy.It's got fluid - at one point it overflowed a little from the reservoir when I tightened one of the banjos up. I have used custom lines - could it be because my custom lines have too larger ID (hence losing pressure?) Would this happen if I had gotten the IN/OUT lines the wrong way round (I matched the large line with the larger banjo hole and so on)? Do I need to plug the sensor thingy to something? When I searched all the heavy steering problems with r32 racks seemed to be HICAS related, and from what I could tell this was because of the ECU needed to be plugged into the HICAS computer. I don't think this applies in my case. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks guys. Turns out it was a non-issue. When I bought my rack I didn't realise I got that part seperately, so when I found it I put it on just to be safe. It's not hooked up to anything though :\ It's in now Oh and if anyone finds this topic and puts a plate on it or re-installs the sensor make sure you use O rings.. nice fat ones that fit well

Hot stagea. Thanks for posting. How does it handle for a big wagon? (Say, compared to a r33 or something?)

I like the new shit... I'm suprised at the usual tray options in full user posting mode on the left... WHO uses those options???? I'd prefer to have the URL and IMG buttons nearby for extra-laziness Thanks Prank O_o

Someone must have had some machining done in Brookvale or Artarmon?

Aren't they the same as r32?

Ok. Installed my r32 rack over the weekend - what a pain in the ass. I also figured since I was playing with the rack I'd put in an alloy spacer (thanks NV). My old one was so sloppy I could move side to side when I grabbed the steering shaft by about 15mm O_o Pictured is the whole r32 setup. I only used the r32 steering shaft from the spacer down to the rack (including the r32 uni joint). I had a bag with the tie rod ends etc that were sold to me (thanks DIF) with the steering rack.. Of course I lost it so I started the job without them. Cut the power steering lines. Took the old rack out, which was easier than I thought but still pretty time consuming. It's a pain getting in to undo the driverside front bolt holding it in :| Before I put the new one in I had to block it up… I don't have a TIG and the damn stuff is aluminium. The thought of threading it didn’t seem like a good idea at the time so I got some O-rings and made a plate up. My plate.. Looks like a ghost face O-rings Fitted And of course as you know it after spending 1.5hrs getting the plate right and a few hours later when it was all in, I start looking for the bag with the tie rod ends etc etc. Luckily my gf's brother finds it and not only is it a box (not a bag), but contains another uni, tie rod ends and…… the proper Nissan thingy that sits on the rack!... I didn't need the plate afterall.. All done from underneath… there were 2 wires sticking out of the back of the thingy so I stripped them and added bullet connectors before it went on the rack to make it easier for myself incase I ever need to plug it up. Does anyone know what the hell the thingy is? I've read that it's measures angle of steering, if so why and what for? I know my cef had a plug that kept the engine revs stable while getting power assistance from the rack, the rb30 in the r31 doesn't seem to care though?? Banjos up close. I'm not afraid to say it took another 2 goes before it was right, first time round it pissed out all the fluid because one of the o-rings had fallen out .. The second time it was because I hadn't tightened one of the banjos enough (damn curved copper washers) and one of the lines on the rack weren't done up tight… I should have checked but really I was happy to have it finished. When I took it for a test drive the steering was really heavy and kind of unresponsive. I can accept the unresponsiveness because it needs a wheel alignment, fair enough (it even has more lock one way than the other.. Haha). … what I'm worried about though is why it's so heavy for steering? - It's got fluid - at one point it overflowed a little from the reservoir when I tightened one of the banjos up. - Could it have air in it? - Could it be because my custom lines have too larger ID (hence losing pressure?) - Would this happen if I had gotten the IN/OUT lines the wrong way round (I matched the large line with the larger banjo hole and so on)? Any help appreciated

Thanks for the write up. It's actually not all that common sense, I would have never thought to use that much dry ice. I realise it's the pimp way of doing it, but do you think you could have used half the amount of dry ice and just cooled down one side of the floorpan, then moved the ice to the second half and still had enough of it? Just wondering cos if it's a $30 technique that's even better Also, did you sand it up after the cleaner pre-painting? No. It's brittle, not at the movies I would however let it "warm up" back to room temp before starting though (not that 88's car is in any state) - just so the metal doesn't go from growing icicles to getting hot exhaust gasses pass by it.

Fantastic. Thanks for the post.. Which year barina?

r31. btw not sure if this has been mentioned but r33's aren't worth that much, so driving it till it dies you may actually get more value out of than saving it in good condition. Opportunity cost of not driving = no enjoyment

Ok thanks that clears that up. In that case what the hell are those holes for?

lol that's it. Either that or they're too stupid to question the system and just think they're serving out justice.

No offense but Honda with Silvia people and the enthusiastic skyline people sounds like a high chance of hooning and idiocy. Someone will have to be proving themselves sikker than someone else. Hope it goes well though

Nothing (I hate external recruiters)

I find King St pretentious.. Just cos I don't wear my latest industrie V neck and girly jeans. I find cockle bay even worse.. must be getting old. Don't mind the restaurants on King St in the daytime tho Nicer vibe on circular quay for me.. still can dress but if you don't you're not looked down on just cos you don't fit what MTV is selling that month (afterall the important thing is how much cash you have). Ha! When I used to work as a bartender years ago monday night would be the only night off so I'd end up there. Seedy lookin but a good seedy haha

Welcome to SAU

Far out nuR that looks great. What a racecar look too.

There's a nice (for a) pub if you walk up from luna park under the freeway carpark thingy to the Kirribili side.. At the shops there are some nice couple of resteraunts and away from the water the pub. If you're already trashed I wouldn't bother going into the city but that's just me.. happy to get trashed in quieter spots On the other hand if you can make a ferry across just hit circular quay for cocktails or ship inn for standard stuffs.

Recruitment.. oh god no :\

Need to get a .5mm machined off my wheel spacers. The guy (ns.com sponsor) I got them from had ones made that are .5mm different from inner lip ID and outter lip OD.... Anyone know of any around the way?

Not being a prick but was wondering... the otomoto website says it's water cooled?

Noice... Wow and 2 ... what a dedicated owner Thanks for posting!

WHAT how'd that happen?

Hey just a quick clarification - someone in my other thread said they don't need to be plugged... possibly cos they go to the rear and so they aren't connected to the same 'circuit' as the PS pump.......... are you sure they need to be plugged? I don't have a welder that's all so if they don't then it makes my life easier.... where do they actually go?

I got an answer I need to plug it in my build thread. What you're saying is that those 2 are the ones that lead to the rear and so they're totally seperate to the ones coming in from the PS pump/reservoir? Cheers