Jem

+1

WOW nick that is one hell of a reeve you're going to pull off if this baby sells.. i could comment but i'm a nice guy and i won't FYI: Car will not be sold with the r33 rims, it will be sold with the stock mx6 ones.. i want my burnouts back!

i dummy fitted a mates 35/40 on my cast low mount hks manifold, but this was on a 25/30, it seemed to clear okay

yeah i've had a similar thing with mine for ages, at first i noticed it would do it after it'd been raining, then it sort of started happeneing all the time.. not sure if it was the master or the slave. about a month ago the clutch box frame thing snapped one of it's spot welds so i had to take it all out and get it re welded, when i put it back in i noticed my clutch has been losing pressure, although i've got a feeling this is down to air getting into the lines, which i've been too lazy to bleed out

there is a wire that goes to the starter solenoid directly under the big main wire that goes to the starter motor, i'm tipping that it's come off

yup, it sure will kill your transfer case

i bought an rb20det complete, basically entire half cut for $450 about a year ago.. that's what i call a bargain

sif the beat ever plays hardcore, it's all brissy way to fast freeform

with the mods you've listed even with the vct failing to engage you'd still be expecting a hell of a lot more than 207 rwhp, and you're also right in that it would leave the top end alone, vct failing to engage leaves the intake cam advanced in the lower rpm, so it shouldn't effect the higher rpm.. perhaps when installing the cams / cam gear the timing belt was installed incorrectly leaving one of the pulleys retarded (as it's still making power down low).. have you tried throwing more ignition at it in the power FC maps? if it is already on the brink of knock then i would say back off but if not it's worth a shot ah well that's my 2 cents, hope it helps

hey guys, i picked up a bare rb25 head with valves, retainers and GTR springs, as i've got an engine that spun a rod and made a nice dent in one of the combustion chambers in a spare engine i've got here.. anyway, i took a closer look at the head today, more specifically at the valve guides and it appears that the first 4 guides on the intake side are different and longer than the rest of the intake side, and are in good condition.. out of the remaining 8 guides on the intake side a few have cracks and chips taken out of them, although all of the guides on the exhaust side are still fine (they look different to the ones on the intake side although i put this down to the different valve sizes).. i'm thinking that perhaps the first 4 valves on the intake side are the only ones in good condition, and the remaining 8 have all actually had the top bit of them snapped off and others had chips and cracks made in them.. basically i'm wondering how seriouse this actually is, the maximum power i'd ever really be putting through the engine in this configuration is 250kw atw and the rev limiter is set at 6500 (rb25/30), and the head is really just an interem solution till i can build up something better should i have new guides installed into the head? if so is there any cheaper solution than the HKS / tomei guides which seem to retail upto $400 a set? also should i have the valve seats machined before i put the head back together? they look to be in pretty good nick and the head came off an engine with good compression in all cylinders.. thanks for your help in advance, marcus

was this before or after you raced the police officer in the WRX

cheers exactly the info i was after, yeah will give nissan a call tomorrow thanks guys

i'm thinking due to the high pressures involved when cold, using gasket goop to make the gasket between the oil pump and block wouldn't be the smartest idea... has anybody tried this before? cheers for the heads up!

just out of curiosity, of all the photos i've seen of this car i can't actually tell, is the car purple or black?

haha.. puckapunyal, unlucky.. better luck with the postings next time LOL