Jem

+1

WOW nick that is one hell of a reeve you're going to pull off if this baby sells.. i could comment but i'm a nice guy and i won't FYI: Car will not be sold with the r33 rims, it will be sold with the stock mx6 ones.. i want my burnouts back!

i dummy fitted a mates 35/40 on my cast low mount hks manifold, but this was on a 25/30, it seemed to clear okay

yeah i've had a similar thing with mine for ages, at first i noticed it would do it after it'd been raining, then it sort of started happeneing all the time.. not sure if it was the master or the slave. about a month ago the clutch box frame thing snapped one of it's spot welds so i had to take it all out and get it re welded, when i put it back in i noticed my clutch has been losing pressure, although i've got a feeling this is down to air getting into the lines, which i've been too lazy to bleed out

there is a wire that goes to the starter solenoid directly under the big main wire that goes to the starter motor, i'm tipping that it's come off

yup, it sure will kill your transfer case

i bought an rb20det complete, basically entire half cut for $450 about a year ago.. that's what i call a bargain

sif the beat ever plays hardcore, it's all brissy way to fast freeform

with the mods you've listed even with the vct failing to engage you'd still be expecting a hell of a lot more than 207 rwhp, and you're also right in that it would leave the top end alone, vct failing to engage leaves the intake cam advanced in the lower rpm, so it shouldn't effect the higher rpm.. perhaps when installing the cams / cam gear the timing belt was installed incorrectly leaving one of the pulleys retarded (as it's still making power down low).. have you tried throwing more ignition at it in the power FC maps? if it is already on the brink of knock then i would say back off but if not it's worth a shot ah well that's my 2 cents, hope it helps

hey guys, i picked up a bare rb25 head with valves, retainers and GTR springs, as i've got an engine that spun a rod and made a nice dent in one of the combustion chambers in a spare engine i've got here.. anyway, i took a closer look at the head today, more specifically at the valve guides and it appears that the first 4 guides on the intake side are different and longer than the rest of the intake side, and are in good condition.. out of the remaining 8 guides on the intake side a few have cracks and chips taken out of them, although all of the guides on the exhaust side are still fine (they look different to the ones on the intake side although i put this down to the different valve sizes).. i'm thinking that perhaps the first 4 valves on the intake side are the only ones in good condition, and the remaining 8 have all actually had the top bit of them snapped off and others had chips and cracks made in them.. basically i'm wondering how seriouse this actually is, the maximum power i'd ever really be putting through the engine in this configuration is 250kw atw and the rev limiter is set at 6500 (rb25/30), and the head is really just an interem solution till i can build up something better should i have new guides installed into the head? if so is there any cheaper solution than the HKS / tomei guides which seem to retail upto $400 a set? also should i have the valve seats machined before i put the head back together? they look to be in pretty good nick and the head came off an engine with good compression in all cylinders.. thanks for your help in advance, marcus

was this before or after you raced the police officer in the WRX

cheers exactly the info i was after, yeah will give nissan a call tomorrow thanks guys

i'm thinking due to the high pressures involved when cold, using gasket goop to make the gasket between the oil pump and block wouldn't be the smartest idea... has anybody tried this before? cheers for the heads up!

just out of curiosity, of all the photos i've seen of this car i can't actually tell, is the car purple or black?

haha.. puckapunyal, unlucky.. better luck with the postings next time LOL

WHOO HOO IM WASTED on a serouis note though the next time you take your CAS off adn turn it with thie ignition on to test for spark DONT *tap* *tap* *tap* *tap* BJOOOOOOOOMMMM

yeah thanks mate, thanks alot if this forum had kudos i'd be giving you some right now

well as a follow up, here's what went wrong the problem started to come to light when out of desparation i decided to pull off the CAS (even though i'd already pulled it out and tried testing it, and the car wasn't getting spark) i flicked it around a few times again to make sure i could here the injectors clicking away as they do - check, but then after giving it a bit of a wiggle and plugging it in again, i heard a bit of a defened boom, i was like wtf was that, thinking a bomb or something had gone off in my street.. then realised the car had been dumping excess fuel into the exhaust system and the coil packs must have been firing to set it off.. anyway so i through the old timing light back on and gave the cas another spin and a bit of a wiggle, and i got a flash so i pulled the cas apart to find bits of metal floating around inside it.. not good, cleaned all of that out, and gave her a good spray with contact cleaner, also cleaning the plug and connecter, as they were dirty.. let it dry and put it all back together, cranked over the engine and BAM - worked first time thanks for your help anyway guys, much appreciated cheers, marcus

chances are the installation of the cooler has reduced the temperature of the intake charge, which has the effect of increasing the density of the mixture in the combustion chamber and now your 10+ year old coil packs are having trouble igniting this mixture. any increase in boost will also add to this problem.. basically your best bet is to wind back the boost a bit and go for a drive, if the misfire is gone, this most likely the cause of your problem, the easiest thing to do would be to pick up a second hand pair of coils from the forums, however these will also be time bombs waiting to go. the best option would be to pick up a pair of split fire coil packs, i believe these are about $500.. i have also heard of people having limited success 'taping' there coil packs up to provide better insulation, and it also never goes astray giving the earths near where the thermostat housing is a good clean, as well as the main earthing straps between the engine and the chassis a clean too.. there is alot of information around the forums on this problem so search is your friend hope this information helps

it's a 93 r33 gts-t

hey, yeah that's it, voltage over 85 & 86 joins 30 & 87, if there is no voltage over 85 & 86 then 30 & 87 are always connected.. basically the 200ma that my alarm supplies to work the door solinoid forward and backwards is not enough current to work it. there are only two wires coming out of the alarm to connect to the solinoid which i think is a pretty standard setup, to work the solinoid one way it suplies a current over these wires, and to work it the other way it inverts that current.. what i'm trying to do is wire in a relay so the solinoids have enough power open and close the door lock.. my problem is that by using a relay the solinoid will only work in one direction, as the relay kills the alarms ability to operate it in the other direction as the change in polarity won't go through the relay.. i think.. i remember seeing a way in a previouse alarm install done by somebody else where they had two relay's wired together to perform this task.. this is what i'm after any help would be great cheers

hey guys, the setup i'm thinking of cosists of two standard horn style relays (as in pins 85 & 86 on coil side, pins 87a 87 and 30 on the high current side), wired together to operate a door solinoid both ways.. tired and just for the life of me cannot remember how to do it, any help appreciated cheers, marcus

yeah that is the ground for the high voltage side of the coil, she's fine.. the ground i'm talking about that measured infinite resistance is the one that runs with the main 12v power source for the coilpacks, it has a capaciter wired into it, hence the resistance readings.. this capaciter i guess serves to block out the DC coming from the main supply wire (all coils run in parallel from this wire that runs straight from the 12V source to earth) and only allowes through AC from the ignitor pack (AC in this case is pulsed DC).. anyway, i don't actually recall seeing this capaciter with my own eyes before so if anybody has any idea's where about's the f**ker actually is, please feel free to let me know

yeah, i've found a circuit diagram at http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c258/dor.../r33english.jpg looks like the way the ignition system works, the coils have a constant 12V into them, and the ignitor pack is a set of 6 transistors, which when supplied with with a pulse from the ecu connect the 12V from the coil packs to earth.. the 12V plug that supplies the coils has both a positive and a negative, the positive has 12V too it, but the negative in my case comes up with infinite resistance every time i measure it between that wire and the chassis, so i'm guessing this is my problem.. now my only issue is actually locating where abouts this is earthed to the chassis, or where abouts the break in the wire actually is :S

i pulled the cas off and flicked it by hand, could hear injectors opening and closing, but still no spark, so i don't believe it's the cas, all sensors read fine - i'm almost sure it has to be something in the wiring or actual igniter pack itself.. the fact it started perfectly twice randomly i think is telling me that it has to be a dodgy earth connection / relay somewhere.. access to the 33 gtst series 1 wiring diagram would help alot but so far i've been unable to find anything in my searches