Beer Baron

wrong for what though? do you understand that is peak value display? so that could have occurred at any point since the car was switched on. if you want to look at the timing values properly you need to look at the map.

guys there is no compliance needed on a personal import. it needs about $800 in paperwork done by an auto engineer and that's it. slap PI plate on and register it. but no way on earth is anyone paying $140K for an 09 model. $120-$125 for that car is more likely. and JDM cars in the $100-$115 range depending on spec etc. given you can literally important anything you want as a PI perhaps consider buying something that is not sold or commonly available in australia? enjoy it for the 18mths in the UK, bring it to aus, sell it and then buy the R35 GTR you want.

lol, yeah it's a bad piece of terminology!

Lol, the whole reason it's called a "dry sump" is because the sump pan on the engine is no longer used to store the engine oil. Hence it being dry. There's just no need and in fact it's detrimental having all that oil sloshing around in there. No point using a 26 sump on your 25 or 30. A fabricator can mod your current sump for use in a dry sump system easily.

well shit happens. i guess it was a miscalculation (so not like you lost control and the braked before hitting it) so you would have hit it pretty hard. everyone makes mistakes now and then, sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you dont.

and if you are keeping AC then it's a road car so for sure Ross probably fine.

well if it's a road car the ross will probably be fine. but for a competition car I'd consider the ATI.

yeah I agree. getting a new muffler welded on to your standard piping and then getting new piping later is a waste of time and money. a new rear muffler won't do bugger all. save a few extra bucks and buy a used japanese system. for $500 you'll get something nice, sometimes you'll find decent used stuff as cheap as $200 or $300 even for a full cat back system. but with $500 you should have some nice options of used japanese cat-back systems. then just bolt it on yourself or take it to a workshop, should be $50-$100 to fit (30min-1hr labour tops).

yeah i've had one mix and match with SS690 synchros and the OS 1-3 gearset. for sure it's not a drag box and not really drag suitable ratios (except maybe the newer v2 ratios) but as I said I'd recommend it for the average 95% street car with the odd 'fun' track day thrown in. not for a competition car. for comp circuit or drag car you may as well go dog box like PJ has or step up again to the hollinger. or hell for a drag car get a 2speed powerglide or a liberty airshifted auto box.

honestly in my experience it's in the ball park. having seen dozens of cars with -5s most often they make between 310 and 340kw at 20-22psi. 353kw on E85 is not bad. perhaps a little low but every car and every dyno is so different as long as it's performing it's not worth worrying about.

yes it will. there has been some serious heated debate over this one and to be honest (just don't tell anyone I said so) I can agree the logical/smart choice is to go 3L so it's the same as the R34 but the 2.6 option has some merit too and it's the way it's going. as far as ancillaries etc go both cars will be almost identical though.

lol, yeah keep the cardigan well hidden mate. for sure the F1 was just insane for it's time. hard to contemplate. I went in one at age 16 in sydney and it was pretty special. ingrained in my memory. I would consider murdering for a serious drive in one.

yeah it's around $10K but you get full 5 gear close ratio box (version 2) with choice of 5th gear ratio from 3 options, ALL gears come with the upgraded dual cone synchros and you also get an upgraded input shaft (can even get it with the hollinger type spline if you want) and the upgraded billet centre plate is included too. and that price is fully built and installed in casing. for other options like ppg and os etc you need to budget at least $1000 for assembley and that's assuming all the other bits in your box (bearings etc) don't need replacing too. for a full dual synchro box, with full 5 speed close ratio, upgraded gears and upgraded input shaft all assembled ready to go it's not too bad. still not cheap by any means but it's probably the nicest box option for a road car that does just the odd track day. you can get the basic version 1 dual cone synchro set with close ratio gears in 1-3 (standard 4th and 5th gear) for half that, but then if you want the optional 5th gear that's another $1,000, billet centre plate, another $1,000, and upgraded input shaft is another $1,000 too. so by the time you buy it and upgrade those 3 bits it's more like $8K. their prices are full installed though too (you exchange your old box). their stuff is very nice though.

fk dude, how hard did you hit it?! must have had some serious pace on.

lol, thread got spicy in a hurry!

you would have to outbid me to get it! same for me. short tail roadie and has to be SILVER too. and yeah it's probably my "if I could only have 1 car this would be it" car too. fairly close race between it, an F40 (would be a cranky road car though), a Merc CLK GTR roadie and maybe one or two others, but I can't help but want the maclaren more. especially considering it's title as fastest road car in the world for years and years. I mean look at the current crop. veyron? yeah it's cool as an engineering piece but it's heavy as all fk, drinks fuel like it thinks you're a saudi oil baron and is just not nearly as sleek or 'clever' as the big mac. i mean it needs something like triple the power of the mac to beat it's long standing top speed record. what's up with that? yeah. 80s/90s 'great' american cars are certainly a small group..... "fking shithouse" and "vomit inducingly ugly" 80s/90s american cars on the other hand is a long list.. and there were some real standouts. and the quality! jesus wept. their stuff was better built in the 60s FFS. I can only assume they spent the whole 20 years from 1980 till 2000 massively drunk and high on coke. not hard to believe if you've ever 'admired' the fit and finish of interior and exterior panels on anything american from the era.

this is an interesting point which gets raised from time to time and i'm assuming you are talking about the rule for clubsprint in WTAC (and guessing this has the same rule) that basically only 'premium' road tyres are allowed in club class with semis only for open and pro. My solution to this is allow semi's in clubsprint (RE55, A050s etc) but maximum of 4 tyres or maybe 6 tyres per car (enforced with data-dots or some such). that's how I'd do it. that way it keeps the cost down for guys in that class but allows them to use rubber they would normally use at the track. and it means most will buy mediums to ensure they get consistent pace over the weekend and make improvements in set-up and driving rather than just waiting for the best track conditions and slapping on another set of super softs.

well carry on then.

agreed, a 80s/90s group A and Group B full set of the road car evo versions would be nice. some good cars in that group. well we each have a start with the 32.... lol hmm, that is a tough question. you know what, I'd probably go with original big mac. I think the proportions just look right and i've only ever been in 1 and it was an original road car F1 in silver. hell, can't I just have one of each? or is that being too greedy? Long tail is tough as nails but the original recipe just looks so right. and what other car allows you to sit in the middle with a super model on either side but sitting slightly behind you so as not to interrupt your driving experience and/or f**k up the weight balance?!?

nothing wrong with ACL bearings. they are fine. gasket wise I'd go with tomei personally. they are excellent. and as far as balancer goes look at an ATI.

i'm going to go with fujitsubo. only because the font on the SR letters looks like the same font fujitsubo use on some of their plaques etc. but then it should have FGK or some other stamp somwhere too.

also good for dropping a skid. yahooo doggie!

here you go marlin. the vette get 'em wet...

oh, and BTW yes lancia delta integrale and the audi quattro also rate on my list. fk it's a long list. I guess I'm just a car nut. I practically love them all. not enough time and money to own enough of them. perhaps need to consider a nicholas cage style gone in 60 seconds type theft spree but I don't think I could bare to steal some poor bastards car. unless it's mr bean and a maclaren F1...

yeah fair enough. in fact probably my favourite 'hills run' car would be a 996 GT3. sound great, go hard and lovely to drive. don't get me wrong a 997 turbo is 'fk me dead' fast but the GT3 is cool. still it's out of my time frame again. lol. the slant nose is just so 80s! can you not picture yourself in one in miami, 1986, summer, you come up to a set of lights in your white countach and there I am sitting in my black 930 slant nose. we exchange knowing looks and then it's on! ok, will give you the vette. i have to say though unlike the japanese and euro makers (who really hit their glory days in the 80s and 90s) the yanks lost some of the respect they'd earned in the 60s and 70s. if we're talking euro or japan, for me it's 80s/90s. if we are talking USA it's got to be 60s/70s for me. there were just so many horrible yanky cars made in the 80s/90s that I struggle to remember any good ones. I mean 60s and 70s stangs, vettes, for GT40 etc all awesome.