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Beer Baron

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Everything posted by Beer Baron

  1. in anyone else wants to know yes it does make a difference. the standard GTR rods have a bend in them. aftermarket generally do not so they use offset spacers in the end to make up for it. have a look at the factory ones and you'll see which way they go. the factory ones have 2 studs in the end, not bolts. so yes the nuts come off but the studs are pressed into the rod. given what those castor rods look like I'd seriously consider replacing the rods ends as they look pretty old and don't seem to have any boot to protect them.
  2. for my money if you have a genuine 400kw at the wheels GTR you should be looking at nothing less than a triple plate. yes singles and twine can hold the power but to do so they need massive clamping force and simple logic dictates they have much less surface area than a multi-plate. that massive clamping force puts load on the crank and on everything else. with more surface area in a triple or even quad plate clutch they can be run with near factory levels of clamping as think of one plate at 2000kg and then think of 4 plates at 1000kg. the 4 plates will hold much more power and put much less stress on other components. with more plates (more surface area) they also handle more heat (power/abuse) and also last longer. so I'd look at an OS Giken triple or quad. NPC also do good multiplate clutches. I also quite like ORC. I've personally used both ORC and OS GIken and happy with both. have not personally owned an NPC but plenty of people I know have and I've driven cars with them. something like this: http://otomoto.shop033.com/p/4145670/os-giken-r3c-triple-plate-clutch-for-nissan-bnr32-gt-r-after-jan-1993.html you can check out the os giken catalogues here: http://www.osgiken.co.jp/pdf/catalog_e.html and then chose where you want to buy if from. ORC triple are like this: http://www.rhdjapan.com/orc-1000f-triple-plate-metal-clutch-kit-nissan-push-type-57305
  3. lol, I was living in an apartment building in surry hills (sydney) and was parking under the building 3 levels below street level and my apartment was on the top floor (lvl 14). If the car was running in it's spot (just idling) I could hear it in my apartment on the 14th floor! the sound travelled all the way up the elevator shaft (I guess) and could still be heard (well felt really). funny stuff. such a sweet sounding rig though.
  4. definitely fix that issue. you could be able to reposition them a bit. just undo all the hose clamps and loosen the silicone joiners so you can swivel them in place etc.
  5. I think you got a good score mate. yeah the bloody time extensions on yahoo auctions shits me. I've been buying off yahoo for over 10 years and lost many nights of sleep back in the early 2000s when auctions would re-extend for hours and hours. ending time would be say 8pm and they'd bloody go until 2am with tiny little bid increases every time extra time was about to finish. drove me insane.
  6. the method he's describing (with disconnecting the air bleed blug and the 5 pumps on the pedal) put the car into a diagnostic/test mode and de-pressurise the transfer case. having said that though I thought there was some physical/mechanical (not hydraulic) pre-load in the 33 transfer case but maybe it is all hydraulic and is all removed doing the procedure outlined above. haven't bothered to play with 33s enough even when I owned them. agree with brad though about using blade connecters and a fuse inline with the switch. that ways it's easy to remove and also easier to install. and yes 100% doing the in-cabin fuse there does disable both ABS and AWD. no you don't need to turn the car off to get AWD back, but you do have to come to a complete stop (then the system self checks. it needs the ABS/wheel speed sensors to be not moving to complete the self check properly, then AWD and ABS is re-engaged). the poor mans switch is just switch the car off whilst car is moving over 20km/h. then turn it back on (still rolling over 20km/h). as the AWD/ABS system can't complete the ABS sensor check it goes into no AWD/ABS mode same as with the switch. good to use at the drags etc as you can pull your burnout etc and as soon as you come to a complete stop AWD re-engages automatically (no need to remember to flip a switch). again this ONLY works in R32 GTR and GTS4.
  7. there are heaps of commercial weighbridges around. just look up yellow pages/google etc to find one near you. cost is about $20.
  8. they're quoting engine power. and again not sure if what they are quoting is 100% accurate. thanks for sharing martin. 09s certainly are rich and the 11 is nearly a full point leaning right through the map. I guess the leaner tune, more midrange boost accounts for the power difference really. the 11 really has a nice hit of boost in the midrange which would certainly make it feel a hell of a lot faster too. ultimate results are not surprising. they have the same hardware and once tuned the same 'software' so getting the same output is no surprise. again, thanks for posting.
  9. honestly if you just want the show and sound factor of big turbo/ext gate maybe look at a trust kit? like a TD06 or T67 with gate? that will make a nice 250-300rwkw and give the looks and sound you want. btw what is a "blitz/trust" intercooler?
  10. nothing wrong with the rotors. mine sounded great snapping from 2nd to 3rd sideways at 8,500 rpm. lol. just ask anyone whose lived on elizabeth st sydney in the last few years. i'm sure they'll all say how much they love it. speak up when you ask though as they are almost certainly hard of hearing. but yeah, noting fancy needed in a rotor. built with the right bits (don't even need exotic seals etc), with the right tolerances and (at least with the late model housings) fairly conservative port work (unless going NA) they make great power and give good service. 13B is the thinking man's RB26... maybe not just coincidence that 13 X 2 = 26 and put the B in front instead of behind and then add the "R" and you get RB26... hmmm conspiracy?
  11. consider going japanese? they know how to make a good rotor motor. had my FD RZ's motor built in japan at a shop called pre-stage. was bloody quick (in build time) and performed very well. Cost was reasonable too.
  12. you been speaking to bernie? that's his plan. have rain sprinklers at the circuit for those days it doesn't rain at least part of the time...
  13. nice one! car looks good and very pleased it passed track test no 1. kymbo, I wouldn't bother with carbon ceramics. they are more suited to road/track cars. for a full on track car much better to go straight to carbon/carbon. with carbon rotors and carbon pads. very hardcore though and need callipers to suit etc. with the reduction in weight this car has undergone factory 380mm R35 set-up is probably suitable or maybe a small upgrade but still with traditional cast iron rotors etc.
  14. nice score! can I ask what it went for on yahooo? just curious as they don't come up often.
  15. i'm sure you'll be happy mate. they're a good thing. should have just bought the rebuild kit though providing flywheel and cover were ok? comes with new plates, new sandwhich plate and new top plate/pressure plate and bolts. you just retain the original diaphragm, carrier and flywheel. cost around $1000-$1500 depending on model.
  16. yes bellhousing is the same as late model R32 with pull type clutch. as far as noise goes most twin plates are noisy with foot on the clutch pedal. it's the plates rattling in the carrier. usually the ATS clutches are a bit quieter as they are carbon fibre plates. I really like the ATS carbon twin plates. they are a great clutch. hold heaps of power and nice to drive. same goes for the nismo coppermix. the OS clutches in general a bit less 'street friendly' but are super tough. I haven't tried the street version you linked but I imagine it'd be quieter and possibly a bit more user frendly so probably a good thing.
  17. is the engineers cert from NSW too? if so then yeah probably will be fine. go to the RTA with the paperwork you have and see what happens.
  18. I reckon something like someone left something under the bonnet and then closed the bonnet on the filters, crushing them and fracturing the plastic inside. the way they all cracked off like that screams damage to me. I've personally run the trust kit on a few of my cars. and currently have the HKS kit on one and never had either type fail. it will almost certainly be ok with new filters. there is one other thing you could/should do. add some mesh to your afm replacement adapter. that way if it happens again the bits of plastic aint going anyway. could even just find someone with a broken afm and rob the mesh off it? cause if you'd had afms this wouldn't have been a problem as they have 2 layers of quite fine mesh to stop big stuff like that getting into the turbo (well and the afm for that matter).
  19. yeah sorry noel. I view in different forum view to you (I think 20 posts per page or something?). but yeah scott above posted it again. my view has this as page 16. cool nismoid. so is this a vic car or have you been to qld.....??
  20. nice progress! you must have a fking big blasting cabinet! or just doing it in the shop with some curtains? I want to come check it out soon.
  21. ok first things first. if it's a track car remove the washer bottle. it's not needed. just takes up space and adds weight right up the front of the car. once gone you also have room for a CAI if wanted. no way will you fit apexi pods in place with the greddy piping and washer bottle. also, as to why your's failed, I'd say they were crushed. like damanged in transit or damaged during install or if second hand possibly damaged by the previous owner. that's most likely why the plastic cracked and broke. so many people have used them on track cars without issue. best choice for replacement: apexi pods. good filter very reliable but quite long. will be tough to fit but possible. K+N pods. fantastic filters and also reliable and easily cleanable. come in many sizes so you might be able to get small ones to suit. or built custom box which will be tough to do nicely.
  22. agreed. I was thinking the same thing when rust was crapping on about all the complaints on fking twitter and facebook or whatever. I was wondering how many have complained about the appalling number of ad breaks in ones supposedly live coverage and if he'd have the balls to even mention it?
  23. yeah I got the impression during the race that the call of 'maintain the gap mark' probably came 2-3laps frmo the end when mark first started to hone in on vettel. and mark didn't acknowledge and just kept on at him. he had one good chance to make it stick but vettel came over on him pretty aggressively and mark (wisely) backed out of it which cost him any chance of making the pass. the real issue is why would vettel risk a crash just to hold up his much faster team mate? come on. he's a little cnt. and yes red bull don't have team orders. well they don't when vettel is passing webber. they only come into effect when webber is trying to pass vettel. it's been that way for 3 years now. thankfully webber has some balls and if he reckons he can get past (despite vettel tending to prefer an accident to letting webber pass him) he'll try it. but for me the biggest outrage was the shithouse one coverage? qualy was bad enough when they cut webbers pole laps short to cram in 30secs more adds in their 5min break. and the race was bloody terrible. I honestly can't see how they could fit any more ads in? maybe banners at top and bottom of screen flogging the brute V8 or gillete razors? forget spamming RBR with 'poor webber' and "horners a cnt" comments. start telling one what you think of their shithouse coverage.
  24. Check page 9 Noel the rb26 results are there for both e 8374 and the twin 6258 kit. Give it 3 weeks and there'll be local aus results. :-)
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