Beer Baron

lol. they should be awesome. Consider this. look at the EFR range and consider the 9180 flows 94lb/min. a single 6258 flows 44lb/min I would say it's not unreasonable to expect them to produce 80lb/min combined in a twin GTR set-up. that's 800hp of air. the car they are going on has run 2530s/-5s and made the usual 350kw or so. it's also run GTRS/-10s and made the usual 400+ kw but with typical surge down low that's a pig to drive through (even on the track). I would like to think these will be close to the -10 power but with close to -5 response. I wouldn't be disappointed if they make a little less than the -10s but without the surge down low and with fat midrange. I'm not sure if anyone else has bought a set from full race for a GTR apart from the one in the US they tested on. so this may be the first 'retail' set that goes out the door. hope to have them arrive next week. The other turbo I got from BW/FR is here and has already been pipped up etc and should be running very, very soon. it's the big boy 9180. another mate of mine has a 8374 coming soon so it'll be interesting to compare the 3. in power terms it goes 8374 then twin 6258 then single 9180. I'm keen to see if that's how it plays out in real life and what kind of power/response compromise we get. the only difference really is the 9180 is on a 3L the other 2 are both 2.6.

meh, the 30 is always going to make more power sub 5,000 rpm but 5,000-8,000 I reckon the 26 will make at least as much. when you're up it there's not much time spent sub 4,500 or even sub 5,000 in a GTR. if it's a track car and you take the 26 to 9,000 (which is easily done with just some valve springs really) then see how the 2 compare. don't get me wrong. I like the 30s and they have their place. for certain applications they are better than a 26. but not in ALL applications. both engines have their ups and downs. don't forget as well daniels engine is a fairly basic 26 build. pretty much blueprinted, N1 type engine with mild cams. I'm sure with headwork etc it could probably make even more. but shit who really needs more than 400kw atw????? it's a road car after all and a fking nice one at that. it's not just the 400kw, it's the fact it's a 1 owner since new Nur, low kms, immaculate body and interior, and all the nice bits like big Alcons front and rear, hand made midori titanium exhaust and on and on the list goes. *sigh. such a nice GTR.

yeah the segment is a bit down compared to 15 years ago but there are still some good ones if you are willing to think outside the box a bit. golf R or GTI are great. scirocco R or GT also great (even better than the golf). 370Z is one. pretty good but aftermarket is limited. hmm struggling to think of many others right now but even stuff like RX8s can be fun with the right bits. the obvious ford XR6 make a pretty rapid highway type car but not as much use in the twisties or circuit but for drag and the odd blast up the freeway they are good stuff.

well I have some news. have a set of 6258s for a GTR on the way now. Full kit with full race manifolds, twin 6258s etc. This particular car has run -5s and -10s so it'll be a great comparison. I'm hoping for -10 power with -5 driveability.... I think they'll deliver but there's only one way to find out..... bear in mind they are quite a bit of airflow. 44lb each is a lot of powa for a little 2.6L engine....

thanks kiwirs4t. pricing is about what I expected. even power FC hand controllers are like $600 AUD retail... so it's not far off what I expected.

yes of course you can. firstly you need to find out if the car you want is on the SEVS list.' if it's on the SEVS list you then need to make sure someone has compliance for it (not all cars on the list have workshops actively complying that model). then you need to ring said workshop and find out if they have plates available and are willing to comply one you import yourself. if those 3 tests are all positive then you can look for a car. however you like. with a broker/exporter, or importer or whatever. BUT I would advise that before paying ror a car you show as many pics and info to the complying workshop as possible and ask them if they'd be happy complying it. you don't want to get a car here and then have it refused compliance due to damage etc. if they are fine with it, buy the car. as soon as you've paid for the car get the export certificate. give it to the workshop so they can apply for the import approval. do this asap. arrange shipping. when car arrives arrange customs clearance. deliver car to compliance workshop. they comply car and get plate and then plate the car. now you can get it registered. all done.

bubblegum...

get ya hand off it roy!

nice one mate. nearly 200kw @ 4,000 is not bad and 330kw at 5,000 is awesome. it must be hauling arse from about 4,000 upwards. I'll bring the 32 down soon. mine has slightly bigger cams, bigger exhaust, 2530s, HKS manis vs your tomei manis but otherwise our set-ups are similar. if mine cracks 400kw at 21psi I'll be over the moon. and then see what it does on 25psi!

good man. yeah cutting grommets for 1 little vacuum hose or wire is nuts! there is plenty room.

agree completely. I don't have proof but have asked GTR 'experts' in japan about this years ago. at low-mid RPM stock water pump outflows an N1 pump by quite some margin. personally I would only use N1 water pumps on circuit cars. some people also run oversize pulleys AND an N! pump which makes it even worse. my 32 track car has a beautiful sard triple core radiator, still has stock shroud and clutch fan but with the N1 water pump getting stuck in traffic in 30degree heat sees water temp starting heading north rapidly. not nice. definitely for a street car a standard 26pump is the go. or if using the N1 pump consider doing what you've done and run an undersize pulley to give it some rpm, and then perhaps swap it out for a bigger pulley for track days where it's going to get sustained high RPM. it's only a 30min job to change the pulley.

I can't see the pics. don't use facebook. but I assume you are talking about the fuel dampener and the fuel reg. fuel reg is on the end of the rail and the dampener is usually on a piece of hose? you'll see only one actually has a vacuum source from memory. that one is the fuel reg.

what's retail price on a displaylink?

nice. what were the old 35s making on your mainline martin? I know on our DD they were around 280-290awkw dead standard and it varied a little car to car. 313kw is a decent number.

I like it. looks very neat. and definitely has that ferrari flavour to it. but in a good way, not in a cheap rip off way.

great news. first fire up is always a big milestone. and as others said my god it's come around quickly. well done.

well he is trying to shield his eyes from the other blokes arse!

the HKS kit is a bit expensive but I've NEVER known someone who bought one and was dissapointed in an RB25. they come with all the little bits taken care of, fit very nicely, are super reliable, hit hard like a train and just basically do everything you expect. they are more expnesive and these days there are other good options but if you don't mind paying a bit more for piece of mind then the HKS GT-RS kit is a good one.

well if he can do it soon enough then we'd have 2 aussies at RBR. that would be nice. not sure I see it happening though. anyway, looking at webbers stats these days he's actually having a pretty respectable career. hey he now has stats nearly as good as rubens despite having only contested half as many races!

dunno. if you mean slow and CRAP car then yes. but just slow I don't agree. for example. I can take a civic. just your basic run of the mill mummy version with a 5spd and drive it about 90% of it's potential. say mark skaife can do 1:12s at wakefield in it, I could probably go out and do 1:13s. now put us both in a V8 super car. Mark is now doing 58s and I'm doing probably 1:05s. big gap. I always maintain it's easier to drive a slow car fast than a fast car fast. you see people driving some weird car at a trackday doing a time that seems respectible for that car and people go WOW! what a great driver to get a 2min flat at EC in a R31. and the poor bloke in his 911 turbo who's doing a 1:40 is getting no love cause it's all in the car supposedly. put the R31 driving hero in the 911 and he's probably slower. just looks good driving a shit car to it's limit which is lower and much easier for mortal man to find and then drive within.

clowns. good buy for $550 and in fact I may have bought it for one of my GTRs. not at $1000 for an early model though...

yeah I think wheel size and offset is ok, but would run a 275. 285 is too big.

yeah you can remove the helper springs. all they do is keep the main spring captive under droop (ie when the shock is extended the helper springs ensure the main spring stays up against the top spring perch). removing them 'might' cause you some spring rattle if the main springs are too short and may at worst cause the springs to drop off the upper perch under droop and then not re-seat properly when the car comes back down. doesn't often happen but it's possible. in your favour though plenty of people run without them. personally though, I would leave them. they do have a purpose.

sadly a lot of it has to do with how you look (your appearance, your nationality, how many people in your car, your clothes etc). cops will see you driving and form an opinion very quickly based on what they can see and hear. they will also check your licence and record (including any criminal record). once pulled over how you behave then also partially dictates what happens. if you are polite you are in with a good chance. if you're worried and obviously shitting yourself not so good a chance. if your rude or confrontational.... well you get the idea. the car itself is the next indicator and I'd say the car is actually secondary to the driver. but the big ones on the car are wheels (big chrome wheels and/or bald tyres scream pull me over). next is exhaust, both size/type of cannon and the sound. if you like your car to be L O U D then prepare to occasionally get grief. engine bay is probably the least important. generally if they have you at the point of making you open the bonnet they are at this point dead set of finding something. so regardless of whether your car is off it's tits with a high mount or bone stock you are going to cop something (see steveo getting done for an airbox above). so actually worrying about what's in the engine bay is my last concern. it's all the other stuff that gets you defected. what's in/not in the engine bay just makes them easier to clear later...

lol, i'm reading that marko thinks he can take steve-o in a bout of greco roman wrestling... happy to referee if needed... just don't fart when you are locked in some kind of gay choker hold. it's not polite and will get you disqualified. and no john hoppa type finger pointing pls. this is what I envisage. marko v steve-o. who can tell where one man ends and the other begins? beautiful it's own disturbing way...