Beer Baron

1465 wet without driver is actually not too bad mate for a car that is caged with track set-up brakes etc. at least you're man enough to weigh the thing and publish the number. so many people swanning around saying "my car weighs about 1200kg cause I took out aircon and the back seats" are living in fantasy land. the sad thing is that people hear it and then think "well fk me I want my 32 GTR to weigh 1200kg too". and then go and try to actually do it not realising just how bloody hard it is to get a skyline down that far.

well done jason. that is some serious speed on the loose stuff mate!

lol, no shares in dunlop but I've always liked the Dz03G over most other semi's overall. and I reckon of the "S-tyres" or whatever we call this new segment of super high-po street/track tyres, the Z1 seemed to me to be the best compromise between street/track/grip/noise/wear/cost etc. the RSRs are great too though. I'd say the Z1 sidewall is on par stiffness wise with the AD08. having said that on track they did seem to like higher than normal pressures which may indicate they are a bit softer in sidewall. they were great around 35/36psi hot but when I dropped them a bit down to more semi-slick like pressures they seemed to suffer a bit. the main reason I rate the Z1* over AD08 and AD07 is they are a shitload cheaper and I thought they were a bit better too. don't get me wrong, AD08s and AD07s where one of my favourite road tyres till i used the Z1*. and they are still well up there.

d;oh! damn auto-correct. anyway evo looks like it will be gone on sunday. so anyone who is interested you have 1.5 days to make a move!

well before you go out and buy one PLEASE go and check what's in someones mainline or dynodynamics dyno! I honestly have no idea what load range their load cells have. i purely guess it would be within the range of the cell you linked. i'm sure most workshops will let you pop a cover and take a look. they are not particularly complicated machines inside. or ring mainline or DD and just straight out ask them what their load cell is rated to and why type it is? I have looked at them before and very sure mainline use an S beam but please check the specs!

well from what you are saying and the ID tag and the 10 blade turbine it seems like they are 2835s. but considering how awful they are even in external gate form they are going to be even worse in restrictive tiny, low mount internal gate housings. they will be laggy as hell and with the smaller housings you will be loosing top end potential too (compared to the ext gate high mount versions). the T04Z idea is a bad one too. they are old tech, rubbish turbo. they are just not a well matched combo on a RB26. the GOOD options are: twin 2530s or -5s for street/track/drag twin GTSS -7s/R34 N1s for street/track or if you want single look at some of the borgwarner offerings, or some new tech garret stuff. there are much better singles than a T04Z.

yeah it's a complete replacement ecu which means once you remove the factory ecu the car no longer has the anti-theft capabilities. easy way for fkers to steal R34s I guess... the stock nissan security is pretty weak anyway. but yeah it's no biggie to swap between 32/33 and 34 type wiring/ign/ecu set-up.

yep agreed. and the biggest reason all the other box options are compromised is that they are designed to fit into the standard housing which has flaws of it's own. even once you buy all the new shafts, centre plates etc there is still factory parts in play and they cause dramas. it's good money after bad. buy the hollinger and never look back! dave, I'll leave your post but have to edit it a tad inline with forum rules. sorry mate but it's the way it is. it's to protect the forum owner who is a private citizen and does get threatened with all types of lawsuits over forum content.

I like the idea of cockpit rules though and perhaps raise min weights so that fat drviers aren't penalised! lol. i'm sure there's some talented fatties out there... would surely help webber to be on an even keel weight wise with vettel. he is giving away probably half a tenth per lap in body weight penalty alone.

yeah agreed. 3l turbo and 8L na is waaay too big. get them to make a max 1.5L turbo or 3L na as the maximums. they can easily get 800hp-1000hp from either 1.5L turbo or a 3L v10 NA so then they get to chose reliability (800hp) or power (1000hp). or spend more and have both! if really generous up it to 2L turbo and 3.5L NA. that is plenty.

good point. I figure if I up my alchol consumption by about 30% I will soon forget all the WDC results from 1985 to 2000 and I can then just re-warch those 15 years of F1 over and over again...

yeah they are definitely sportier than the equivelant golf, but from memory JAS has a diesel golf anyway not the turbo petrol so it'll be a fairly different animal anyway. with the upgraded diff etc those sciroccos has so much grip it's not funny. you would really have to try stupidly hard to overcook one enough to crash it. you go in too hot and it just pulls you out of trouble. they are a great ring burner. after spending a few days driving the scirocco and a fwe other cars at the ring last year I have seriously thought about importing one now that we have compliance on them in aus. you would think they are just a different looknig golf but that is selling them short. very cool car.

I used a set of RSR's at the nurburgring nordschleiffe of all places! they were pretty good for most of a lap but went off if you pushed it too hard and got a bit slipper. bearing in mind the ring is 20odd kms long and fast as fk! seems like a good deal. I still reckon the dunlop Z1* are better though and are similar money in that size from tirerack.com.

dude, no way would I spend $1500 X 2 on new cores for those. did you see what the big dady 2835 kit just sold for on ebay? $2K and that was for the big 2835s, with twin 60mm HKS gates (cost $1000 each new), twin HKS manifolds with the bridge (hard to find these days) and all the other little bits. that would make your turbos worth about $1000 second hand for the pair. spending $3K on parts + labour (so say $3500) to repair them is nuts. for $3500 you can get a brand new pair of HKS 2530s which are the perfect turbo for your needs. or even cheaper spend $2800 on a pair of garret -5s.

mainline use an S beam load cell from memory. not sure on it's rating though. i imagine it would be similar to the range of the cell you linked. pretty sure dyno dynamics is the same too with their load cell.

most likely spring is too weak for your application. hence you are getting a form of 'valve bounce' in your wastegate as the diaphragm and spring struggle to control the valve at higher pressure. fit a stronger spring and it should help. it really should't be starting to open at 2psi. does it have another port on the gate housing so you can add pressure to help keep it shut(basically equalises pressure on both sides of the diaphragm so it won't move till the boost controller starts bleeding air).

I don't think they are 2835s mate. look more like 2530s. 0.64 rear and 0.60 front..... says 2530 to me. they also look fairly small pysically. they could be some other combo but look nothing like the 2835 kits for GTR. the HKS GTR spec 2835s are completely different and in GTR kits are twin external gate. they also don't have the two bolt standard type inlet that yours have, they have a larger inlet that takes a silicone joiner. same goes for the outlet, either a joiner or a pipe welded straight on.

no, the Z32 afm's will not bolt on to the stock airbox. the spacing of the 4 holes on the end of the AFm that bolts to the airbox is different. you may be able to make them fit by drilling new holes in the airbox and using bolts to hold it. far better option is just buy the nismo afms. they are not that expensive. about the same price as GENUINE Z32 afms if not a bit cheaper. the nismo ones will fit perfectly to your stock airbox and stock intake piping.

yeah it's the way to go. maybe try and get a scircco from rent racecar. being a golf man it will feel like home. they are a quick little bus around the ring. lots of nice upgrades in them, roll cage, endless brakes, KW suspension, I think they have some kind of exhaust too.

you can just rock up and get something but you'll be at the mercy of whatever is available. considering you are going around a grand prix I would book something (or try to). also you need to check the track shedule. there are not many full day tourist sessions these days. track is often booked by manufacturers for testing, booked for races, booked for private track days and it's closed a good part of the year due to weather so you need to make sure it'll be open on the days you want to go. even then there is no guarantee. it might piss down with rain or snow, or they may be many accidents that keeps shutting it down. try rent racecar. they are a good outfit. having tried haus marvin, RSR and rent racecar now I'd say they are up the top.

you will have a ball mate. there is no question. just remember you are not going to re-set the megane track record on a tourist day (let alone your first time) so just take it easy, don't worry about your times too much. just enjoy the track, and for god's sake keep it safe. it's a track that has very little run-off anywhere, has armco all round (which they charge you to replace if you hit it) and it's very high speed in many places. add in plenty of blind corners, and plenty of sections that look the same but aren't and then add a few hundred other drivers and motorbike riders varying widely in skill and attitude and you can see why some people come to grief. don't be one of them!

certainly in my experience wheel selection (and their comparative sizes/trims to each other) has many, many times more effect on turbo response and spool up than the type of bearing used. bush type bearings work fine. they operate on a film of oil and spin very freely when oiled properly. sure they don't have a water cooled housing but as long as you use good quality oil and keep it in good condition i've not seen any effect on turbo longevity either. if anything I think the bush type bearings seem to be more robust than some of the ball bearing cores which seem to damage easily. as far as why did BW go to ball bearings for the EFR turbos? I would say market driven. They are marketing these products as new gen technology and aimed at high performance and motorsport applications. so to help shed the image of basic but stout turbos they added features to hammer home the high tech aspect. personally I'd be just as happy using one regardless of bearing type. as you said the big disadvantage of ball bearing cores is they cost a shitload more to buy and a shitload more to repair/replace if something goes wrong.

the turbos you want to switch to are HKS 2530s or Garret -5s. much better option even on the most finely balanced RB26 in the world.

oh and to the bloke that asked yes they can and do sit slightly proud. up to you to set the right deck height and chose the right thickness gasket to get the right CR and also to ensure they interact properly with the squish pads but don't hit valves or anything else. not always just bolt them in and whack it together. you do need to do some measuring.

I dunno? it made perfect sense to me. -15cc dome top piston means take 15cc off your chamber volume...