Beer Baron

yep, the new HKS ones are kick arse. not really new anymore though. I bought my first set about 3 years ago. they used to call them the drag front pipes and the others were just the normal ones (twin 60mm like everyone elses). they are expensive but when you get them you can see how and why they are better than the others.

yeah the jap cats are super expensive but they do work very well. seen mega power through various jap cats. sard ones seem to work very well in particular.

it's as simple as this really. factory pump factory sump. aftermarket pump? aftermarket sump. a high flowing pump will empty your stock sump in a matter of seconds. literally. and with much less oil flowing back down it doesn't take long for the sump to run dry. so if you want to run a jun pump, you need to get an enlarged and baffled sump. I've had no problems with trust sumps on 2 of my GTRs and the hi-octane sumps seem to work very well too. I'd buy one of those. as far as balancer goes I'd either spend a little and buy an N1 balancer, or go for top of the line which is ATI.

honestly if you want a bov just get one. maybe start by getting a pod filter as that will make the factory bov much more audible. if that's not enough get a metal intake pipe (from pod to turbo inlet). both those mods actually have benefits apart from increasing the sound so at least you're not wasting money. if that's still not loud enough for you, then either remove the stock BOV and have nothing (lots of flutter noise on gear change) or buy your preferred trust/hks/blitz/arc/whatever bov and enjoy. don't expect many people here to understand why though, but I remember what I thought was cool when I was 18 so I won't bag you.....

the hi octane kit seems to be pretty good value for just over $8K. still a bit to spend in terms of lines and not sure if it includes a balancer (another $800-$100) but considering all the gear is brand new and it inlcudes 4 stage pump, fittings, sump, bracket, drive system etc it's not too bad. proven on plenty of cars these days too.

1:28 is bloody hauling!! even on slicks.

well hamilton is of the 'playstation generation' where do you reckon he learned to drive? has problably never had to even shift gears by himself. lots of skill as a driver that he just doesn't have by virtue of the fact that he's relatively new to the sport. guys like michael schumacher have infinitely more skills than the new young guys like vettel and hamilton. BTW how good was it to see schumacher actually driving well for once? the footage of him in Q3 I think it was was spine tingling. the car was mega loose and through the fast chicane it was like he had to line it up 50 meters before the apex and then just hold on and see where it ended up. masively sideways on the way in and again at the change of direction. yet still inch perfect to each apex and each barrier on exit. he is finally clawing back some of his old self. and his move on hamilton was almost schumacher-esque. or maybe hamilton-esque? lol... hamilton tried the same move on massa but without any of the skill schumy has he ended up nerfing massa into webber then griding down his sidepod all the way round the hairpin till massa as a result ended up wide in the tunnel which due to the dirty track sent him further wide and into the wall. but of coruse hamilton had a whinge about that too...

I'll believe it when I 'hear' it. hamilton not whinging is like a fish trying to breathe through it's mouth instead of it's gills. just not natural...

agreed. his RBR pitstop fk up left him down in 14th where as vettel came out in 2nd or 3rd..... he did bloody well to get back up to 4th and thank god he finally put the move on kamikaze kobayashi to get 4th place. yeah hamilton was shithouse. his move on massa at the hairpin was highly dubious at best and downright stupid at worst. he then pushed massa wide who ended in the wall. that wasn't enough so he nurfed maldonado as well. and in fact he really caused the red flag accident too. it was homoton who slammed on his brakes mid corner that caused (whoever it was) to run into the back of him and caused petrov to crash too. and then the little fker escaped that scott free too. granted sutil was all over the place in front of him with a probable puncture but all homoton had to do was steer around him, not park it on the apex when there was 8 cars behind him! knob. and LOL at longhurst trying to KO morris through his helmet. you'll need more than fists of fury to achieve that tony.... nice to see a bit of passion though. especially since that accident looked like longhursts fault as he steered into morris on the straight causing morrisis wheel to turn into him causing them to get pushed off into the wall. funny as hell none the less.

yeah, changes cannot be retrospective so any car currently log booked is ok.

wow, good to see another R35 going to the next level to take it to the hardcore track R32/33/34s out there. It should have some serious pace judging by the spec list.

for all intents and purposes you cannot import an R35 to australia for road use so forget it. I have imported, complied, registered and driven (and since sold) my own Jap Import R35 GTR but that car was ordered in 07, delivered in 08 and imported that same year. As someone mentioned above R35 GTRs where only even on teh SEVS list as low volume new. meaning any car to be eligible for SEVS (compliance) must be bought new from the dealer in japan, must have less than 200km on the clock and you must have the invoice from the dealer (not from an auction house, private sale etc) to prove it's a NEW car. The chances of you finding a brand new 2008 or 2007 model R35 GTR sitting at a dealer in japan right now for sale with less than 200kms on it are realistically zero. On top of that there was and is only one place in aus that had compliance. Cost of compliance is approx $20,000 and I'm not sure if they will still do it. Any JDM R35 you see on car sales was imported back then. By my guess there is about 30 of them in aus. You can buy one and save some money. For the other questions. No you cannot use the JDM GPS in aus. never. you cannot load new maps etc. it just will not work simple. The 180km/h limiter will be in force too, but it's very easy to remove. HKS make a thing called the VAC (had one on my car) that removes the limiter or even better just buy a COBB AP which removes the limiter and allows other maps etc (also used one of them). Yes they do have a better resolution screen than aus models. they also have the hardcore full monty launch control which lets you launch at about 4,700rpm. yes a fair bit of stuff is in japanese. There is no real advantage in a JDM car these days. The aus cars are now newer spec with some minor improvements (and some questionable cosmetic changes...). so no, there is no holy grail cheap R35. if you want a good one you'll need to pay around $130K for a used one or $180K for a new one like everyone else (in aus).

awesome. can't believe I didn't see this before. it's something many people have thought of. wanting to relocate RB26 engines but being hampered by the fact that the diff and front drive shafts are in the sump and so if you moved the engine you'd end up with either some crazy driveshaft angles at best and an undriveable car at worst. very nice solution indeed. excellent work. I'd love to hear how it's going these days?

yeah it would be nice to have readily available 03Gs or RE55s or A050s in 20 inch sizes for R35s and lambos etc. plenty of guys getting serious with these cars that are being knobled by tyre availability.

yeah agree with the other guys about the cum-ho's being the same as toyo in that they work really well on lighter cars without the massive power but on the big brutes like GTRs with 1400+kg and 400kw+ they suffer. they might be great on the lotus but those things weigh bugger all like 800kg or so from memory? and have maybe 300kw? the only real way to find out is try a set and see. it's an expensive lesson but given the effort in your build probably one worth learning for yourself. I remember driving the 35 on track at OP and being shocked how much slower it was on R888s compared to the factory tyres (either the dunlops or bridgestonss). it was much more oversteery, and much slower over all and had much more roll courtesy of the sidewalls not coping with the weight.

agreed troy. homotin is a whiney little girl. even worse he's teachers pet. he loves latching on to the stewards arses and sucking hard has he can... "I just hope that the stewards are wary of it, and I'm sure they'll do a great job of it." oh pah-lease. like he's pleading whiney radio calls on his team radio "chaaaaarlie, can you do something please" such a whinger. I don't remember him ever being anything OTHER than a cockhead. he can steer ok but his idea of his talent doesn't really match the reality. he has walked into a car that since his very first steer of it has been in the top 3 cars on the grid in every year he's raced it. he should have had 3 WDC or more by now.

nup he made the right choice. I have a fair bit of info (that I can't share just yet) on 6255 v 6258 vs 6758 but I can tell you the 6258 is the gun set-up in that range for what he wants to do with his SR20. All three have their optimum applications I'm sure but for that I think he's made the right choice. I am thinking about trying a pair of them on my 2.7 GTR currently running twin HKS 2530s...

R32/33/34 attesa is the same mechanically. 34 transfer case is a little different from memory in that it fits to the getrag box but I'd have to look at one again to be sure. but they are still basically the same thing. you can transplant the ecu etc from a 34 into a 32 just need to know the right pinouts etc to get it working. I've seen it done in japan in a 32 with 34 attesa and 34 abs too. if you want to go the whole hog you can buy a 34 getrag and transfer case, put that in, then get all the sensors and ecu's needed to run it. might as well go 34 ABS while you're at it and maybe add a 34 engine ecu and cas etc so you can basically have 34 driveline in a 32. then you could easily add the MFD too. would be nice to have 34 ABS/ATTESA and MFD in a 32.

I bet I know which car is making you change your mind...... good luck either way. and I can see why it would be an attractive option.

it's not likely to be the clutch mate. putting a single plate in is a dumb idea. if you still have stock 4th gear and stock synchro's then you need to look at replacing them with new ones or upgrading them to a 1-4 gearset. I'm pretty sure PAR make a 1-4 gearset. having said that you shouldn't be having this problem. plenty of people are running around with 400kw on standard boxes and can shift 3-4 at high rpm. so there is either something wrong with your driving/shifting style (possible) or something wrong with the box. Could be a selector problem (3/4 selector is a common failure), could be synchro problem (they are fairly robust though). either way you need to get it checked out. firstly though I'd get someone in the know to have a drive and see what they think. then get it pulled out and pulled down to inspect. expensive but it's the only real way to diagnose the problem.

yep the only way to find out really is dip your toe in the water and go to some dealers and ask them.

plug looks good. now just make the moulds you want and start popping out carbon dash-babies. success!

lol, not sure how it got stickied? finger slip maybe? fixed now, back with the riff raff.

awesome build mate. good to see a young bloke not afraid to get in balls deep and give it a go. I know at 21 I wouldn't have gotten anywhere near that result mate. you should be proud.

I recommend splitfires.