Beer Baron

scary!!!

blasphemy! newman/berry's 32 doesn't sound like arse! and no screamer pipe on it either. it (was till it cracked last year) a GT block, tomei 26 crank, dry sump running twin 2860s (and making about 700hp). yeah it did run open side pipes but it sounded fantastic. berry's 34 with the RB30 in it sounds mental too but it's a different sounds and to my taste the 32 with it's 36 sounded better. agree with you on the sweet RB note at least. I don't wear my cap backwards and I don't have a screamer pipe on my cars! I like good exhaust note as much as the next bloke. probably more. not just nissan in-line sizes either (though they are a magical sounding engine when done right). anyway, I'm not arguing the 30 has it's place and makes a good combo. just some people have a 1 sided idea of the 30 being the greatest gift to motoring since fluffy dice on string. people need to understand added 400cc to a RB26 doesn't suddenly make it a super fantastic engine does everything. yes it has some advantages over a 26 in a few area, but it also has some negatives too and they come as part and parcel of those advantages. you can't have it all.

well it's no wonder they call themselves ovaboost. if they can't measure boost on the dyno I guess they would have some trouble setting up EBCs nicely..... jk.

couple of points (this has all been covered before btw). there is no difference between 34 vspec and 34 non vspec engine wise (or turbo wise for that matter). same goes for 33 V-nonV. 34 engine vs 32 and 33? cams are different, 34 cams slightly longer duration and also the CAS drive on the end of the cam is different (so for 34 cams you need 34 CAS and so on). coolant pipe on intake side of the block is different (easy to swap). heater hose pipes on rear of the block are different (again easy to change) diff ratio is different (easy to replace the whole sump with a 32/33 sump or your old sump) ignition set-up is different with 34s having ignitors built into each coil-pack (32/33 have same set-up with ignitor mounted at the rear of the coil-pack cover) there is no difference in how manifolds fit up on either intake or exhaust side. no difference in engine mounts either. you can easily fit any RB26 engine into any model GTR with very minor stuff to address.

bingo. I can confirm 100% buy the R33 kit. it will fit the Z32 afm, and the mount bracket will fit your 33. enjoy.

yeah given driveshafts still going through the sump/diff in the front it's not easy to drop the engine much if at all. plus if the car is already really low (using just adjustable shocks) then driveshaft angles are already fairly bad. if you went to a remove front diff (like a hilux etc) arrangement then you'd be in business. but such a hassle.

put an exhaust on the evo, then put an exhaust on the GTR and wind it's boost up to 16psi like the evo. suddenly the GTR has 220kw. then give both a re-tune and cam gear ajustment and the GTR has 250+kw at 15psi and the evo will have 200kw. suddenly the GTR is woken up and a much angrier, sportier car to drive. in factory standard form the GTR is very much strangled to death with very low boost, small exhaust and conservative tune.

just confirm for me surge tank + pumps are gone?

awesome work mate. I just found this thread. love the exhaust, it's lovely. did the guys at mercury make it or was it done somewhere else? the car is going to be a major contender at WTAC that's for sure. no doubt about it.

willis, for your problem I would start by doing 2 things. replace your speedo cable as it's clearly faulty (jumping speed reading on gauge). also fix the hicas problem. often these things can be inter-related. if it's a non-hicas steering wheel boss that's causing the problem then it's easy to replace it with the proper boss kit (be aware early and late R32s need a different type as steering position sensors have different default positions). really you should fix it asap.

eh? fine but coarse? sounds good though. I'm very tempted to go but have so much on these next 2 months.

ok, you've convinced me. next season I'm watching after '98 ends will be a turbo era season. This current '98 season was also the year of the Maclarens 'double brake pedal' controversy. They were photographed at the first race of the year in aus with 2 brake pedals (1 for front + rear and one for rear only I think). from memory coulthard couldn't/didn't use it but mika used them to great effect till they were pulled 1 or 2 races later. cool idea. you'd have to be pretty switched on to make the most of it though, but the maclaren was such a good car that year I wonder if it really made much difference anyway.

yeah I was going to ask about roof damage from the 're-entry' but thought it polite not to mention it! yeah car looks great and the driving not too shabby either. I know I'd be into the trees about 100 meters after the start. at least it'd be a short walk back...

agreed. on track miles per $ you'll probably be a fair bit ahead on a set of brand new KU36 than buying used semis. the problem is you can never tell how used tyres have been heat cycled and they may be pretty wrecked in that regard. and by buying new you can look after them, rotate them etc and get the most out of them. the most important thing is seat time. the more time on track you get the faster you will go. I'm not sure what you mean? you don't want a tyre you can't keep up with? I drove a makes S15 at wakefield the other day on just plain shithouse street tyres (215/17 all round from memory). you quickly learn how to use the grip they have and in fact good semis probably hide a lot more driving deficiencys than they reveal. you will no doubt be faster on semis but you'll learn a lot more on lower grip tyres that's for sure. and when you go back to semi's you can apply that knowledge and go even faster again. but it's your car, go with whatever you're comfortable with. but at the price you quoted before KU36 are hard to beat.

yeah baby. nice TD06 fed RB20 screaming through the forest would do it for me.

I hear that! yeah I reckon applause/charade/mirage/civic etc make a good dirt beginners car. cheap as hell, fairly light, FWD, injected, 5 speed manual (box in the applause is actually very nice) and did I mention they are cheap? my dad's applause is pretty close to being free with fuel in tank as a bonus! it's still rego'd too i think. lol. even better you don't need keys to start it any more since some fkwit stole it a while back. think of it as a head start on a remote ign cut-off. with the holes in the rusted muffler it even has a nice rorty engine note. haha. but the cordia would be a nugget. heavy, slow, asthmatic carby engine, weak everything and not to mention marlin will dis-own you if you drive it. your idea of 32 GTST is a good one, but budget will skyrocket. even to do a basic one will still cost some decent coin simply because they are bigger, heavier, more powerful, rwd etc. I still reckon for a first dirt car something cheap, Jap, FWD and not too old is the go. like 90s at the earliest. in japan there are plenty hot parts for daihatsu charades and applause etc, same goes for mirage's and civics etc.

agree with marlin, the first car looks like the go to me despite it's lap times not quite as quick yet as the second car. that could easily be down to driver though anyway. I do think it might be tough to get $30K for your car though? with basic suspension and (as best I can tell) standard engine and brakes it's fairly basic overall. does have a nice cage but to be a competitive open class track car it still needs a lot of $$$ to spend.

yep 2860-5s are the ones.

interesting you mentioned power band marko. it's something I've talked about with a few smart people. and we looked at a number of big effort engines built. we reckoned with the same turbos, headwork etc the built 26's power band (revving to 10K in this case but could go to 10,500 comfortably) was wider than the built 30s which rev'd happily to 8,500 (I think most would agree pretty stout for a 30). they found the 30 shifted the power band down 1,000rpm (meaning hit certain power and boost targets 1,000rpm earlier) but lost out on 1,500rpm up top so it's power band was 500rpm smaller. on the street the 30 was a fair bit faster as fact is you are hitting power band sooner. so unless you launch the 26 at 7K off every set of lights the 30 will leave you for dead in a gentle take off then floor it kind of situation. on the track where you are up in the power band all the time the 26 walks away. this is only one example of 2 engines built by one bloke so don't take it as gospel but it's a factor many people don't consider.

you are far too cranky and far too good at winding me up for me to argue so I'll agree. but don't tell me you don't think berry/newmans tomei 2.6 in the 32 doesn't sound better than berry's RB30 in the 34.... and don't get me wrong, they BOTH sound fking off the planet but there's that special something in the RB26 note that's hard to emulate. pretty good back to back as both have run the same twins at some point, both dry sump, both tuned by the same blokes and all the other hardware like headwork etc very similar between the 2 donks. no question the 30 makes the power and torque though. I'm not shitting on the 30s either. they make a bloody impressive combo. but the fact is they do have different characteristics to the RB26/27. if they didn't what would be the point of doing it? the reason people like them is because they are different.

hehe, I have about 5 or 6 full years of 80s and most of the 90s. might start on the 2000s soon as they are fading in my memory and are nearly old enough to 'surprise' me with results. the only problem with the 80s stuff is quality of footage is so shit. it's like a time machine watching the improvements in television broadcast quality. late 90s not too bad but even early 90s is pretty crap and 80s really crap. don't even ask what the 70s looks like.

yeah same as current aus broadcast. mine is all the old CH9 coverage, so pre-race with Alan Jones and Daryl Eastlake (and mark webber on occasion) and then in-race commentary is ITV (BBC?) with Martin Trundle and Murray "if I'm not very much mistaken" Walker... Also have the "In the pits" segments which are mostly crap but sometimes good. all in all it's a good watch in bed of an evening. murray walker lulls me to sleep except for every now and then when he starts farking yelling. "OH NOE! IS THAT MICHAEL SCHUMACHER IN THE WALL!!!!!! THE CHAMPIONSHIP CONTENDER HAS CRASHED... oh wait it's a tyrell and it's not in the wall it's just entering the pits, my mistake"... he was senile in the bloody 80s but by the late 90s it was beyond a joke. not that he was EVER that sharp as far as I can tell....

not yet you haven't mate. easy to re-sell the turbos since you haven't fitted them. and hopefully just jap will give you credit to the value of the walbro towards a nismo pump. otherwise just re-sell the walbro. I have a new 34 GTR nismo pump here somewhere you could have for cost/wholesale. you're on the right track just need to refine the choices a bit. I have owned a couple of GTRS with 2530s (similar to -5s) and agree they are probably not the perfect choice for a 26 road car. on my Jun 2.7 they are a bit better but GT-SS or 34 N1s will make a better street set-up for you. seriously, on a road car with some GT-SS or 34N1s and the other gear you have you'll end up with a nice 300-300kw atw and it will be FAST!

yeah no real balancer as such, just a crank pulley to drive the water pump, alt and oil pump... everything would be finely balanced from end of crank to the clutch, not sure if the crank is full counter weight but it probably is.

this comes up every 6 months. the answer is no. complete waste of time and money even if you got the S15 turbos for free. if you can't afford the $2500 for a set of garrets you can't really afford to change turbos at all. just wait/save till you can buy something suitable.