Beer Baron

next time it runs out of fuel, go check if there is actually fuel in the tank. that will tell you whether or not it's a faulty level sender. also, are you sure the cradle is located properly in it's bracket? or is it just floating around in the tank? you know the pump fits to the cradle and then the cradle fits to the tank right? actually wait, in 33s cradle is fixed to the inspection lid right, on a kind of arm arrangement that holds it in the tank? if so, don't mind me!

well I guess if they are all converting to LHD the 2JZ makes some sense as a LHD RB26 set-up might struggle for room on the (new) drivers side. yeah definitely build a jap style 32 GTR mate. maybe even go RB30/26 (i know they love cubes), or do it old school, RB26, 11,000rpm limiter, BIG twins (like twin 3037s), and go for it!

that's a bummer. seems like everyone tried to do the right thing, but lesson learnt for the buyer, broker and customer. DO not buy a car that you have not seen in person. had the buyer gone to the auction in person he would have seen the chassis number was removed and kept walking. by buying a car remotely he got screwed. in fact same goes with no chassis number on the sheet. it's an indication straight away that something may be wrong. it's not really your fault iron chef, you trusted him, but he was not doing his job as an agent. he should have been there in person. otherwise what do you need him for? with auction access online you can bid on auctions with a terminal in your bedroom in Australia. I have had the access for years and years but simply don't do it as without someone to physically inspect the car for me it's like playing roulette. auction sheets just don't give a complete enough picture. things like this removed chassis number take 5 seconds to spot in person but are hard to spot from the agents bedroom in kobe just as hard as they are from your bedroom in adelaide or mine in sydney. this is why we have agents, they are our men on the ground there to ensure the cars match the sheets and that nothing is wrong. farking hard luck story though, and I can see the buyer pulling out of the second car would have caused some friction. I can understand why he did it, but it perhaps would have been better if he spoke up as soon as his money was returned that he no longer wanted to import a car.

dammit! I could have used the rep. need to go play with my admin powa I think. will you at least tell people you would have repp'd me?

you and funky are both soft! If Alan Lewis can drive his porsche 911 up into his truck (which is way higher than my pantec and most others, I'd say the bed height on his is around 7 or 8 feet high) then you to can do it with your light little tube chassis cars! it's the best way. ramps don't need to be as long as you think. I'd say the bed on my pantec is only about 4ft high, it's certainly doable. means you can use it like a mobile shed and keep your car, tools and spares in their safe and out of the elements and with lights inside you can work in there etc on race weekends.

well I have a guy here in syd who 100% wants to go ahead and have these made. neither of us are confident enough in our CAD skills though so we need a design. he has access to the right materials and a machine shop that can wire cut the gears etc. and plenty of motivation to do it.

envy imports in sydney make their own cam gears. they use the outer gear of standard gears (very strong and doesn't wear) and add an adjustable alloy inner plate with 5 bolts. very good set-up and quite cheap. otherwise tomei are good and trust are good too. whatever you get, make sure they are done up tight when tuning is finished. if you want intake fuel pump, get a nismo pump. a bit more expensive than a bosch but are 100% direct fit. even someone with the most basic mechanical experience could fit one DIY with basic tools.

mostly guesswork and hearsay to be honest. including on my part. though I ahve looked and plenty of broken pumps and considered what those engines were doing, what power they made, who built them, did they have collar etc. crank whip is part of it. I mean RB26 crank is a long I6 crank with all the inherent harmonics problems and balance problems. it's rare (but not unheard of) to see pump failures amongst guys with good balancers and well balanced rotating assemblies. what you described is the common failure. pump drive hammering the inner gear which pushes against the outer gear hard against the case causing one or both to crack. there are usually witness marks on the collar and the inner gear. rev limiter abuse comes into it too. it's been a while since I pulled the tomei pump apart but from memory the inner half of the inner gear is a very tight fit on the outer part of the inner gear. they are splined but not much play there if any. poor balancer, poor balancing of the engine, poor (none) balancing of the flywheel and clutch and large bearing clearances definitely add to the failures. a 2JZ style arrangement with a coolar that fits the crank with the spline drive on the outer to drive a splined inner gear is definitely the way forward.

yeah I think tomei pump, crank with collar and big sump along with enlarged oil returns and an oil feed restrictor (i'd go 1.2 or 1.1mm with a tomei pump) is probably a good solution for your car. and I knew there was no way you'd consider an upgraded pump on a stock sump. your name alone tells me you are far too smart. lol. but it was mentioned so I just responded to that.

yep, have to be wire cut. if shane has the designs I have a buyer who will pay for them and he has the motivation and the money to see this project through and get them made in aus. if shane or whoever wants to contact me I will get it done.

are you sure you're not thinking of RB25 side feed injectors? this is like all the people who keep saying sard 700s don't fit RB256 fuel rails etc... they do.

yeah I'm pretty sure the nismo RB26 top feed 600s are single hole. nothing wrong with them though, or the sard 600s. I've used both and also the sard 700s and never had any problem with either of those 3 types. in fact I'm now using the sard 1000s and they are good too.

GO ISOTOPES! we are hungry for the truth about the isotopes!!!

yeah sorry, obscure rescue me/dennis leary reference. he's old school irish, like troy. lol. mate you should be thankful they keep letting you back in to australia! it's a miracle you're able to get into any country at all so be greatful of all the places that WILL give you a visa. who wants to go to ireland anyway? beer is rubbish and the chicks there can't make up their minds...

are you talking about factory brakes? of course they will clear. your factor wheels are like 16X7 with +35 or +40 offset and have thick spokes and still clear the puny factory brakes. and you're worried a set of aftermarket 19inch wheels won't fit? seriously? dude you could fit your brakes and a pizza dish in there.

really? I wouldn't call it laggy. it reaches 260kw at 5,500rpm and holds it to redline. that's a pretty nice bit of power for a little 2L. It's coming on hard from 4,500 onwards and is very strong by 5,000. so as long as you can keep it above 4,500rpm it will be hauling ass!

guys they are not suing them in the traditional sense. they are not asking for monetary compensation. if what they say is true then what they are asking for is more than reasonable. "Tesla simply wants Top Gear to stop rebroadcasting the particular episode and to correct the record." That seems fair to me given they claim to have the data logs as evidence.

lol, agree the aero is just as big (bigger?) a problem as the weight. That thing was a bloody awesome trailer but everything on it was mil spec and weighed shitloads. I mean it even hard a full size house style split system air conditioner FFS!! it was made to be towed behind a F150 etc or some kind kind of road train I reckon. it would have been more viable with a goose neck and a supercharged dodge ram to two with, except then you'd need another trailer to carry your fuel drums or some kind of fuel drop system along the highways.

LC1 was 4,800 if my memory serves me (I have some vids somewhere of me doing it, I'll check). and yes it was with VDC off with trans and suspension in R. it was a pretty good balance between wheel spin and traction on every surface that I tried it on. wheels would turn maybe a couple of revolutions then it was 1st gear limiter in a hearbeat, grab second and off it goes again. I would say mid 3 second 0-100 times were easily do-able with LC1. hopefully now that's back with LC3. and I didn't have any gearbox problems. Fuel use and tyre wear was pretty fierce though!!

3 second flat 0-100 would be nice! oh well, they are not known for accuracy...

yeah but russ's was like a farken rolling taj mahal. it had fridge, telly, and was bloody heavy to start with. then add the 32 or 34 and no wonder it pulled the arse off the navara! for little cars like the radical you just need a normal basic trailer with some thin sheel metal to protect the front then canvas for the rest. not a full on rolling palace like russ's. shit the back door a lone was so bloody heavy it needed a winch to lift it closed!!! other option is pantec. actually, funky, buy my bloody atlas truck. you could fit a radical in that no worries and it seats 3 people. runs on diesel, can carry 2 ton payload, has aircon, and can drive it on a car licence. then you have tow car AND trailer AND storage all sorted in one hit!!! I'll do it bloody cheap too as I'm sick of rego'ing the thing only to lend it out to my bludger mates. It'll be cheaper than just an enclosed nevco on it's own...

yeah I knew bris would come to my rescue. for sure every time webber lack pace he will straight out admit if it's driver error, or he was struggling with car set-up or tyres or if it was a mechanical problem slowing him down. and I have to say most of the time when he seems to lack that much pace it's a mechanical problem more than him just being off with the fairies. I do think webber manages his car and tyres better than vettel on most days. vettel seems to have a slight outright lap pace advantage but I reckon it could just about be put down to the height and weight difference between the two of them. and webber is often enough the quicker of the two to show he is easily a match for vettel. vettel make a lot of stupid mistakes and keeps doing them year after year. I thought running up webbers arse back in japan (when zetool was in a TR) was dumb but he's made plenty of those type of stupid errors since. webber has not exactly been trouble free either, but when he makes genuine mistakes (like he did in korea getting caught out on the wet edge of the track) he is man enough to admit he had a fckup. zetool on the other hand has a massive sook when he's off the pace and looks desperately for any excuse to mitigate his responsibility.

sound point...

sorry but I don't agree with nismoid. yes an aftermarket pump WILL empty the sump. it's a bloody simple equation. how much can the pump flow in 1min of operation at XXX RPM. then look at how much oil can pass through the oil galleries in that time (it's much less, only gravity to help it). it's a dangerous thing. a nitto pump will flow 64.8 litres per minute, that is 1.1 litre per second. now with only just on 4 litres in an RB26 sump it will take just 4 seconds at 7,000rpm to empty the sump of oil. but in that 4 seconds of running the engine may return 1 litre of oil through the oil galleries to the sump. so after 4 seconds we have 1 litre in the sump, another second sees another 1.1 litre pumped up, and sees another 250ml return, so you could easily see that after about 6 seconds of 7,000rpm+ running you no longer have a drop of oil in the sump. add to that, that you are pulling some accell G at this moment meaning oil is away from the pick-up then in reality things probably go wrong a bit sooner. note, the figure of 1L per min of oil returning through the stock head and block galleries is just a random number, it's been roughly calculated before at a given viscosity of oil how much can get in there, but it varies a bit depending on vacuum/pressure conditions in the crankcase etc too. but that's around what it is. even if you double it, things won't go much better. all this basically tells us is that upgrading the oil pump with a standard sump is a bad idea. If you are adding 30% to what the pump can flow (and adding nothing to how quickly that oil can return), then you should be adding 30% to the sump capacity too. as far as what power do you have to upgrade? There is no set figure, but I will say this. most of the circuit cars I've been invloved with were fine at 350kw on semi slicks. once they hit 380, 400kw etc on new semis (and with good drivers) they suddenly started having oil system problems all the time. it's just too much power, too much G force and not a good enough system. of those guys, the ones that went to dry sump systems now live happily on the track at 450kw+. honestly I reckon if you have that much power in a track car you should have the brakes to go with it ($10K+), the safety gear to go with it (full cage) and the right oiling system to protect that 450kw engine (dry sump, cost around $8-$10K.).

yeah in the long run you're probably better off to sell your NA auto, and but a turbo manual. price difference between the two is not that big. and the turbo manual has many improved features, bigger brakes, 5 stud hubs, much better engine package (with double the power) etc etc.