Beer Baron

I wouldn't say the tomei pump uses a gear arrangement similar to the 2JZ style pump? 2jZ pump has a splined gear on the crank, driving the oil pump gear. the tomei pump as a 2 piece inner gear but it still uses the same 2 small flats to drive the pump gear just like any other 26 pump which is the weak point. the gears 'teeth' are slightly different but they are still a gerotor type pump just with much bigger gears with a more suitable material. they are unique in the 2 piece inner gear set-up but still no where near as good as a 2JZ pump. the best option for RB26 is still getting a set of splined gears made up with the inner gear permanently fixed to the crank.

as best I can remember it's still using the stock ones. just moved. it;s still about the same distance from the PS pump just different place (now near headlight). I'll have a look. there's only low pres line anyway from res to pump so it's quite easy to change.

yeah fuel pump is not needed unless there is a problem with the one you have. and if you do want to change it, get a nismo. much easier to install and very good pump. then next step is power FC or nistune. both are excellent options and will really bring the car alive. when getting the nistune or power FC tune done, take the opportunity and get some adjustable cam gears fitted and have them adjusted too on the dyno (in conjunction with the ecu tune). forget the blitz access ecu. waste of time. they are pre-set for certain mods and cannot be changed. it may not even suit your cars state of tune at all.

well I have ordered a 9180 EFR TS housing (twin ex gate) back in november 2010. still waiting but it should be coming soon. I will do my nut if bumhoe gets his first though! we ordered and paid last year!!! pretty keen to see it go. hopefully it'll be the first in aus.

I wasn't running stock actuators. I was running HKS actuators and a profec B II and peak boost didn't change. only thing changed was the cam timing. the EBC kept the boost where it was.

peak boost wasn't changed. 15psi before and after. i've posted the power v boost graph before I'm sure. someone better than me at searching could probably find it. as the man said, it may bring boost on earlier so it hits peak sooner but it didn't change what that peak was.

i have never used one personally but I know plenty of people running cometic gaskets without enough problems to suggest there is anything faulty in their design or manufacture. sure buying a nissan VRS gasket kit and then replacing the HG with something MLS (cosworth, tomei etc) is a good way to go and plenty of people have done it that way. but if you're going to do that you might as well just buy the tomei gasket kit which not only has the MLS head gasket but also includes the better MLS exhaust gaskets too, the rest in the kit are gen nissan.

yeah they look like nismo 600cc injectors. but to be sure I would get them tested somewhere who can give you a cc/min @2.5bar figure for them. otherwise it's just guessing. unless you can google the part number and get a result (they are just another denso injector after all).

they are shit. get a proper aftermarket one and you'll be astounded at how fast and by how much pressure changes with RPM. the stock gauges are purposely dampened in their response as nissan (and other companies) thought wildly moving gauges would alarm the general car driving public and people would think there was something seriously wrong with their oil pressure. so what you get is a very slow moving gauge that is no where close to being accurate at any given moment.

edit: just read your post. well done. now you have a figure and now hopefully any pinging (if it was pinging) has been tuned out. enjoy.

get it back on a dyno mate. you told us before you had it on the dyno and it was pinging (but for some reason you don't have a power figure from that?). then you took it to a mate who drove it on the road with his lap top hooked up and told you it's not pinging. completely different conditions. of course on a fang around the street it may not ping but loaded up on the dyno (as it will be in 4th and 5th gear) it pings. having 1 big fan in front of the car is normal for most dyno operators. get it back on the dyno and find out if the tune really is ok or not. it will also give you the magic power figure you want. the tuners guess of 150kw is just as random as the bloke who sent you the mail order tune saying 190kw and I could guess and say 160kw and it has just as much relevance as those guesses do as that is all they are. guesses. use a dyno. it's a tool used to measure power at the wheels. that is what it does (well that and simulate road driving so that cars can be tested and tuned safely and conveniently).

I'm not sure the injectors are the problem. i have run a few sets of the sard 700s with the advertised 0.65ms lag time in my own cars (with power FC) and never had a problem with idle or getting the AFRs I wanted. if they are 2.2ms then it's news to me and dozens of others I know who've run them at that latency with no problems. it sounds to me like a simple case of the tune not quite right. do you know what kind of target AFR your tuner is looking at under full throttle, loaded, full boost runs (power runs?). start there, maybe do a log of a full throttle 3rd gear run (if you can) and check the AFRs for yourself. 02 sensor in a hollowed out cat is not ideal but not terrible either. ideally I'd have it in just ahead of the front pipe-cat flange (so just after the Y merge of the front pipes). it may be time to set yourself up with a laptop and start learning the vipec software. you already have the wideband 02, so perhaps invest in a set of DET cans or some kind of knock meter and then start tuning it yourself.

personally I think: front lip looks worse, the old one had a much nicer shap. front bumper looks worse too, the fins on each side (where the led strips are) looks worse than the old bits front grill with chrome highlight looks worse too. very much out of place. front LED lights look bloody stupid. I actually prefer the original dealer option running lights if you have to have some. but they look better with nothing at all. The new wheels are a massive step backwards too. the original wheels were so nice looking, beautifully sculpted spoke shape and so tough looking. the new ones with the thin spidery spokes look awful in comparison. they are too angular too. all in all I much prefer the look of my old series 1 to the new model. they have really uglied up the front end and the wheels badly. the new power is nice, but it's nothing you can't have in a series one with the most minor of mods. and I like the series one full blooded 4,500 rpm launches too so for me if I was buying another I'd save some money and buy a lightly used S1.

this one is another option, but more $$ and much harder to buy in aus. http://www.fanatec.de/html/index.php?id=220〈=en could be not too bad if you order it to an address in the US and use a freight forwarding service to send to aus. but by the time you pay for it to be sent and pay the fowarding/shopper fee it'll probably still be $250+ where as wheel stand pro you can order from the .com site or they have a .com.au site (but I found it faster from the .com site, though it's a few $ cheaper if you get it from the .com.au shop). I think the way it uses a cam level to fasten the bars is better too. certainly quicker and easier to adjust and means you can fasten it farken tight.

I know this is a super old post, but if you haven't bought anything to mount your wheel set-up then I have the solution for you. http://www.wheelstandpro.com/ it's great. very sturdy, lots of adjustment, holds everything nice and firm and you can use it on the couch, in a chair or whatever. and it folds up neatly in about 2 seconds. not too expensive either at around $200 delivered. I had a custom made set-up with race seat (used the carbon cobra evolution out of my 32) etc but they are just so farken big they either get left in the living room taking up heaps of space, or you pack them away and then cbf getting them back out again. this is much more elegant. I just fold mine down flat and it tucks under the coffee table, the wheel and pedals stay permanently attached. I'm using it with just a logitech GT wheel and it's actually a very nice set-up.

for me it would be: cobb access port (and preferable a custom tune) midpipe (removes 2 cats and replaces them with either pipe, or some mufflers/resonators) trans fluid change (the willal stuff seems to be the best option at the moment) Then drive it for a while and see how you like it. yeah full exhaust won't add huge power after you already have the midpipe, but they do add a nice sound (so does the midpipe with standard cat back exhaust though), and depending on the model they will look better too. After that you need to consider how far you want to go? injector and pump upgrade and E85 tune is one way to go, then there's intercoolers, turbos, etc etc. upgrade to 400mm rotors and some better pads is a fairly good upgrade too. it all depends what you want from the car, and also how you plan to use the car. if it's going on the track one of the first things I'd do is a proper seat and harness set-up. much easier to drive when you're not being thrown around the cabin.

any results?

nice trailer snowy. looks very easy to use. handbrakes novco looks kick arse too! love all the storage on it. let us know what it's like to tow with.

pretty boring race overall. highlights were petrov in 3rd. well done. and like the others said, I wish the kube was in there. petrov is good no doubt about it, but the kube is a vodka swilling, potato eating, polish F1 god! duncan, leave webber alone, yeah he had a shit race and basically just no pace, but that's par for the course for him at his home gp. whatever it is he just can't get it together at home. he's beaten vettel enough times, and been within a bees dick of him enough to prove that he's as good a driver as vettel is on their good days. on his bad days he's a bit ordinary but everyone has them. vettel included. perez's effort was pretty interesting. 1 stop in a race where most of the front runners needed 3 is mighty impressive. if he can do that every race he'll keep making up spots. melbourne is known to be fairly low wear though as the surface is not very abrasive. rubens 'move' if you can call it that was shithouse. he had no chance of making a pass there. shame it cost rosberg his race. webber probably would have had alonso if not for his pit stuff up. yeah he was a bit slow on his first outlap, but his second outlap was fastest lap of the race to that point, without kers he didn't have much chance of getting alonso. even with the DRS. you could see he'd be closing on alonso down the straight but with alonso on kers he could never get close enough to make a move.

forget the GTST wheels. 16X6.5 is useless. 32 GTR is ok, but far better off just getting the 17X9 33 GTR wheels. they are good size and offset for a 32 GTST and take a 235/45/17 semi slick (like A050, DZ03G etc) very nicely and 245 or 255 will fit too (255 semi is a little big on a 9, but 255 road tyre is perfect). yeah they are not super light, but they are very strong and will take plenty of curb pounding etc. and they are by no means 'heavy'.

nice to see webber in front of zetool after P1.

yeah, you can join SAU NSW. they are cams affiliated. info in the nsw section. I think SAU QLD might be CAMS affiliated too if you prefer that.

nice link. watching it now.

well I do agree about the cost. no way are you going to import a NICE series 8 2002 RX7 for $16-17K. make it $30k and you will get something good. something that is worth owning.

I can answer how they perform. pretty ordinary. in my experience on the track they were slower than the factory dunlops and the factory bridgestones. they are not as good as the standard tyres, their sidewalls are no where near as stiff so you get an initial 'inertia moment' of roll as you turn in, and outright grip is not fantastic either. everyone I know who has tried them on their R35 so far felt the same way. they are not up to the weight and power of the 35. they are cheap, but that's about all they have going for them. R888s are great on lighter cars like civics etc on track but they struggle a bit even on 32/33/34 GTRs, it's obviously even more of an issue on 35s.