Beer Baron

lol. as long as it's not a photo of me. I have been in it now and it's pretty cool. he's churned out a few. but my favourite was not smoky built. lol, here is a photo of my with smoky's supra from many years ago. god I am handsome... lol just found there is a photo of me with smoky in my gallery too. damn he's short!

nice choice of wheels John. sexual chocolate.

nice skids mate!! good effort.

bugger, hope it's a dry race for the guys going out. i won't be there but I've been there before in the rain. not so much fun.

yeah would be nice to run a attkd super cheater R34 with HKS 2.8 engine, V-cam, 2530s, hollinger sequential and all the other bits. no doubt it would be an absolute gun, but like snowy said, once someone who can really steer got one the protests would be heard far and wide. cars like that are just not in the spirit of the thing in my opinion. once you let cars like it in (and i know they have) where do you stop? what's to stop me running a "Cyber super special model Evo"? 1000kg or less, 600hp, plenty of aero etc. would be pretty rapid on tarmac I reckon if it can lap eastern creek in 1 min 30 flat on semis.

ps your engine bay will be tight as all hell now. 6 boost taking up all the real-estage on the ex side and trust plenum is bloody huuuge on the inlet side, plus the fact you've got a 30 in there. you will never get a hand down in there again!!! my thing is tight enough now with just 2530s with the same HKS piping you have and hks manifolds and a trust plenum and it's a standard block jun 2.7.... I had to move my PS res too but it's actually a good thing as it takes it further away from the turbo heat. mines now up near the passenger headlight and radiator support.

well fingers crossed for you that fatz has forgotten which is which...

makes the 9180 look like a good choice. but id want a bite more than 600hp atw. do you know what size turbine housing is on the 9180 and is it TS or non TS? ex gate or iwg?

it's pretty tough to provide a tune file that's going to be meaningful for cars in a very different climate with different fuel etc not to mention the different set-ups of the cars themselves. it's really something that needs to be customised for each car. maybe the wideband accuracy is not good? if cars are tuned to suitable AFRs but still seem to be running rich then perhaps get sensors recalibrated and also for each car that needs tuning spend $50 getting a boss welded into the front pipe (where the 2 merge) so the wideband sensor can be mounted there much closer to the engine. if they are using one stuck up the rear muffler it can and will give varied results.

yeah it's a bit of work to fit 32 GTR quarters to a 32 GTST but not impossible. fairly straight forward for any competent smash repair place. but sure it's probably the hardest bit of the conversion. and yes you want guards to be able to run big wheels and tyres. though even standard GTR guards can't swallow HUGE tyres.

lol, do it. fatz is pretty drunk most of the time so there's a 50/50 chance he'll give you the genuine greddy one for $150... worth the gamble I say.

edit: found the graph. it went from 221 to 247. I'm pretty sure this is the before and after cam gear tuning graph. basically at 220rwkw it was about normal for a stock GTR with pods, exhaust, power FC and 1 bar boost. but with the cam gears it suddenly competes with most GTSS powered GTRs running 1 bar. you can see to get to that gain took only 5 levels of adjustment (we knew where to start and just tried a few settings either side of that point to get the optimum gain).

I know it's old but since it's been bumped I'll enter the cam gear debate. for standard turbs, -9s or even -5s cam gears on standard cams are a good way to go. they will not hurt top end power at all (at the worst you might lose 2 or 3kw at best you'll gain 2 or 3) but in the midrange you can gain as much as 20kw which is bloody huge for a couple hundred $ in parts and 1 or 2 hours of dyno time. my old 32 GTR was running stock turbos (well I think they were stock, could have been n1s or something), HKS actuators, power FC, standard injectors, standard AFMS, standard intercooler, standard dumps, standard front pipes, 3.5inch cat back exhaust (with very high flow cat) and it make near on 270rwkw on 15psi and ran that way (still runs that way) for years. I've just spent 10 min looking for the back to back graph but can't find it. I can find one graph of when it was finished. here's the sheet. it's not bad for a very standard GTR. it was pretty quick too. I have personally had cars with: standard cams, standard turbos (adjustable cam gears) tomei type B cams, GTSS turbos (adjustable gears) midori cams (slightly milder than type B, 256 duration ~9mm lift) with 2530s HKS cams (from memory they are 264 duration and about 9.5mm lift) GTSS turbos now currently have tomei cams type B with 2530s (on a jun 2.7 stroker engine). To be honest if I were going GTSS again I would stick to stock cams and cam gears. same goes for standard turbos. for 2530s cams are a consideration but again stock cams with gears work well on them too. don't get me wrong I love cams, love the beaty idle, love the hard edge they give the exhaust note. but considering a set of cams is nearly $1000 and in my mind I would not be fitting ANY type of cam with standard valve springs (another $500) and I also would not be fitting any cams to an old engine without checking and re-doing valve clearances (another few $100) it suddenly becomes expensive and may not give the results you want. standard cams with small=ish turbos and adjustable gears is proven to offer gains. how much of a gain varies a bit but it's quote common to see at least 15kw in midrange gained and a couple of kw up top.

would like to see the same tests done with the TS EFR turbo. I believe that is where they shine a bit more.

well the real cheap way is pull the engine yourself and whack in a set of standard pistons and rings and a set of bearings and a new headgasket. other option is buy another engine in good nick and just swap them over (i'm selling one. ). as far as turbos go, cheapest option is buy a set of standard ones again, go 33 or 34 if you can find a set. they are not really any better than 32 model turbos, just newer. the expensive way is build the engine properly and buy some steel wheel turbos. but yeah that will be $10K+ probably more like $15K drive in, drive out.

well it's not very hard. don't remove your "altezza" though. lol. simply remove the front diff and replace with a RWD diff (might need adapter) or just cut off the sump part and weld it up. remove front drive shafts and front prop shaft, might need to modify hubs with no driveshaft in them. cut off transfer case and weld it, remove the ATTESA computer, wiring, pump and resevoir (need to look at any impact on ABS though, perhaps remove ABS too if you want). The problem is though once you do that there is not much in the car that is any better than a GTST. so you'd probably be better off just starting with the GTST and do a 26 conversion. I mean yeah the brakes are better but by bugger all (296mm rotors vs 280mm rotors -callipers the same) and even for a RWD GTR they would be under-braked for any kind of serious driving. sure it has alloy bonnet and guards but they are easy to get or get carbon, same goes with bumper etc (can get a fibreglass one which is lighter than standard and cheap). interior is easy to get and cheap, the only hard bit would be the rear guards. the real problem is the car would be pretty traction limited. have you driven a powerfull GTR in RWD mode? it's an experience full of on-boost wheelspin at pretty much any legal speed. but by all means if you really want to do it then go ahead. it's not been done very often cause it's not a good idea. if it was you'd see dozens of RWD GTRs out there because it's certainly not hard to do.

as the gay man said, i'm right behind you brisby. just putting my picks in now. i've got some hot ones. kobayashi will be top 10 for sure. so will at least 1 force india driver...

will it help if I tell you i've been in and driven one of the veilside fortune RX7s that were used in tokyo drift, when they were back in tokyo? I can also tell you one of them had a little rear-ender on the freeway! d'oh. keep chasing the dream, but personally I don't see it happen. by the time you get all this together most likely they won't be producing the kit anymore.

there is an awesome supra I've seen in japan (not one of the tops eecret built ones) with a nice built RB26 in it making around 750ps, with sequential 6 speed box etc and lots of gear. I actually like it. it would annoy a few folks though. top secret started sticking RB26 into supras cause he 'knew' how to tune the 26 and thought it was god's gift to engine bays. I did like his GT300 inspired 3SGTE powered supra though. that thing was cool.

good question. to be honest you really need to ask that question in the only 2 places whose opinions count. first one is DIT (was DOTARS) and the second one is your states registration authority (Vic Roads). I'm not sure anyone on here will know a 100% answer and for something like this you really need the info straight from the source.

I have to say, bloody good effort from lowndes. he has not forgotten all his open wheel work in europe after all. just to be able to hop in and at least drive the thing at 8/10ths is a bloody good effort. and kinks, awesome photos.

awesome pics kinks!!! really great. very nice framing, contrast, focus etc. nothing really to criticise at all. really nice.

personally I don't think there is anything wrong with running a set of 235s on both 8 and 9inch rims. if they are road tyres like KU36, RSR, RT615s then you'll find the fronts fit perfectly on the 8s and the rear may be a tiny bit small on the 9s but both still within acceptable sizes. conversely if you're running proper semis (A050's, RE55s etc) then you'll find 235s on the front will be a little big on the wheel, and on the rear they'll be just about right (maybe a tiny bit small) but again both will be acceptable. if you are happy with the handling then go for it. at least it means you can rotate tyres which is important with track rubber. 235 is a fine size for both the 8 and 9 inch wheels. don't worry about it. if you can find a cheap set of 8s then by all means run 8s all round and buy 225s and save a bit of coin the long run. but 235/45/17 is a very common semi slick size so you'll probably find no real saving in going to a 225 anyway.

yeah don't think you could run a emo 9 as a 02 7 model simply because the chassis changed a bit. in fact I'm not sure the rules work that way at all. I think it has to be pre 02 first, and then you can do stuff like run a non N1 GTR as an N1. plus that's also an upgrade. not sure for example that they would let you downgrade a late model GT3 to an earlier one even if they are both 996 models. but it's an interesting idea, if you can in fact run say an 04 model 996 as an 02 model with 02 bits on it. there were a few changes to the GT3s even over the 996 model life, not a lot though. I know a shitload changed in the 996 cup cars over their life. we were forever updating the fking thing to the current years spec to keep it competitive.

All I want is to know what i'n means? you used it more than 3 times in one post so it's clearly not a spelling mistake. never seen that abbreviation before... also, found the perfect one for you. http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=9936012&YearFromShort=1637&__Qpb=true&Cr=0&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&keywords=&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294962861%204294962110%20904%201622%201637&SearchAction=N&silo=1011&seot=1&tsrc=allcarhome&__Nne=15&trecs=10&__sid=11EBBF8BEB96 it's in WA AND it comes with a 2JZ.. asking price is $99,000 but surely much easier than buying one allll the way over east. makes me wonder how all those people import cars from even further away than say sydney. places like japan even. they must be nuts. I did have one problem with your engine transplant idea though. all the JZA80 supras I could find for sale, yes even the ones in WA, all had 2JZ engines already fitted to them?!?! WTF? their owners must have beaten you to it and installed the 2JZ. maybe you could ask one to sell you one without the 2JZ engine in it, and then you can do the transplant?