Beer Baron

yes they are the same base circle as standard cams but that doesn't mean you wont need to re-shim the valve clearances when installing. re-setting valve clearances is a maintenance item which should be checked and done periodically. sadly not many do it. so quite often when replacing your cams it's past due and needs to be done (or should be done at least). mrstabby. what you have seems correct. I think lift might be the same between standard and N1. maybe a little more lift on the exhaust side. with a longer duration ex cam overlap is increased a bit so yes it would mean less gain from cam gears as that is effectively what you're doing with cam gears.

well yeah the HKS and trust kits are good (though be aware the base model trust LS kits are now made in china). so are the blitz and ARC kits. but they are more expensive. the basic chinese intercoolers work 'ok' but they do have some negatives when compared to the better products. they still do the same basic job though and are much cheaper of course. where they sometimes fall over is with poor fitment. so if you're getting a workshop to fit it sometimes the initial cost saving gets eaten up by bigger install costs.

well the little power FC miss is pretty common. you can try re-grounding the igniter, try improving the grounding points overall (can add a ground wire kit, it can help). obvious points are spark plugs and coils (check the plug gaps and heat range etc). but it can and does happen with power FCs that they get a little 'hiccup' every now and then. not usually as regular as you describe though. try the basic things first, next time you're at the track try and borrow a set of known good coil packs and see if that helps etc. just basically trial and error till you hit the problem.

in my new car (32 GTR with jun 2.7, 230s, cams, motec) it has a profec b II that was set-up in japan. one interesting thing about this one is the profec B II is set-up with no 'start boost' setting. it just has the % number in (gives the boost level) and the gain number. surprisingly it still ramps up super hard. personally I always use the start boost to get the thing spooled up to near the target boost as quick as possible but it seems to work fine as is. if you are having a play with yours try setting the start boost down to zero and see how it performs. it may cure any spiking problem and in my experience doesn't really increase lag at all.

there must have been something massively wrong to gain that much from just inlet cam timing adjustment. normally you can gain around 30kw at the point you mentioned but most of that gain is in retarding the exhaust cam a bit and advancing the inlet gives about 10kw of those 30. mr stabby, I will have a look for you. i have them somewhere. from memory inlet is same as regular GTR cams (though this has been debated) and exhaust has more duration (248 degree from memory). I still have a pair of N1 cams hear that I took out of my nur motor (they are brand new) when I put tomei cams in it.

I agree. just sell the gear you've bought and buy the right injectors for your original set-up. what an effort changing all that gear just to have 480cc injectors. it's nuts.

will do. got some for you and some for our telly tubby look-a-like mate, rusty. will even throw a few berry's way though he's baby making these days and may not need them. not sure we want russ driving one handed from darwin to brissy though. he is bad enough of a driver with both hands on the wheel!

thanks for the update ben. i'm a bit out of the loop on these things. glad to hear it. a change of management might bring about some positive change in the culture of the place. the way it was managed before was very poor in my opinion. especially the way they treated club hire not to mention the rife nepotism etc. for a facility that is backed by masses of government money and supported by money from club hire it didn't always behave in the public interest.

what a bugger. hope you get the civic through before that window closes mate.

yeah he might cop a fine hamilton style. they are probably still angry at webber over his 'nanny state' comment last year.

oh, and snowy if you ever get cool enough to build an E30 M3 I'll come pump up the tyres for you mate. i have a big hunk of love for the little E30 M3s. a mate has one of the later E30 M3 evo's in japan and I spent some time punting it around there. love it.

mm, golf R kick ass road car but I agree with marlin, probably not capable for keeping up with the emo's in showroom. they are a bit lighter and seem to magically produce serious grunt. at 1540kg the golf is fairly heavy for a hatch and that would probably hurt it over the course of a targa. they are a great car though. I'm seriously considering one for my missus as her daily.

I'm pretty sure the R33 trans cooler is in the radiator... no seperate core.

no, R33 GTR and R34 GTR run 324mm front rotors. 32 GTR vspec is the same and 32 GTR run 296mm rotors.

what's your budget? if you want the "BEST" coil-overs for a R32 you'll be looking at around $8K per corner (around $30-$35,000 for a full set-up). but somehow I don't think that's what you're after. There are good packages at $2,000 and great ones around $4,000-$5,000. and there are plenty of cheap nasty ones too.

yeah the caliper mount lugs are different. obviously the GTR ones are longer so accommodate the 296mm rotor over the GTST 280mm rotor. getting a spacer to convert from 280mm to 296mm is not so great as it's only an 8mm change in radius, so since the spacer is so short you have to offset the caliper. my advice is either get 32 GTR calipers (pretty cheap) and run the 296mm rotors, or keep your GTST calipers and get the caliper spacer to run R33 GTR 324mm rotors. that is a nicer upgrade with a rotor that is quite a bit bigger than the GTST rotor.

if you want more power than 200kw you will need a bigger turbo. that's the basic answer. and as far as fuel economy and reliability it's impossible to have them both with more power. as you make more power you WILL use more fuel. it's simple. to get more power your car must consume more air and more fuel to make it. and of course more power puts more stress on your engine so yes reliability will be reduced the more power you make. look at something like a GTRS bolt on kit. that will give you an easy 250kw. and yes the nistune is the best option for an auto R34.

close to equal is a good idea. doesn't have to be exactly perfect but if there is a big difference it can have an effect. overall you want the lines as short as possible. unfortunately most people re-use the factor GTR set-up which has the solenoid a LONG way from the turbos (usually mounted on driver side near strut tower). mainly because it's easy to put there with the factory vacuum hoses and it's easy to get the wiring through the bung there into the cabin.

that is a weird one! love to know how you sort it out.

I bought a few 6packs of tenga eggs last time I was in tokyo. still got your share marlin. supply will be tough at the moment. I heard the us navy saw a batch of tenga eggs floating out to sea...

don't worry they did the same thing to webber when he drove the harbour bridge in sydney. funnily enough if you time how long it took him to get from pillar to pillar, and then look at how far those pillars are apart you would see he was doing something like 180km/h average. lol. what are they going to do? fine him?

I don't mind them building a track next to my place but I'm not sure they can fit one in surry hills? all the noise I've had is just pissed cnts leaving the brothels of a night, or bloody bible bashing protesters who keep up a 40 day a year 24hr a day protest outside the abortion clinic across the street. nothing like waking up at 2am to hear their chanting and candle waving bullshit. much rather listen to someone bouncing it off the armco (looking at you fatz).

I am talking about pon-cams? see the bit in my post where I say "pon-cams". the other cams are not 'really big cams' either. the HKS cams were smaller than type B pon cams at (from memory) 256 degrees duration and around 9mm lift. midori cams about the same size as well. I've also used N1 cams, but they are sort of a step between standard cams and pon cams at 248 degrees duration. everything i said is from my own experience and I can promise you for this application the best bet is fit some cam gears and tune them. as I said there is no need to remove the head to fit cams so saying you'll do it now while the head is off is not really going to save you any money at all. the smart option is try the cam gears first. it's no risk as if you don't like it and do eventually get cams you can still use them to set up the new cams. all you will have lost is $200 or $300 in dyno time for the initial setup time

yeah i've had 4 or so in various cars of mine and never had a real problem with one. I found on GTRs with small twins that ramp up really hard onto boost they can't bypass enough air immediately and get a tiny spike but apart from that they are great. spike only lasts for a 10th of a second if that so it's not really an issue. when set up right they hold very stable boost.

yellow top 444cc injectors, top feed.