Beer Baron

wow! that is some serious power mate. what's the curve like? any chance to drive it yet? if not I bet you are aching to give it a bootful. well done.

yeah I have seen jim bouncing his porsches around for years. he seems to like them pretty stiff with lots of spring. it doesn't seem to slow him down too much, he seems to run quite short travel shocks too, I mean the things are pretty low but don't have uber rebound either as it picks wheels up pretty easily from pics and footage i've seen. maybe it helps save tyres if you can get the wheels off the deck now and then? lol. and yeah maybe jim was referring to white but jim is not exactly doing it tough for budget either... the lambo may be a weapon but i'm not sure the GT2 would be far behind on outright pace. would be interesting to see white in the GT2. don't get me wrong I love jim and think he' a fantastic steerer, I just can't stand when people try to always cry the underdog story when he's clearly not.

good choice. the stahwille tools are good. hazet is good too. I'm still pretty fond of snap-on and have had tools that I got second hand and they have lasted me 15 years plus how ever long they lasted the first owner. and I've always had warranty honoured. all the mechanics I've worked with have all used snap-on and they use their tools a lot more often and harder than I do. any problems they have had have been replaced under warranty regardless of how old the tool is. I do agree though that snap-on quality has dropped a little bit in the last 5-10years though they are still one of the top tool makers in the world, and certainly not rubbish. they are definitely over-priced though. 20 years ago there is no doubt their tools where streets above the others, especially if you work with hand tools every day. now they are good but not so clearly 'the best'. if you can afford them though snap on still make great gear and have good warranty support in aus. for side cutters and pliers Knipex are the go. they are the best i've used and their designs are often copied. I've found the kinchrome stuff to be a little bit hit and miss. some of the stuff is fantastic. some of it is a bit average. but they do offer good value for money and most of their tools are certainly good enough for home/hobby use. I will say I don;t think I've ever had a really bad experience with their stuff, just some that was not 'fantastic'. Joe was asking about thin wall sockets for wheel nuts. there aer some out there (i forget the brand) that make thing wall sockets for wheel nuts that have a plastic sheath on them too. great for using with rattle guns as the sockets won't mark your wheels (if they touch the plastic just wears down a little). this is what they look like: duncan is right on the torque wrenches. the deflecting beam type wrench is by far the best. they can be expensive though but they work. I've had a cheap kinchrome torque wrench and it had to be re-calibrated 3 times. I wouldn't use it for anything important that's for sure. now I just use it as a breaker bar... some great tool ideas in here. I like the snap-on spring type hose clamp remover. very clever.

yeah you may find a problem at WSID. best to check with them. it's silly as the AS standards are for motorbike helmets which have completely different requirements to car helmets. FIA is the right standard for a car helmet, it mainly just means since it has no AS sticker you can't use it on a motorbike. it's a long way from being useless though. bell make great helmets and FIA standard is fine for pretty much every type of circuit racing I can think of.

will be cool to see walter rohrl there but not sure how he goes these days at 65. I had to laugh at this quote from Jim richards in the same article. Legend Jim Richards, on the other hand, will be running a brand-spanking 911 GT2 RS. "I guess for us it's a bit like Walter (Rohrl) in that San Remo Rally," smiles Richards. "We've got an exceptionally good rear-drive car that is pretty close to being a standard road car and we'll be up against some highly-tuned all-wheel drive cars built to go rallying." !!! come on jim. standard road car my arse cheek. walter rohrl was driving a porsche agaisnt a factory audi quatro (with more power and more grip). big difference... the GT2 is just about the biggest weapon you can buy for tarmac rally. I don't think the guys in those "all wheel drive racing cars" would see it as an underdog..... fair credit to jim, he is one of the best touring car drivers ever and one of the bet tarmac rally drivers ever too and has put a lot into getting the best out of those porsches but I'd hardly rate a fully prepped brand new GT2 as being at a disadvantage againt an evo or wrx or even R35.... There would be very few cars out there with as much power and torque as the porsche and plenty would be happy to have it's grip and chassis balance too.

thank god someone mentioned it. the difference between vet and webber is easily put down to the weight penalty webber carries. it's probably less that meaning that if the weights were equal webber would have most often qualified in front of vettel. think of all those sessions where it was a bees dick between them. like a few hundredths of a second. and then remember webber carries more weight every lap he's out there. dundan! you're a bitter old bastard these days. webbers a champ. I'd like to think I' enjoy watching him regardless of where he's from. but the fact is he is an aussie and a good bloke and he can steer.

well glad that helped someone. but yeah the VIN numbers do not always contain the chassis numbers. so it's not unusual to see one with 6T91MP or 6M91MP etc. you can always get the chassis number off the original nissan build plate though. it should still be there. the old system was stupid. it's far better what they do now where they just re-use the chassis number and prefix it with 6U9 and 0's to make it fit our 17digit VIN format.

I reckon the only way to do it is buy one already done like the one that was on import monster at USS T. import is as a race only vehicle. once you have it here, buy a regular RX7. swap all the veilside gear, wheels etc everything over to your aus car. put the aus cars bits onto the import. sell the import with it's now standard bits on it as a race car (that is all you could sell it as, it could never be registered). then get the now veilside modded aus car registered (if you can) and enjoy. but your budget is about half what it should be. I'd say double it to $60K and you'll get there. you may recoup some money from the sale of the race car though.

be interesting to see what the flood damaged 35 goes for. but as the other guys said buying flood damaged cars is a bit of a lucky dip. the odds start to stack against you a bit though when it's a car like the R35 that has a computer for bloody everything, if there is corrosion in the electronic components then it could get super nasty. you can remove some of that risk in older cars with more basic on board systems but in a 35 it's a big gamble.

80mph? must have been a very twisty section of autobahn or he was accelerating from a standstill! last time I was driving there people in basic renault clios etc were mostly flat out at well over 100mph and anyone with a porsche or ferrari etc was a blur at somewhere over 220km/h. hell even in my little audi A6 it was a constant 100mph+ with some spurts higher to overtake... maybe he should give up the ferarri and buy a clio? they seemed to have no problem overtaking at 80mph. in fact I'm not sure what you'd be overtaking at a measly 80mph though as even the trucks there are hauling pretty fast. maybe he was overtaking a pushbike?

yeah sadly ARC is not currently an option. I would look at nismo instead. they are pricey but very good just like ARC are (were?)....

well done mate. sounds like a good effort. hope it lives for a good while.

it has a T piece which fits into rear turbo oil drain. so it just shares that.

r33 racer has given the answer. it's as simple as hooking up a vacuum gauge on the dyno and see what it's pulling from the head. and he's given some figures to go by. and yeah no need for catch tank. the oil system is working properly and scavenging oil and vapour from the crankcase which comes out the 'breather' with the oil returning to the system.

for 10.5s I'd got a 265. depends a bit on brand and type of tyre as the actual width can vary a bit despite having the same size rating.

tein mono-flex is a good choice. they will be fine. as for swaybars if you like upgrade the rear first and see how you like it. if you find it too oversteery then by all means upgrade the front too. the whiteline bars are ok, just don't always fit 100% and are very heavy solid spring steel. the cusco ones are pretty good, light, but not adjustable. ARC even better but $$$$$. castor rods go straight for cusco. good quality 3 piece rods ends with good silicone boot to protect it, easy to adjust. hicas is pretty easy to remove on a 33 GTR. there is heaps of info throughout the forum.

yeah I guess the downside of all the neat storage is you quickly can add a few hundred kg of tools, wheels, tyres, spares etc. I mean even just one spare set of rims with tyres mounted is ~100kg. it would be 'interesting' with a full weight R35 and 300kg of gear on it! still if it works well then the convenience will be pretty awesome. for the cost I hope it's kick ass! I just find it hard to put so much faith in 2 little axles but that is probably lack of imagination on my part. it will certainly be nice to load the thing flat on the deck...

then i stand humbly corrected. in that case they are a viable option for sure.

unfortunately it's bloody expensive restoring these cars properly. check out the samco kit. it comes with a fair few hoses but yeah the cost is not cheap (no idea off the top of my head but I'd say $200-$300).

nismo ecu or not you cannot change injector size without a re-tune and no nismo ecu is tunable here in aus (or anywhere else for that matter, they are set by nismo and that's it). 100% as long as you fit the same size injectors you have now you will not need a re-tune. it's not hard to change injectors, basically release the pressure from the rail, then start unbolting stuff. my advice would be pull out one of the working, non-leaking ones and get it cleaned and tested. shouldn't be more than $20 or $30 for 1 injector. they will tell you what it flows (i'm betting standard 440cc). if they are standard just buy some used standard ones, get them and the rest of your old ones cleaned and flowed too then install them. there should be plenty for sale in the for sale section. usually pretty cheap too. you can also use RNN14 GTI-R SR20DET injectors (no real advantage except they come in 4s so you don't have to buy 6). cannot use any other SR20 inecjtors though.

if you are scavaging from the covers it's probably not a bad idea to regulate the vacuum. they can suck pretty hard. hopefully a few others running dry sump RBs will chime in with their experience. but with it all set-up correctly blow-by will be practically zero.

if you already have a 32 GTR, don't bother buying someone elses used diff. just get your diff rebuilt with the nismo plate upgrade. makes your old 32 GTR diff nice and new and perform just like a off the shelf nismo 2way. I have one kit spare at home, cost $330, very simple to fit any competent mechanic of diff place can do it. the other bonus is no need to reset the CW and pinion backlash etc as you are re-using your centre back in the same housing.

thanks for the offer mate, but I already own 2 X R32 GTRs. probably will sell one of them soon too as 1 is more than enough at the moment. 440kw is a bit more than 'sorted' too! I would say my second 32 with 350kw is sorted but 440 is just hang on and see where the car takes you.

yeah twinkle toes. the silver ones with the black bushes and sliding adjustment be nismo. price just gone up 100%! lol.

forgot to say the storage options etc on that nevco look very cool. if it tows well and is safe and stable then it will be the daddy of trailers. the single axe thing still has me a bit nervous about using one for a 1800kg car.