Beer Baron

personally I reckon a big car like an R35 on a single axle trailer is not a recipe for success. it would mean well over 2,000kg (more likely close to 2,500kg?) on 2 tyres. even the R35 itself gets 4... the pressure on those tyres would be pretty immense and I would say a blowout would be pretty nasty with that much load on board. a simple 2 axle trailer works well. no where near the cool factor of the super low alloy trailers like that one but safety wise they are solid as a rock. as the guys pointed out they are also much less sensitive to load balance too. having said all that I've never personally tried one of those particular brand trailers and if they assure you it will work then I guess you have to make a judgement on their skill and honesty. $500 per tyre for the trailer is pretty nasty though and they will have to be 'special' tyres (like the ones they put on tom cruises car in days of thunder) to handle 1,500kg each. it does look nice and easy to load though, but from my own experience I'd sacrifice a bit of load ease for towing safety and stability. at the other end of the scale a mate of mine (Alan Lewis) runs a number of cars including a quick porsche in nsw historics. he uses a big old (and I mean OLD) truck with ramps that must be about 30 degrees (looks like even more) incline loading up to the pantec. the floor of which would be easy 8ft or higher from the ground. clearance each side of the car at entry is 9/10ths of bugger all and i've seen him launch that thing up there at about 40km/h and still stop it inside the truck without punching his way out into the atmosphere. how he does it I have no idea! it's like watching a circus act seeing him load that thing. especially if he's been punted around a bit in the course of the race as he wants to get it loaded quick so he can hop out for the possible post race punch on!

you are right. standard RB26 is apparently 0.77. got me fked now how the sard 700s manage 0.65 but I remember it clearly having sold and fitted so many to various GTRs over the years. I could recite sard injector lag time figures in my sleep...

fark you are challenging my memory!!! off the top of my head standard was 0.4X (0.4something) and sard 700s are 0.65. it's easy to find, plenty of tables around with lag time figures for common injectors. trust me they are wrong. there are no yellow 555cc top feed RB26 injectors I know of. that part number is definitely for the yellow nismo side feeds used on ECR33 RB25. nengun is actually wrong more often than you'd think with mix-ups between GTR/GTST etc. it happens to everyone a bit though.... people often assuming BCNR33 just = R33 etc.

for sure! it's definitely the cheater car to have for all your tarmac rally needs. at $300K it's actually not super expensive either. we know what people spend on other cars to get them "tarmac ready" and no doubt it would be a quick thing. 300kg lighter goes a long way to solving one of it's biggest handicaps which is punishing brakes and tyres so hard. hopefully with that much less weight it would use what it has much better. still won't make it sound half as angry as white's super lambo... and I'm all about the sound...

fking hillbilly!@#$!

they are a great idea. the downside is they are a tough design to make work. that is i'm not sure how much if any play will develop in them. dave loftus has used a set. I haven't used any personally myself yet so I honestly don't know. but the idea is sound. as for the isc gear being same as other chinese stuff? no comment..... i haven't used it. the entry level jap stuff is not so expensive these days. (most of) the cusco bits are good quality and very functional and not too expensive. and what drj81 said about rear bushes. the only reason i didn't go that way is by the time you buy bushes for the inner and outer mounts, have them fitted, fark around adjusting them (as he said outers pretty much impossible on car with wheels on) and then find at your ride height you STILL have too much camber, you could have just bought adjustable arms (like cusco) for similar money that last well and give more adjustment. the only thing to be aware of is they do of course give more NHV vs bushes but it's never really bothered me too much.

no. they don't. that part is for RB25 SIDE FEED INJECTORS. which are yellow and are 550cc but ARE NOT RB26 injectors. RB26 injectors standard are yellow, are top feed, and are most likely what this dude has (as sean pointed out). very unlikely someone would convert their RB26 to side feed, high impedance injectors and then buy the most expensive injectors around to gain 110cc... it would be like a $1500 exercise when they could buy bolt in sard 700s for around $700. I'm still wagering this bloke has stock ecu and stock injectors.

cars will still detonate even when super rich. in fact go too rich and it causes det. a car with 30% more fuel and ign timing suitable for 105+RON E85 being suddenly run on 98RON ULP is not going to be a happy car. it would almost certainly be pinging with that much fuel and the high amounts of timing people run in an E85 tune.

yeah a bit too low with too many breakable aero bits for a tarmac rally car (and most probably illegal in more ways than you could count) but like snowy said, it'd make a kick arse track (circuit) car. here's hoping they don't just crush or museum them all after the series....

yeah it's entirely understandable to have zero to no interest in road cars when for 30 - 40 weeks a year all you are thinking about is driving your 7 speed, 800+hp, super duper F1 car. as they all pointed out no road car on the planet offers anything like the limits those guys are used to. anyone who can punt an F1 car hard can surely drive most anything pretty close to it's limit. and as the years have gone on the gap between road cars and F1 cars has surely widened a fair bit too.

if on a budget in the rear go cusco rear upper arms and ikeya traction rods (or any brand traction rod really, just that from memory cusco don't make 32 ones, if the do now just get both in cusco). rear camber is adjustable from the factory though (not much). have you adjusted it out using that? still if you have over 2 degrees neg the factory adjustment won't be enough to get to a more sensible amount. again though it depends on what tyres you're running.

the wing! my god man the wing! it's huuuge. looks pretty cool though overall. would be nice to pick up some used GT3 R35 shells in 10 years time.....

yeah it was pretty good, but lay off the poor bloke!!

then you're in the zone!

yeah it will solve your leaking fuel out of filler neck issue for life! just don't drop shit down the hole as there's no flap any more!

of course they are cheap. they are re-manufactured injectors (or at least they were, they are much pricier now so perhaps they are new new injectors not used re-manufactured ones). but I believe they are nicknamed deathworks for a reason...

mixing oils is not such a great idea. but the big cough of black smoke is what worries me. what did the operator say when it happened? just to be cautious I would spend 30min doing a compression test and leak down test too. if there is something wrong you want to know about it now. no point just letting it go crossing your fingers that it's ok only to have it let go in a big way a month from now. that amount of black and then white smoke is not normal on the dyno so something happened. you just need to find out what.

either oem or samco. unlike the cheap shit the samco ones are good and actually last.

that will not even be close to working mate. an E85 tune then run on regular pump 98 with octane booster won't even be close. it will be so rich the car will barely run. I would strongly advise to not even consider running 98 (without or without any octane booster) on an E85 tune it just wont work and even the best octane booster on the market (bit of a misstatement as they are all rubbish) won't raise your 98RON fuel much past 99RON. so you'll be going from an ethanol rich 105RON fuel to a 100% petrol 99RON fuel, then tune will be about 20% too rich and timing WAY too advanced. not good. if you really want to run on 98 and E85 then you need 2 tunes and a way to switch them over as needed (datalogit).

you can buy a short patch loom (call field extender or some such). it's used when people need to add stuff to their car that needs factory sensor signals but don't want to start hacking into their wiring. it basically has a female ECU plug on one end and the normal male plug on the other to extend the look a little. if you have everything but the ecu plug then I would buy one of those (about $100). cut off the female plug. then attach the wires to the ones now coming out of the male plug. the wiring diagram for the ecu connector is easy to find so that shouldn't be too hard. they look like this:

2 pieces of advice. don't buy a used crank if you already have a used 32 crank. the reason is so often people buy a used crank only to find it not straight and is un-usable. and at $500 it's an expensive lesson. if you have your 32 crank by all means use it with the collar. with a collar fitted there is no difference to the 33 crank. in fact depending on the material of the collar some would argue it's better than the factory machined oil pump drive on the 33 crank. use the money getting the crank drilled, cleaned and grubscrewed etc but if it were me, I'd seriously consider buying a NEW r33 crank. if you have any contacts in USA with nissan parts you should be able to buy one fairly cheaply (somewhere between $1000 and $1500). otherwise get your crank checked for straightness and journal wear first, if ok then continue with getting the collar fitted and the crank prepped. yes the 2JZ type drive is the way to go if you want to spend serious money on a standard type oil pump system. unfortunately no one makes it yet but it won't be long... it looks like so (this ones a 2JZGE pump but the drive is basically the same as GTE): drive collar would be similar to this:

yeah stock turbos will make 270kw with some cam gear adjustment, 15psi and a good tune (my old car did and still does). still different cars get different results. no way to know what the tune is like, or the supporting mods etc or even how accurate the dyno is. at say 20psi I've seen -5s make between 300kw and 360kw. the mid point of around 330kw is about what they should make at that boost. anything more is gravy.

what ecu do you have? if your injectors are yellow you most likely have standard GTR injectors mate. I would say just buy a couple of standard injectors to replace the leaking ones, remove the other 4 as well and get the whole lot cleaned and flowed. the sard 700cc injectors are a great injector mainly because the operate with a response time close to standard (0.65ms) the 800s are 1.15ms. it's not a big deal and it's generally the case that the bigger the injector the longer the lag time between open and closed (it's inevitable) but the sard 700s were (are) a good performer. if you're making 297rwkw your standard 440cc injectors will be maxed but as long as you are happy with the set-up then by all means just replace them and leave it as is. if you change to ANY other injector size you will need the car re-tuned. yes if you slot in some 800cc injectors the car will badly overfuel hence the need for re-tuning.

kaido, if vibration causing nuts and bolts to undo was a serious problem we'd all be fcked with wheels falling off and cars rattling to pieces. I've run sliding arms with bolts for years without them slipping. nissan just switched to the tight arse option of re-selling stock arms with harder bushes (painted silver). the other problem with all the nismo bits is NONE are adjustable so you just have to close your eyes and hope like hell they are perfect for your car, ride height, driving style, spring rate and type of tyre.....ummm. saves on alignment though as you can't change anything except F+R toe and rear camber (just like standard).

you forgot they also have harder bushes in the castor rod, not just silver paint and a few lass mm! yeah the only bit I want is the mounts too. they are a FKER to get out if you are lazy like me and don't want to remove other gear. as you found out nissan decided to utilise the nice big studs they are mounted with to bolt the ABS to the inner guard. thanks a lot!! and trying to get a spanner onto those nuts on the pass side is not easy from memory. the old nismo arms should be quite useful if anyone could find some that were still in good shape and providing they go short enough.