Beer Baron

why not just hold one in nigeria? I am email pals with this bloke reverend Hamil Umpty whose dad passed away and left him 100million USD DOLLARS to get out of the country. he has asked me to invest it for him and will give me 10%. I reckon I could hook him and bernie together and they could talk business about a race in nigeria with the good reverends money. should be a winner. maybe a street circuit in port harcourt?

ask them to buy some striped paint and a pack of left handed screwdrivers too. they'll need them to install the cam bearings.

wow, that is the first nismo pump failure I've heard of. I've never personally seen or had one myself and until now had not heard of one. the longest I've used one is 6 years and it's still going. I've only ever owned one walbro and had to replace it once in 2 years. and heard of plenty of bosch failures too (granted many due to improper installation) but until now had not heard of a nismo failure.

and it's not standard. there is no standard turbo timer. was most likely added as part of the alarm/immobiliser system.

yeah that's why I was asking. they are not percentages of 'maximum'. stock boost is about 0.7-0.8.

stock 33 GTR pump is only really good enough for stock 440cc injectors. for your sard 800cc injectors a nismo pump will do fine and is the best option. it's actually a bit under your injectors. at 100% duty your injectors flow 4.8L min = 288L/ph. nismo pump flows 276L/ph so it's a bit underrated for your injectors but you'd have to be mad to be running them at 100% anyway. just buy the nismo pump.

agree. first thing is stop filling the sump over-full by 2 litres. that is probably part of the problem. like adriano said I would do half a litre for starters and I would be switching to a 10W40. standard oil from new was a 7.5W30 from memory (and a mineral blend at that). but either way a 10W40 is a much better option. try it.

lol, you'd think people in F1 could afford not to have to go to 'kwik kopy' for their pirated F1 material.... but it's been proven they are just as dumb as all the other corporate criminals.

another old seaman here. I mean sailor. started as a young boy racing juniors then flying ants, 125s, flying 11s, lasers ,then on to 16ft skiffs. then on to offshore yacht racing. still enjoy the little boats though. nothing like hanging out on trapeze on a skiff or even a 125 etc with a good wind up just inches off the water doing 15knots feels like a fairly good clip! the downside is now at 6ft2 and 'ample' in size I'm not quite as nimble off the trapeze and under the boom for a quick tack as I used to be as a teenager. that's why I like cars. just up the power. on a boat there is only so much sail you can run!! but power is only limited by your wallet. and I can still bend myself into the odd exige, formula ford etc and other stupid tiny cars.

nice! it fairly hauls down the straight and I must say they make a nice noise.

you won't run out of legs at most tracks in aus even with 400kw with stock 5th gear and 4.375:1 diffs, well except bathurst and maybe P1 as you enter the straight there around 160-180km/h. You would hit the limiter down conrod for sure. let me ask any GTR owner even with 400kw or 450kw how many can put there hands up and say they have ever hit the limiter in 5th gear with either 4.1 or 4.375 diffs? as far as the speedo goes you can get it recalibrated, or it may be possible to use a GTS4 sender (never tried that option). 240k at eastern creek is pretty fast for 300kw. but even still with 400kw you're like to get to 260 or so.

lol. umm maybe 200km in 4th gear. stock GTR gearing with stock diffs will get you 300+ (providing you have the power and the length of track to get there). with GTS4 diffs top speed drops to around 260-270ish. but you actually have a chance of getting there. acceleration is pretty lazy in 5th with stock diffs and not too much power. which is why people go to 4.375:1 for better acceleration.

I can do it tk80. I have imported R35 GTRs under SEVS, as personal import and as race rally car all without issue. happy to help you import one if you need. can easily explain it to you.

mate even in japan there is nothing good for $700. about the cheapest half decent car you can buy in japan is still going to be more than $3,000. compliance on a stagea is going to be around $2500. shipping maybe around $1200 but add customs, AQIS, port fees and cleaning which is another $600 or so. look at the stagea's for sale here. whateveer they are going for it's going to cost you about the same (or maybe more) to import one. there is no massive profit margin in importing cars these days.

looks cool. would also love to hear what was diagnosed in the end? have you done any more events in it since July last year dom?

I imagine you are right. the smack will be laid down and the dissidents will quietly watch the F1 on their gold plated televisions.

maybe I could win the over 3Tonne class? then maybe someone would buy it!!! i could open the back doors and swallow and RX7 if it will help me.

the real racers I know don't put down any form of motorsport. ok maybe regularity. lol. just kidding regularity fans, don't hit me with your walking sticks! but seriously (and this is not directed at djr81) the guys I know who love motorsport enough to spend most weekends working on their car, along with spending the GDP of a small west african nation on parts, they don't have time to pur down any other type of motorsport competition. they are too busy enjoying whatever the hell it is they do. Personally I love supersprints and have been doing cams sprints on and off (mostly off lately) since about 2002, I love improved production and have been watching mates race in it for over 10 years, same goes for combined touring, and prod sports, and careera cup (RIP) and even v8 super-poopers. hell I even watch nascar sometime. there is always some good in any form of TOP LEVEL motorsport. and as far as sprints go 'time attack' is that top level where the big boys come out. if it's not for you then no ones putting a gun to your head. no need to try and figure out what attracts people to it. who would have thought guys like dave loftus and geoff brandstater who have been running cars in various IPRA classes (and winning) for years and done combined touring (and wining) too would have been interested in 'just a sprint' but they were and they developed their car to suit the format and did bloody well and hopefully they'll be back again.

LOL!!! I love you noel. you're all right for a queenslander. Now that's how you pick a fight!!! he's got your number fatz. next time call the thread "fatz goes drinking, sometimes talks about racing" poor fatz, trys to stir things up and it gets all personal on him!

make no mistake I was not advocating H over I beam. my point is that in the real world were we have plenty of I beam and H beam designs that will take up to 200hp per cylinder just chose whatever you want. my whole point was the bloke writing off H beams as rubbish was wrong. there are as many good H beams out there as I beams. Some of the BEST rods out there are H beams (like the tomei ones above). coincidentally the tomei rods are pretty cheap out the US these days with the strength of the AUD. $1200 USD for a set of tomei rods tells me I will be using them next time (that's if the current ones ever need replacing....). they have some nice design features like the shoulders, no nuts (thread cut into rod instead), little cuffs to ensure god fitment of the two halves and the fact that they are forged as two seperate pieces instead of 1 piece that is then cut in half.

Would most likely have popped through the oil filters drain back valve too as if oil was being fed through the filter the wrong way the rubber flap that stops oil draining out would been stopping flow but I guess eventually it just would have forced it's way through.

mate, you are always there for the little guy when needed. I'm going to ring up all the people I've bad mouthed you too and tell them i've changed my mind. tomei h-beams in the post. in all seriousness the debate between H vs I beam rods can and will go on for ever. what makes it tough to rule one design better than the other is different manufacturers use different materials. so if comparing a cast I beam to a forged H beam which do you think is stronger? on top of that there are variations in every manufacturers interpretation of an I beam design and an H beam design so even among the same 'type' the designs vary quite a bit. a little more meat here and a bit less there and suddenly the strength of the rod is greatly affected. there are a few important things with rods. material. what grade of alloy is used? forging (there is a vast difference between the quality of forgings between manufactueres - I won't even mention cast rods as I don't know of any aftermarket company making any for RB engines) design (I don't mean H beam or I beam, I mean the design of the rod, where is the weight concentrated? where is the rod weak? where is it srong? is there strength in all the right places?) Track record - who has used these rods before? what kind of power are they handling? how are they performing in competition? how many sets have they sold? quality control - are they all the same weight? what kind of tolerance are they allowing for the size of big end and little ends? how good is the finishing? after all those considerations then maybe you can think about I beam vs H beam or throw in X beam too if you're feeling frisky. anyway, some info on tomei H beams. there is a small section on why they make H beams over I beams but the fact is regardless of the type they are great rods and proven many times over to handle very high cylinder pressures in engines up to 1200hp in a 6 cylinder. http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/inf/pdf/121_AE-11x17.pdf

yeah I can't imagine your engine will be alive. if the cooler was plumbed up so nothing was flowing through it (i'm not sure how btw?) then that means oil was coming out of the filter head area and then going no-where. but if you just have one 'out' hose and one 'in' coming off the engine filter head adapter then it shouldn't matter which way you connect them to the cooler. oh wait, i see. you hooked the engine 'output' line to the remote filter 'output' instead of the filter 'input'. you could be in trouble, might get away with it. but if the engine is still running then that's a pretty fair sign it will be ok.

could be a different colour? I'm not sure.

ash no one is talking about R31s except you..... the bloke has a 33 GTST which come with a viscous lsd and he's right they are crap.