Beer Baron

do you mean crown or pinion? they are two different things though it's possible you broke both. the crown wheel is what's bolted to the diff centre. the pinion gear is what drives it. and by the way the diffs when bought new don't come with either crown wheel or pinion, you re-use your own standard ones. so all you'll need most likely is whatever bits you have broken.

d'oh! you are not having a good run mate. hope you kept the little tag with the key serial no on it? how did you loose 2 keys? can't say I'm surprised at the $1000 for 2 new ones. though maybe you can get a discount for having 2 coded at once?? maybe see if they'll cut you a deal on a batch of 4 or 5 keys so you don't have to go through this again!!!

read the "power FC FAQ" i'm sure it explains how to set your airlow meters to VG30 (Z32). then go and get it re-tuned with the new AFMS. keep them both.

I would have to say probably 95% of nissan (skyline, silvia, cefiro etc) drift cars I've seen both in aus and in japan from basic street level drifters through to D1 cars still have the power steering intact. possibly guys with little AE86s etc remove it but on a silvia or skyline you are better off with it. some may have problems with cavitation from sustained high revs and fluid boiling from lots of wheel action but that is easily cured with an oversize pulley and a power steering oil cooler. both of which are good ideas for a drift car. but yeah keep it.

age spot showing!!! lol. yes avoid the wallace, go for the grommet. it's true factory head gasket with or without hylomar is fine too but if you want a bit of headroom to run higher boost etc you are better off with a tomei or some other MLS gasket.

I really think the T04Z is too big. they are a very old design turbo that were sort of re-marketed by HKS in the mid 2000's as something new and great (by adding the Z to T04). in reality they are fairly average on the power vs response compromise BUT with some good supporting work can be make to work pretty well. but without all that other supporting work it will be a dog. some small twins like HKS 2530s (or the garret equivalents) are a good match for a 26 and give a great compromise between response and power. 330-350kw in a street GTR is still a shit load of power. if you really want a single consider the new borg warner EFR turbos or the new garret GTX turbos. just sit back for a few months watching various forums and learn from others experience. there is not enough real world experience out there yet to say whether they are worth the premium or not.

lol, sounds exactly like the tourist sessions. except that in them only half the people are wearing helmets and some are diving campervans. now imagine hans moleman in his campervan tootling around as hans stavro blofeld comes up in his full house GT2 porsche thinking he is on for a purple first sector. now that's closing speed!! oh, and scatter around a few suicidal guys on motorbikes around too. some are already in the guard rail or the hospital but there's always plenty on the track to dodge mid corner. make the 24hr sound like a walk in the park, at least the guys in that should know how to drive right?

yeah no worries. it's probably a bit different for everyone, but if you're busy and value your time, and you don't want to have the thing sitting around unregistered for another few weeks and you don't want any hassles then paying them the few hundred to do it for you is well worth it. The only extra cost is whatever you agree to pay them plus about $20 when you transfer the rego. everything else you still only pay once just like if you registered it yourself. I guess if you had a lot of free time and were counting every cent then you'd take the gamble but recently it seems there is 100% strike rate on newly complied imports so you'd have to be prepared for all the monkey work.

JB will usually match and/or beat any package deal you can name. so if you see a place with a good deal go to JB and get them to match the same games/accessories/whatever.

cool pics mate. love orido's supra. it never gets old. HKS day is usually a good one.

I didn't say it was complied without airbags... it was all complied correctly. happy to explain in further detail to any interested party or via pm etc but don't really want to clog the thread with a compliance snooze-fest. but suffice to say it wasn't cheap to comply and like any other car takes some time and money to do properly and legally.

sounds like you have GTR rear cradle and shocks.

no reason not to do it. there is no doubt on the street you are much safer with ABS than without it.

lol, sorry to rain on the discovery trip but I remember back in 2002 doing the key off/key on trick while rolling in 32s to get RWD easily. it disables RWD and ABS. reason is the sensors self check when the ecu boots up and if they are moving it fails the check so goings into a fault and disables ABS and 4WD. however as soon as you come to a complete stop it will complete the sensor check and go back into AWD/ABS. so it only remains in RWD whilst the car is still moving. good fun for easy burnouts back in the day but as duncan pointed out it's a no-no in R33/R34. Fine for R32 though. Well I guess I thought it was cool when I learned the trick 10 years ago, probably so did some Japanese guy when he learnt 10 years before me it back in 1989....

lol, very funny. but if you think we have it bad here with porsche wankers you should try going to a track day in europe or even go to a nurburgring tourist session. nothing like putting around in your rental race car with say 250hp only to have a gaggle of 4 GT3RS's all pass you at once like they are fighting over an F1 grid spot as they blast through the fast uphill section at 280+ only to find you up there arse as soon as the track gets a little sliperry or though anything that requires hitting a few apexes. and the sheer numbers of them! nearly every bloke in germany must have a GT3RS. went to a private track day at Spa F1 circuit in belgium and it was like driving your way through a plauge of porsches. and yes the ferrari guys are worse but thankfully few and far between. PS, I'm not saying all porsche owners are wankers. just that the wanky ones are wankers. and yes I'm jealous and will happily accept any GT3 RS thrown my way and join those manly bavarians and it up around europe. call me Hans.

yeah the racetech seats are fantastic. very comfortable. probably world leaders at this point. pretty pricey though. I still like the velo's on value for money vs quality. having said that in my own silvia is a jap bucket (don't even know the brand), in the GTR is a recaro profi SPA (very good but stupid money for a fairly basic seat), and in the other GTR is an ex V8 supercar carbon Cobra Evolution which is also very comfy. but I have owned a couple of velo GP90s before and for an entry level seat they are damn good.

now that's what you call an MX5! agree it's pretty pricey when you consider an MX5 is sub $10K car, add a few grand for SR20, spend some money on bits and I reckon you could build it for less than the near $40K asking price.

yeah the thing is if you are looking at metal gaskets like tomei etc 1.2mm will actually be a tiny bit thicker than the oem gasket which has a fair bit of crush in it. from memory tomei make a 1.1 and 1.0mm but 1.2mm is the 'default' choice for most builds. the tomei gasket is a good thing and if your doing a rebuild just buy the full tomei gasket kit. it comes with head gasket and exhaust and intake gasket all of which are good quality and includes the oil feed restrictor too. so yeah you'll need the 87mm gasket kit, in whatever thickness you like.

well to be honest if you're going to get the PWR radiator spend the bit extra and get the one with the built in oil cooler. it works very well. you'll need to buy a few bits to get it all hooked up but it's not rocket science. just tell PWR you want the 32 GTR radiator with the built in oil cooler with -10 fittings. it's a bit more expensive from memory. over $1000. maybe $1200 or so. but well worth it. better than spending $950 on the radiator and $1000 on the trust oil cooler kit (as great as it is). but in reality if you are not having water temp problems why buy a radiator at all? my old circuit GTR with 280kw and a good (trust, guard moutned kit) oil cooler NEVER had any water temp issues with the standard radiator.

yeah not exactly a good result. my 32 with stock turbos, stock manifolds, stock injectors, stock cams, stock intercooler, basically 100% standard except for a cat back exhaust, 1 bar boost, and a well tuned power FC ran a 12.4 qtr mile. GET IT TUNED asap. it should be mid to high 11s at this point.

well for starters select VG30 AFM as the airflow meters. but really you need to get it tuned mate. and no don't just run a single one. you then can only measure half as much airflow. why did you change to them if you don't need their higher airflow measuring potential???

are you in NSW? if so the so called 'random vehicle identity inspections' seem to occur to EVERY privately registered import these days. it used to be random and I registered plenty of imports and did not get stung but over the last couple of years it seems much more common to get sent for the inspection. the downside is that A there are only a handful of inspection locations and they may be no where near where you live/work (expect to have to drive 30kms or more each way), and they keep weird hours. the closest one to me keeps hours of something like 6am to 12 midday 5 days a week, and even worse they are usually booked for weeks or even more than a month in advance and in the meantime you have no rego and have to wait. and then at the end of it all you still have to go back to the RTA again, line up AGAIN and go through the whole rego thing again. the stupid thing is they do the 'random lottery' thing right at the end of the rego process, so you'll do all the paperwork, answer all teh stupid questions, they'll print your rego label and get out your number plates and then at the last second tell you your stung. you'd think they'd do it first to save time. and yes it's not un-usual for workshops to charge $100-$300 to register a car for you (on top of the rego costs) as it takes them a few hours 'labour' of going to get the blue slip, going to the RTA, waiting in line etc to get it all done. it's up to you if you think whatever they are charging is worth avoiding the risk of the inspection. on the plus side you won't be double paying anything because they won't pay the stamp duty, you will pay it when you transfer it to your name.

yeah he must have some balls. it would be pretty hard to just focus and keep your eyes forward knowing that every second you don't check the mirrors is likely to be the second a mosler gains a few hundred meters on you in the blink of an eye.

agree that the sprint would be far better than almost any factory seat and certainly much better than any factory 90s skyline seat. purely because at least it doesn't have a hinge and I've seen plenty of skyline (and other similar seats) snap in half so that the back parts company with the base and like in marlins example you end up flying through the cabin getting your limbs re-arranged. especially so in rear impacts. I'm surprised it does meet FIA standards (though they don't say which). In fact there are plenty of fixed back composite seats that don't meet current FIA standards but are still great competition seats. They are still perfectly acceptable for most forms of motorsport in aus. I still think having seen the wireframe seats in a crash I would always go for the fibreglass/carbon bucket as they offer so much more back protection especially in rear impact and side impact situations. I did notice the new sprint model does have a hole for the crutch belt which is an improvement. well I guess then just try out some seats and see what you like comfort wise. I would still go even an entry level fibreglass/carbon bucket if you can, but it seems at least the sprint has improved a bit from the one I last used. I still worry about the wire frame though.

YES IT NEEDS A VENT AND IT NEEDS ONE NOW. you can do some serious damage to your engine by having the crankcase breathers completely blocked (which they are now). either add a vent to the can or as above tee those 2 lines into one and feed it to the tank and use the other 'hole' as a vent. put a filter on it though as under the crankcase can suck in air via the breathers under vacuum and you want that air filtered.