Beer Baron

poor kube. that is devastating, could even be career ending for him. yeah It's surprising more teams don't have clauses in the contracts stating what drivers can and can't do in their off season. look at webber and his farken endurance events. how well has that worked....not. great way to start a season recovering from a few broken bones. I mean if you really want to do tarmac rally, or mountain biking etc surely it can wait till after your (short) F1 career? isn't driving F1 cars for 9-10 months a year excitement enough. I would think you would not want to do anything to jeopardise the small window any driver has in F1. Anyway, I'll be praying for you (or whatever I do in place of prayer) Kube. Hope to see you back on track soon and in a decent car too. bobby kube is without doubt one of the best prospects in the current crop of 'young' drivers and this time out will hurt his progress badly.

there are a few other factors that govern GTR all wheel drive though. not just wheel speed difference between front and rear. but consider that the wheels are driving the dyno not the other way round so yes as you start the car rolling teh rears are moving but the fronts aren't, the ecu then tells the transfer case to pressurise and torque is transferred to the front. anyway, most awd dynos can give you a reading for the front and rear.

if it will really help people sleep at night if I have time this weekend i'll put one of my GTRs on the dyno. run it in AWD, then run it in RWD and see what it gets.

nah it's no where near that much. 400rwkw is about 375-380awkw or so. if you've got 301awkw you would be about 320-325rwkw on most dynos. there is not much difference between AWKW and RWKW on dyno dynamics dynos. certainly not 15%. and it's not a fixxed percentage anywway. the gap does widen a little bit the higher the power level but it's not linear. like it might be 20kw difference at 200kw and only 25kw at 400kw. there is no fixed answer. regardless of that even just different dynos vary a bit even when all reading RWKW or AWKW.

god no. anyone but bruno. surely the kube will pull through. he's polish. some polish dudes cut off their own limbs as a drinking game for chirsts sake. it's all true I swear. though it has been disputed that no polish man is rich enough to have his own chainsaw so they either stole it from work or it was an axe... "Polish farmer Krystof Azninski, who staked a strong claim to being Europe's most macho man by cutting off his own head in 1995. Azninski, 30, had been drinking with friends when it was suggested they strip naked and play some "men's games". Initially they hit each other over the head with frozen turnips, but then one man upped the ante by seizing a chainsaw and cutting off the end of his foot. Not to be outdone, Azninski grabbed the saw and, shouting "Watch this then," he swung at his own head and chopped it off. "

ME SO HORNY!! love it mate. looking very nice now. I think you should let me borrow it for a while. i have too many cars so I'll happily give you a 2 for one deal for a quick swap. it's so nice. nothing un-necessary just all the right gear to go fast. it's probably my favourite car in this section at the moment.

from memory they are a version of the H6S SEQ. not sure what exact model. I think you need to buy the GTR specific one. not just adapt a 'generic' model, though it's probably possible, most likely just need a clutch to match the input shaft, correct length tail shaft and a rear housing or adapter on it to mate to the transfer case. if you're serious about it talk to hollinger, they are pretty helpful. http://www.holinger.com.au/

have seen plenty of albins gearsets in older cars like S1 RX7s etc and other cars getting around in various state series but haven't seen then used in any GTRs or much other modern stuff but that doesn't mean there aren't any out there. the guys with RX7s seemed happy with them, but they are a much lighter car, with mush less traction and much less power than the average GTR. The hollinger is bloody expensive up front but it's still the best "value" option. Yeah it's $20K but they are sequential, 6 speed, light and compact, last well and have fantastic re-sale. a newly serviced one will sell anywhere from $12K-$15K easily.

check the fluid level again. most likely the same problem you had before.

don'r think so. I'm pretty sure getrag input shaft is different to the 32/33 GTR box input shaft in which case your clutch will have the wrong spine pattern on it.

much better off buying a used R32 GTR center. they are 2 way mech diff and last a long time and when they do wear out they are cheap to rebuild to new. not sure they will just bolt in, but if you just used the centre it could just fit in your housing. depedns what diff the R32 NA comes with from factory. I'm not sure. GTR rear is R200, but be aware there are a few different types of R200.

looks good dunc. "breaker breaker, this is lunch box.. over" "lunch box this is pig dog, pit this lap... over." "10-4 pig dog, in this lap. over"

I know it's an old thread but I just saw it. kind of cool project but mainly a dick swinging exercise if it's not going to compete. some funny calls too. and yeah I agree it's going to struggle on 16 inch wheel with 8 inch wide slicks... love the idea of 11.5:1 comp ratio, 2.5bar boost and 11,000rpm... or even better standard pump fuel, 2 bar boost from a T51R. having said that they got a fair way along but like many projects it seems to have dropped off the earth now. would love to see it finished and running.

cool story. good choice with turbo etc. it will be very quick.

yes you could buy new springs for the vspec gear, or even have the current springs cut or 'reset' (i would not advise either as a good option though). If you want a nice stance etc then maybe the S-tune set-up is the go. it does have damper adjustment too which does alter the way the suspension feels so you have some scope to adjust to your taste. I liked it a lot in my last 34 GTR (GTRNUR has it now, maybe ask him what he thinks of them?). alternatively if you get a set of bilsteins they have the circlip height adjustment so you can fine tune the height a bit to suit what you want.

willis, check your steering rack mount bushes. you get this problem like you describe when the rack mount bushes are worn as the rack slides in it's mounts creating strange steering problems. could also be toe settings (get the alingment re-checked and find out what everything is set to), or could be stuffed ball joints or tie rod ends. you really need a suspension specialist to have a good look under the front end. the free play in the front suggests wheel bearings but could be a number of things. just get it checked by a professional asap.

yeah you know the deal. like you say people happily spend $20K on engine bits, or $10K on a paint job etc. From memory a full monty PPG with all the upgrade bits etc is $10-$12K by the time it's installed in a box and set-up. so the hollinger is not that big a step up, and don't forget with the PPG or PAR you have to sacrifice your own box too. where as with the hollinger if you have a working box you can sell it and put that $1K-$1.5K towards the price of the hollinger.

yeah I doubt it's the tune too. if you have tried the unlimited boost trick it should boost hard and fast. it's possible a REALLY bad tune could do this but it would have to be so very, very bad.

sorry but the sparco seats are metal frame too with padding wrapped around. they are no where near as good as a fibreglass bucket that will actually protect your back. in a big accident with a metal frame seat you have dangers of the thing distorting, or even bits of metal stabbing you etc. you will never find a metal frame seat that is FIA approved. look at the next sparco model up if you really want sparco as it's proper fibreglass bucket, or as above ring velo and ask about their entry level fibreglass seats like the GP90. they are very good. if they are out of budget look for a pair of used ones. sometimes you can pick up some from people who ran out of money on their project and have bought seats brand new and had them sitting in a closet for 3 years. can be a real bargain. hunt out ebay etc.

yep, definitely in reach of the average joe. having said that I've probably got 64 wheels if I scrape together all the ones currently in service and the rest sitting the in the garage. ok, just counted and I come up short at just 44 wheels in my possession right now. a measly 11 sets. that's off the top of my head, there may be 1 or 2 more around. spencer it taking the white alfa up for a support race, running in group NC as usual. hope it goes well he's been hanging to get a result up there.

yeah I've hard this weird issue with a power FC before. car was fine till I fried the ecu. ecu was repaired and appeared to work perfectly fine, tune was still in there etc. but the car was lean as hell. would barely run unless I dialled in massive fuel correction. drove it like that for a while just dialling in fuel correction each time. got it in a dyno and apprently regardless of changing the tune the car would not respond. replaced it with a nistune and everything was fine.

I would undo the badness. sell the 33 GTR PFC and coil packs. toss the loom. buy new R34 splitfires and R34 power FC and R34 loom and you are back in business. you can certainly get the MFD to work with the R33 loom but would have to trace and wire up the inputs the MFD needs (actually depends on which part of the loom you replace). but still I would take it back to what it's supposed to have. should not cost much more. might loose $200 or so on selling the 33 PFC and buying the 34 one. maybe loose $300 or so selling 33 coils and buying 34 ones (you can sell the ignitor too cause 34 one are built in). good luck.

replace the power FC. I've had a similar problem and I believe it was the power FC. just borrow one first if you can to test.

yes they are truly plug and play. but if you're concerned tomei even sell a wiring upgrade kit which is easy to fit. yes it will support 300rwkw, they will give enough fuel for 600 or 650cc injectors comfortably or 700cc if you do the re-wire for full voltage. great pumps. I highly reccomend one. I've used probably a dozen nismo/tomei/sard pumps in my own cars. only ever used one walbro in my silvia and was not happy with it and had it replaced.

nice time mate. seriously though what the f was with the cameraman? was he massively pissed or what??? lol. he was turning around, looking at the ground, but of thumb on the lense. it had it all. not what I'd call top shelf cinematography. lol.