Beer Baron

yep, agree with bigmike. yes diff has to come out and yes do them too.

but that's the thing. this guy might not be into it either. he said that in HIS OPINION he thinks his wheels sticking outside of the guards looks wrong and he's right. they are not the correct size and offset for his car. if he wanted wheels sticking out or heavy guard and alingment modifications then he would have said so. read what he said: "Hi guys, I have just bought some 18", 9.5" Wide Alloy Wheels for my Skyline R33 GTST (facelift) The offset was ET20.... this I think is where I went wrong, they look huge on the car which is fine, however they stick out by about 1 or 2 cm (wider than the arch), so no chance of lowering it any more. I am guessing they are meant for a skyline GTR as these have wider bodies.??!?! So now, I have a brand new set of deep dish 18's , with brand new 265/35/18 tyres... and I think I will take them off to go back to standard. " he's right, 18X9.5 +20 IS the common size for R33 and R34 GTRs, yes you can fit any wheels to any car if you're willing to cut and shut guards, or run tubs, or modify suspension, or change hubs, or change PCD or run spacers or whatever but that doesn't make them the correct or even the most common size for that car. I see plenty of 33 GTSTs and I can tell you bugger all are running 18X9.5 +20. it may look cool but without other mods to make them fit they just will not clear and with the mods you end up with a compromise.

yeah they are just replacement steering rack bushes. they hold the steering rack to the subframe. no point replacing them unless the current ones are stuffed. I have those nismo ones in my 32. they are stiffer than standard so I guess add some 'directness' to the steering feel. that also means they will transmit more vibration etc but it's not a big deal. won't do anything for how the car turns etc (unless the old bushes were so stuff that the rack was moving).

well they usually come with two cap screws (M8 from memory) that just bolt into existing holes on the firewall. you need to find out what size and thread those holes are and buy bolts to suit. as for the tomei badge you'll have no luck there. the strut brace themselves have been out of production for ages and even when they were I doubt they sold replacement stickers for them. there is no need to add any additional bracing. it's more for looks than anything. it's not like your firewall will suddenly be subjected to any huge forces.

you car is sadly lacking a few important Series 3 and v-spec features. for starters it's 100% not a v-spec. so it's missing attesa ETS pro, it's missing A-LSD (no loss in my eyes) and it's missing the v-spec suspension (which is a shame as it's good gear). you are also missing the series 3 front bumper and front lip which is one of the most obvious series 3 updates. do you have xenon lights or are they just halogens in the xenon housings? apart from all that you don't even have the STANDARD R33 GTR rear brakes, they have been downgraded to 33 GTST/32 GTR brakes which is a sign someone has been taking good bits off the car. get it checked over thoroughly at a workshop and if you can I would try and get your money back. yes they are only small problems but go and price up how much it costs to buy a series 3 front bumper and lip ($$$$) or a set of rear brembos (also $$$), then price up stuff like series 3 xenon lights etc. it all adds up and mroe than that, the fact that these bits are missing is a sign that the car has been 'raided' for bits, or possibly in a decent accident. get a pro to look it over, but still my advice would be try and get the sale reversed and your money back, or at least some compensation for all the gear you are going to have to buy. not much point paying a premium for a "series 3, v-spec" if it has none of the v-spec parts and is missing key series 3 parts and even standard 33 GTR parts. might as well have bought a 1995 non-vspec and saved some money. at least it would have the rear brembos.

I have not been happy with the koni's i've tried in various GTRs. don't know why as they make great stuff for other models but the GTR stuff has been poorly matched. yeah a set of cheap v-spec gear will be a good starting point and if later you decide you want it to handle a bit better go for the S-tune stuff.

thanks for the pics. wow. some of the cars are really radically changed compared to last year. which I guess is to be expected given the regs. look at the front wings. my god could they get any more complex? not much chop when you bang wheels with kobayashi and loose half ya 'bits' on the first lap though...

mine have all been fine. I've run a few. 2 were with greddy IC piping as well. the other from memory was with an ARC IC pipe kit.

well you can stick a 3pk belt on a 4pk pulley but it's not ideal. I'd flog them and buy the right ones.

Yeah it's funny I used to think a GTR with 350kw drank a lot of fuel till you see one with 350kw on E85... 39s is fairly hauling but like you say from 41s at superlap it should be doable. Your wife is dead right but we do need sheds as sometimes the mechanics workshop is full of dead GTRs with no room for mine and in that case we need to store them at home for a while. My mechanic had the nerve to ask me to come move one of mine so he could paint his floor. bastard. It wasn't even a broken one I just didn't have the space in the garage so was quietly not picking it up for a while.... I love the shed idea.I say why not build 2 and rent one to me? I need to pull my finger out. not long ago 45s at eastern creek was quick in a 32. now it's back of the pack. Especially with berry (and dave loftus too) running in the mid 30s last year and with all the stuff Mark is doing with the 34 I'm guessing it'll be low 30s or even high 20s next time out...

wha? I forgot to do my entry for the SLS AMG. I'm guessing that A: I'm now too late and B: there was some other task I had to complete apart from shelling out $$$ for the game which promised me an entry in a draw to win an SLS AMG? arseholes.

that's pretty good for such a big unit. How'd you like the GTR now on E85? Are you happy with the tune/power etc? I'm thinking about switching my new car over as well. It's already got 1000cc injectors which by the sounds of things may only just be enough. I'll need another fuel pump though for sure, current one is a single and only 280l/ph. Yeah the RS was a real find, but I am in deep shit with my 'lady friend' as currently at home the garage is now full of my 'stupid' cars and our daily is now out on the street. I need to clear at least one space quick smart or I might be living in a car soon. My RS would be perfect for tarmac rally stuff. Just needs a good cage and away you go. It was set-up at Cyber in Japan for the owner who wanted to get into gymkhana and motokhana type stuff which is pretty popular over there. All the diffs etc are sorted, has the ohlins nicely set-up and the close ratio box is great. Lovely tune in it too. If I were keeping it I'd just put it onto E85, cage it and have some fun. At the current rate I may well have it in 6 momths too!

for the money they are not a bad option mate. just don't buy our black STR as it's fking thrashed!!! it's been chipped and running as much boost as it could handle from about day one and from memory spencer has had it briefly under water (less said about that the better). actually no that was the CRV he put into the drink. the navara has also been loaned out to the aforementioned geniuses who have done all type of crap to it (like the jockey wheel incident), but so far it holds up well and has done a shedload of kms with plenty of my trips to Oran Park, EC and wakefield and trips to bathurst, winton, PI, even QR. it's been around. it tows quite nicely at speed (110-130) but at that speed it drinks the diesel something fierce as it's always on boost. much more economical if you are not in a hurry and can sit on around 100km. having said that if brighty will sponsor me I'll happily jump into a toureg or even a 200 landcruiser. the new V8 diesels make 200kw same as the petrol V8 but have a 6 speed auto box and 650NM of torque! thank jeebus they have a 90something litre tank as you'll need it.

fair enough, but who'd want a GTR? I still have 2 GTRs of my own plus the RS evo6, silvia and a couple of other less mentionables. Hell I'll lend you one of mine (pls fix any problems you encounter with it along the way)..... seriously though that toureg must be GTR like in fuel consumption. I'm guessing in the 20L/100km range? but there is a lot to be said for travelling in comfort and style and a richly tuned GTR with some stonk easily dips into the 20s as well.

the pump will be attached to the bottom of the tank with some clip type system. you'll need to push it one way to unclip it then you can lift it out. get your hand down in there and feel around. just follow the fuel line coming through the tank lid and it will leave you to the pump. just don't force it too hard, try sliding it sideways etc till you feel it budge off it's clips.

aardi they are all saying the same thing mate. basically stay away from mail order chips or ecus. your car needs to be tuned in real time with the tuner in the car. all cars behave differently so a mail order tune is a waste of money and could potentially damage your car. best bet is save for a nistune upgrade and tune of your factory ecu.

I think what others have done is cut down the bolts to make them shorter. either way best bet is to task hypertune what they recommend. that extra runner length will change the behaviour of the intake so it may be desirable to have it, or may not be.

ok, yes that is not right. being an R33 GTR you should have brembo calipers front AND rear. someone along the line has taken/sold your nice rear brembo calipers and replaced them with cheap GTR/GTST sumitomo (nissan branded) calipers. you're fronts look fine and there is nothing wrong with having slotted rotors front but not rear, but sadly you don't have the right model rear brakes on your car and rear brembo calipers and rotors are hard to get for R33 GTR. this is because many 33 and 34 GTR owners upgrade their front brakes but not the rears so not many rear sets are in circulation and those that are usually get snapped up by 32 GTR owners who have fitted front 33 GTR brembos and want matching rears. Luckily there is not a huge difference between the rear 'nissan' brake set-up and the rear brembo set-up so it should not be causing any severe brake balance problems for you but it's definitely not right. if you bought this car from a dealer I'd be going down there and asking them to fit the proper brakes for the car. having 'downgraded' brakes on a car may actually be illegal. nice wheels though. one of my favourites. I've had them on both my 32 and 33 GTR.

yeah I still think something like matts S tunes or the ones on yahoo would be the go. they have remote canisers on the front, have suitable spring rates, they also lower the car about 30mm and are great quality. they are THE bargain suspension upgrade for R33/34 GTR. they are around $2500 new so are by no means a 'cheap' shock and are made in japan. They are also damper adjustable.

you really need to get under your wheel arches and see what's rubbing on what. could be tyre touching inner guard liner, or even suspension etc. find out what the noise is first before you take action, but if you think it's a bit too low then by all means raise it up a bit.

my advice if you want sharp steering and for the car to feel more 'pointy' you can get most of it with alignment. bushes will give you some castor but adjustable rods will give you a lot more. get some adjustable rods and run as much castor as you can whilst still being able to run 2-3 degrees neg camber. as for toe if you really want it to turn hard and fast you'll need to run some front toe out. keep trying a bit more at a time till you hit the sweet spot. with a decent amount of toe out at the front and a fair bit of caster you'll be amazed at how different it feels.

hang on, do you mean your rear calipers are nissan branded? or is it just the rotors? rotor brand is not really important and slotted vs non slotted again not so important. nissan pads probably fine in the rear. it's quite common to see people upgrade front pads but not rears. post some pics of what you mean it may help sort this out.

unfortunately troy is pretty much right. if you want a bullet proof box that you can really pluck gears hard and fast then your only real option is hollinger. yes they are $20K but for poor folks who've broken a few $6K-$8K PAR or PPG boxes suddenly that $20K looks good. the other thing is maintenance. if you use it hard it needs to be maintained regularly, even more so if it's dog engagement (I know yours wasn't), dog rings are a consumable and need regular inspection and/or replacement. OS is not a bad option but the ratios are more suited to drag racing with a very tall first gear. There is no 'magic bullet'. I kind of agree with troy that the options are stock, or go all out and do the hollinger. you do get some good benefits for your money. it's a more compact box, it' 6 speed, it's sequential, it has fantastic local support and best of all they have great re-sale value. you could use it a few years, pull it out, get any wear items replaced and sell it for not much less than a new one. bear in mind that even the hollinger is not bullet proof though if you don't maintain it properly.

agreed. if they will agree to take on the job for $450 and that's it then do it for sure. people who've told you it costs $1000 are not far off. I's expect most competent places would take 8-10 hours @ $100 an hour and you get $800+ for the work. it has to be done though sooner or later.

yeah I was going to say it's most likely clutch destroyed, or broken clutch release fork. the flywheel bolts need to be cut down to fit an OS twin so if they were sticking out as the clutch wore down they would have been destoying the clutch pretty fast. workshops open on the weekend include envy imports who are very cluey with these kind of problems. my advice was to take it somewhere and get the box off as regardless of whether the problem was box or clutch you need to remove the box anyway to diagnose so no money wasted there. if you want an OS twin I may have one here you could have fairly cheaply. it's a rebuilt one that was rebuilt at OS Giken in japan with all new friction plates and sandwhich plates, pressure plate, then they test the clamping force, reface the flywheel and bolt back together as good as new. I also have the correct height bearing and carrier to go with it too which is also very important. you must use the right length bearing carrier or things go wrong from day 1. I think it owes me about $1300 including the bearing and carrier which are about $130 on their own. it's as good as a new clutch but instead of just over $2K it's just over $1K. If you need it let me know and I'll check if I've still got it in the house.