Beer Baron

Above all the other stuff eps is right about one thing. R32s in japan will set you back anywhere from about $16k to $40k. How much exactly is up to you. I just imported one for myself and it runs in the 30-40k range but it's very neat with lots of gear. I'd advise a budget around $23k for a decent standardish car. The ones for $15k are mostly pretty unloved and an unloved gtr is a repair bill waiting to happen.

Yeah agree with that to a point. Like you say if you're doing the right thing inspections are not a problem. Once a cars submitted it should be all fine so there is no excuse for failing. but some workshops who are space limited will have cars stored at another site etc so it makes sense to give some notice to save wasting dotars time and taxpayers money. Anyway at least you've proven what I was saying. People think it's a free for all but anyone thinking they can get away with sub par compliance is living on borrowed time.

Sounds like you made the right choice mate. Like the motec man told you it would cost a lot to replace and do again and at least you have the car it was installed in so it shouldn't be hard to get it all going again. Cool car too

Agreed! Lol sub 2min... Always wanting to be the underdog. .)

Hehe, will exchange for beer but it'd have to be a few cases at least. Yeah it's a great car. Very nicely modded and like new. Very well rounded, good suspension, good power, reliable and very rewarding to drive. Anyone whose interested just shoot me a pm. I've got my new GTR now and want to get going on it. As usual need the space and $. :-)

some pics:

Hi Guys, I'm putting my EVO VI RS up for sale. It's an awesome car, but my new GTR has arrived and that's the car I want to play with so others have to go. This car was bought at auction in japan by my very good friend Mark Hocking who is a master of spotting the good cars. This car presented very well with some nice mods, plus still all the genuine RS gear on it and NO ACCIDENT HISTORY. It's in amazing condition and so much fun to drive. It's been workshop modified in japan for a bit more power and a nice upgrade to the handling. With LSDs front rear and centre and the close ratio box it's like driving a giant go kart. If you drive it positively (ie on the gas) it just hooks up and turns hard. Great through any twisty roads. For those who don't know the RS model is the special racing model of Lancer EVO's. It's like an N1 model GTR. They are meant as a base for a balls out race car, but do make great road cars too. They have all the gear needed to go fast and are stripped of the luxurys that weigh cars down. On top of being a genuine and low KM RS model this car has been extensively modified and tuned by Cyber EVO. yes the people who built and tuned Tarzan Yamada's 2010 WTAC winning Cyber EVO tuned this car. Full details below. The car details: It's a 1999 Evo 6 RS kms = 49,000 (genuine kms) asking price $31,000 - fully complied and with 8 months QLD rego on it currently The car has an upgraded turbo (exact spec unkown but very responsive and currently putting out 210kw at all 4 wheels) Volk TE37s front and rear (17X9.5 front and 17X8.5 rear = more front track improves handling) Dunlop Super high performance road tyres, 255/40/17 all round. Rays forged duralumin lock nuts Genuine close ratio RS gearbox (amazing to drive) wind up windows as per all RS models no climate control just basic aircon as per RS models lightweight glass as per all RS models RS model seats (different to regular EVO models) Cusco pillow ball upper suspension mounts Front springs 12K Rear springs 9K (springs are SWIFT - the best in the world) Ohlins adjustable coilovers (among the best of the best) ARC twin bar Titanium strut tower bar Cyber tuned ECU (yes the legendary EVO tuners of the Cyber EVO tuned this car) Rear Okuyama Carbing Strut bar and front lower support bar ARC Titanium manifold heat shield Custom carbon fibre radiator mounts Exedey Hyper Compe-R twin plate clutch Front LSD is cusco MZ type Centre LSD is genuine RS LSD Rear LSD is Cusco MZ type (gymkhana spec) Rear Differential mount spacers installed for better diff angle front and rear brake rotors are Marvel type slotted rotors Brake Pads are race spec Garage TT pads Suede momo deep dish steering wheel HKS power flow intake MONSTER Intercooler piping Worksrail custom Suction pipe/intake pipe Beatrush alluminium airbox Tomei Exhaust Manifold Tomei dump pipe/outlet pipe Apexi Front pipe Trust Ti-R Full Titanium exhaust (beautiful sound and super light, 80mm exhaust) Sard sports catalyzer (over $1000 for this proper racing cat) NGK sports plugs (heat range 8) Top Fuel Power NEO Ultra ignition leads D-Jac Earth wiring system Sard Fuel Pump Fuel pump direct wire kit with relay (supplies full power to pump) Trust Profec B II boost controller front windscreen lightweight "speedglass" Body reinforcement for added rigidity (includes some stitch welding etc - all professionally done) Reinforced engine mounts Oil pressure gauge Water Temp gauge Engine Knock gauge (very handy and $$$) Billion low temp thermostat Section Engine Torque damper Cusco Racing model oil catch tank KBC Shift wire PIAA HID Head light kit (genuine PIAA kit) Tomei Sump Baffle kit Tomei Reinforced timing belt upgrade J-speed aluminium pulley kit J-speed stainless clutch hose M Arts front bumper Blitz Shift knob Kenwood Audio IK-7 This is a super fast road car and would make an awesome weekend track toy or as a base for a more serious track car. Genuine RS models are pretty rare and finding one in good road condition is hard. On top of that I do not know of any other genuine RS's that have been fully complied for road use in any state in aus, many have rally rego etc but having full compliance is a big advantage. To take a normal evo and turn it into an RS would cost 10s of thousands and it's still not an original RS. This car has all the goodies plus more and you can see everything on it is top shelf, Cyber tuned ECU, TE37s, titanium exhaust, cusco diffs etc etc. It's a top level car. Car is in Sydney, for further details contact me via pm. PICS to come.

cool. the car certainly looks serious. I am surprised I haven't heard of more sydney nissan customers going to Pulse. They certainly look pretty switched on and have some runs on the board now.

it's called a compressor outlet pipe.... you have compressor inelet pipe (from afm/filter to turbo), compressor outlet pipe (from compressor outlet to IC piping), obviously turbine outlet/dump pipe, and turbine inlet which is the exhaust manifold.

nismo one is actually pretty good. like dave said they do work and return oil to the sump via the turbo oil drain. very neat too. they are expensive but in conjuction with a set of cam cover baffles they are a good solution.

oh, yes those pics on RHD are the correct HKS front pipes. one thing to note, they are quoting ID as 70mmX2 and single 85mm. most other places seem to quote OD which makes these approx 75mm X2 and 90mm single when comparing to other exhausts. I'll still measure mine this weekend, but those are the ones. best front pipes I've ever seen. have flex joint, have very, very nice welding, flanges welded on the inside, good quality stainless, extra thick flanges to help stop distortion and etc etc. they are the goods.

it is for me. that's the ultimate combo I've come up with after trying a few. and having seen results from many others too. I will measure up the HKS pipes this weekend. I have a new set sitting in it's box but not at my house. will be able to get at them on the weekend.

yeah it shouldn't drop the tune. but one thing I'd suggest anyway is ask your tuner for a copy of your tune to be emailed to you. that way should you ever for some reason loose your tune you can just get it reloaded with datalogit and a laptop. 5 mins work.

BINGO. found a pic showing the simple duct. it works wonders. EDIT: make that 2 pics. You can see how much smaller this core is than the other one but I'd say it works just as well if not better. the ducting is so important. I would also consider buying a used standard radiator and shroud and put that on. I bet it performs better than the current china radiator and no shroud combo. and just wait till you pick up a china radiator and compare the weight to a standard one!! china radiator must be about 4 or 5kg. standard one I'd say less than 2kg. and that's empty. obviously the bigger volume of the china ones means more coolant and even more weight. and in my experience they do a worse job than standard of cooling. It's a cheap experiment and takes only 10mins to change a radiator. so I would definitely give it a go.

yeah that stuff can be fairly easily relocated a bit. definitely do a little duct for your core. I'll see if I can find you a photo of mine with the bumper off. it's very simple but works amazingly well. air will always follow the path of least resistance so without some ducting around the core air will just hit it like a brick wall and then flow mostly around the sides of it, not through it like we want it to. it will still work but it works many times better with the air actually flowing through the core not just over it. consider something like this for the intercooler opening too. means you can get away with a smaller (or even standard intercooler) on the track as it's efficiencey improves a lot. actually you can see part of the oil cooler duct here in this very old pic of my car. on the passenger side. also the middle 'slat' is removed to allow more air in there. it channels the air through the core nicely. found another similar pic, possibly a bit clearer. I have one somewhere with the bumper off. will try and find it for you.

well I did work in a hair salon as a teenager to make some cash. i give wicked head......massages and yes the owner did drive a celica (convertible too if I remember rightly). apart from that I dunno, I did bone a chick working there though and that was nice but a bit off topic. I also remember some kind of hair straightener that was in such high demand recently people were doing ram raids for them. perhaps if you had a couple of them and stuck them to the screen it would work, or if not at least you and your co-driver would have nice straight hair...

it should not be wobbly. I can't see the bolts. I acn see one in the bottom of your second pic, can see part of the slot where the second one goes (top left of pic) but can't see any bolt (but it could be out of frame) and I think I can see the third bolt (top right). and yes that is the CAS - Cam Angle Sensor (aka crank angle sensor). it's find where it is but you need all 3 bolts in place as otherwise it might be sliding around which will be affecting your timing.

yeah they are good, but considering their price I would get the HKS ones. they are beautiful, have a flex joint, merge to single 90mm pipe and are twin 70mm (or more, can check this weekend if you like). the HKS ones are about the same price.

since you just changed the spark plugs and now have this issue that's where I'd be looking. check they are the correct type and heat range and that they are gapped appropriately for your set-up.

what type of radiator are you running? if it's a china one and you still have your stockie try switching back to the stock one with stock shroud and see how that goes. I've seen enough GTRs now go backwards cooling wise after fitting chinese radiators. the standard radiator providing it's not got the worlds biggest intercooler in front of it works very well. you got any ducting around the oil cooler? my other 32 has the same trust kit as the one I just pictured but with a smaller core and mounted in the passenger side duct. it runs nice and cool, it has aluminium ducting around the core to channel the air through the core and then our through the exit path holes in the guard liner. are you still running the standard engine fan too?

good info mate. The N1 masters are so fking expensive it's not funny. like a normal GTR master from nissan is about $250 and the N1 and R32 Vspec II are like $450. nuts.

it actually can be policed very easily. say a compliance shop gets a modified car and the customer begs them not to return it to standard as they can't afford it. workshop says ok, they then submit the car to DOTARS online as complied, at this point the car is supposed to be completed and awaiting it's compliance plate to arrive at the workshop. this is the point at which DOTARS will initiate a spot check and they give only 24hrs notice. so no a workshop cannot say 'it's a work in progress' as they have already submitted the car as completed. so if DOTARS arrive to find it not as it's supposed to be it's a big problem for any workshop that would do that. this is why most (should be all) workshops will insist on returning vehicles to standard as it's their business at risk. I would strongly suggest anyone wanting to import a modified car talk to you compliance workshop BEFORE you buy it and ask them what exactly will be involved and what kind of costs you are looking at. that way you can decide up front if it's viable or not.

well the lip is standard then has an undertray/splitter bolted to it. most likely custom.

PS. what exactly is getting in the way? you're welcome to come and check out the set-up if you want. some stuff has been moved around a bit to make room etc. like the power steering bottle etc. check out where it sits. car also has no abs which makes a bit of room (not utilised yet but will be).

well it sounds like you will figure it out. and I know the feeling about the matches mate. sometimes they will just not run right and no amount of logic will defeat them!