Beer Baron

yeah it's still running AC and still functioning too. you can see the AC core is the black core you can see either side of the oil cooler. the radiator is a sard radiator and is unpainted. the intercooler is a trust 3 layer core and is in front. you can see in the pic the radiator is mounted behind the radiator support, none of it protrudes under the support. the air con core is what is mounted under the radiator support and up against the radiator. to be honest I much prefer to mount the core in the passenger side 'brake' duct on R32's. you can use a smaller core and with some good ducting and an exit path for the air cut into the plastic wheel well liner they work very well. my other 32 is like that. this one already had the oil cooler fitted and I think that core is too big to stuff into the area where I would normally put them. it seems to work ok though, but in the guard is better.

it's like you pete. a bit 'rugged' in the looks department but perfectly functional. now drive it over to my place with my exhaust tip and get your clutch too. rock on.

oooh, I'm excited for you. it should kick arse. I can't wait to hear what you think of the ABS.

haha, sprung! I am just as bad though so I shouldn't say anything. neil will sort out your group buy no prob. I was stuck down for 2 weeks over christmas/new year with a bad allergic reaction to some antibiotics so I have been offline for a bit. but you'll get a few extra people in now for sure.

only queers and steers hey? how tall are you private brisby? looks good. plenum sounds a bit camp though. more boost should help. you already have more power than you are qualified for anyway.... hehe.

nice mate. I like it. should be cams legit too being that to the best of my memory their main rule is that the exhaust "must exit reward of the last opening door" and yours will comply with that. the passenger seat will be nice and warm on those frosty tasmanian winter days..... lol. i remember doing passenger laps in a mates car with twin 2835 high mounts and about 500kw, it had all the pipes tucked up very, very close to the floor. it melted my shoes to the floor... bastard. burnt my feet nicely too. after 2 laps it was me tyring to sit there with me feet a few inches off the floor. the 3 bolt flanges are good too. as you know much better than generic shithouse 2 bolt jobs. they are built to leak. even better would be v-bands but I can see when you're on a budget they get expensive quick.

700cc sard injectors and nistune tuned properly will idle like factory. same goes with power FC. they run just as fine as any 550cc and 600cc injectors i've used and I have used all 3 types in various GTRs. the sard 700s are a no brainer really.

agree. motul chrono 300V 10W40 is what you want. expensive and awesome. have used it for years in nearly all my GTRs.

good man. it's good when someone takes advice! I was not saying it to increase my shares in nissan! and yeah the nissan studs and nuts are better than the generic ones you buy at various places.

yeah same with duncan. 'crazing' like that on the disks is normal. when they really start to crack you'll know about it!

looks good. the only thing I can really fault is no incar lap display so you have no idea if you are on a good lap or not. or if you are going quicker or slower. very important if you use soft tyres that only have a couple of laps of peak life in them. you don't want to throw away tyres trying to set a good lap if you've lost 3 tenths off your pb by turn 3... but for $200 it's a pretty cheap way to get some very useful data and makes it a great learning tool.

snowy, if there is enough interest in 34 screens I believe Derek will be able to get them made at some point. possibly not in this first order but maybe shoot him a pm and see what he can do. and in the meantime contact any 34 owners you know who might be interested and see if you can get together another 4 or 5 blokes after a 34 screen. I'm sure that would help.

bingo!

pigaaz, yeah the midori dumps are good and remarkably 'similar' to the old tomei dumps... the new tomei dumps are good too and definitely stronger being cast but they are sadly a little smaller. check which HKS front pipes you have. one way to tell is the newer BIG ones have the flanges welded to the pipes on the inside. so instead of seeing welds around the outside of the flange where it meats pipe there are just 2 small tack welds. from memory they are about 75mm or more each pipe into single 90mm. plenty of people have made good power (or claimed to) on stock 32 dumps but on any car of mine that I've changed them on it certainly seemed to go much better with bigger ones. the only car I've owned with HKS dumps is the one that's currently not quite making the power it should. so I dunno? Midori is one of the top 10 GTR workshops in the world for sure. they charge like wounded bulls but their gear is amazing. all their stuff works and is top shelf. I do not mind paying for quality.

many exhaust shops these days carry the flanges and clamps in many sizes. try ringing a few places close to you.

agree with that point. have seen too many cars have problems with them to consider having one and not check it's flowing what it should be at whatever voltage it's receiving.

hmm sounds like it could be a problem with the tyre. which compound are they? is the front diff 1 way? 1.5way? surely not 2 way? is the front diff out the old car too? so it's just the rear that's new? it's possible that with the new different alignment (lack of camber and castor) that the tyres were not getting used evenly and that they were damaged and from thereafter where just gone?

well, I think sanchez looks quite dashing in his new look. sort of half zoro half porn actor. "Just like zoro he enters through the back door and comes in a flash".

just one question. will any part of this event include full circuit laps? if so how much is entry? ok that's 2 questions.

PS forgot to add. The car looks great mate. just fantastic.

replace the catch tank with the bigger cusco one that sits in front of your battery. you still have a standard sized battery so it'll fit there no problem. also consider installing some improved cam cover baffles it will help stop so much oil making it to the can. the mines ones are excellent. plenty of copies available now but I like to do the right thing and buy the originals, they are not silly money. here's a pic of the catch tank I mean in one of my cars. it's the 'racing version' and from memory is 3 litre size and fits very nicely. sorry it's not the best pic as you can't see the whole can. it also runs much bigger tubing than the small one you have.

yeah I do wish they'd spend some money on 'rape cameras' or 'assault cameras' in strategically placed spots in parks, back streets etc that are known hot spots for various assaults and attacks. it would be nice to see a bloke in court accused of being caught on rape cam claiming "no officer, it's not me, there's two people in that photo and she was raping me!". I somehow think it might not work as well as it does for motorists and in any case maybe the bright flash would scare a few off and save some people. (BTW this rant is 50% joke and not to be taken seriously).

about $82,000 for the first one. around $78,000 for the second one. I have to be honest though, for $80K on road I'd be looking at a Vspec II NUR in exceptional condition. with a 5 mil yen budget that is certainly obtainable. Those two cars look nice but they are priced into the stratosphere.

I honestly want to know how you managed to even get the money to buy a car for your poor dying son? I guess banks will lend anyone money these days. to be honest though I'm struggling to sort the truth from the nonsense in your posts. if you really did get scammed then get serious. give us the details, how much? who to? when? etc and maybe someone can help you.

yep have seen it in japan.