Beer Baron

f**king hell! it's a long way down when you loose it at the top of a run. poor bloke. cage can't have been too bad though since he did live to tell about it. you don't really get an idea of just how steep it is till the end of the vid when you can see the flat ground at the bottom where people are standing waiting to come up and help. it looked like it just hooked a bit of a sharp turn at the end of his run. probably the most dangerous part of the whole thing is turning around at the top...

$1350 from hi octane. http://www.hioctanedirect.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67_74&products_id=613

I have tested a set of sard 700s once and they were all within a bees dick of each other. never bothered again with new denso type ones (sard/nismo etc). have tested plenty of standard injectors though and found a few % variance is the norm.

sounds like you are on the right track. definitely still get it checked out. if the turbo guy has even half a clue he will be able to tell straight away if there is any abnormal noises there.

yes the 700s are drop in for a GTR and are a great injector.

my advice would be to go to court. I please guilty the day before I was to go to court over non-payment of a $4.20 toll notice. I filled out the guilty plea and wrote what I thought was a fairly eloquent letter explaining why the toll notice was unpaid and how it occurred (some details in one of my earlier posts). I thought it was all pretty clear that I was being hard done by and that in no way did the penalty reflect the 'crime' (using that word loosely). Anyway he stung me the full fine amount, plus court costs of $76. and even worse I got no explanation as to why he made that decision. Just a letter in the mail stating I plead guilty and the magistrate imposed that penalty. I really think you have a much better chance of a reduced penalty if you front up to court, plead guilty, explain any mitigating circumstances you have, admit that you did the wrong thing, but that a suspension would be a great hardship for you etc. Talk a little bit about your character, any work you do in the community etc might help and a character reference or two doesn't hurt especially if they come from someone like a lawyer or doctor etc. anyone of some standing in the community. That is just my advice though, and based off my own very limited experience in these things. So if you have paid good money for legal advice and they tell you to just plead guilty by fax then do it, but at least attach a few pages explaining your circumstances etc. GOOD LUCK.

yeah opinion is divided on the HKS dumps (haha great pun). personally I hate them and I have a set on my new GTR. funnily enough it's also not making the power it should at the moment either and apart from the dumps the rest of the exhaust is how I want it (3.5inch decat, 90mm titanium cat back with just a single muffler which is 90mm through, and decent front pipes). But other people, experienced people, tell me the HKS dumps work fine and even though they are small they work. it's a lot of money to waste based on my 'theory' though. I will say in the cars of my own that I fitted tomei dumps to they run very nicely, particularly noticeably as they transition onto boost very hard and certainly had no restriction. Mik and his dad are pretty switched on so if you've got Mik's old car I'd wager there is not much wrong with it. if he made 370kw through those dumps then they may well not need replacing. having said that what worked at 370 may be becoming a bit of a restriction at 400+. Anyway, give it some thought and talk to a few people before you spend the dough. but yeah if it were my car I'd be trying a set of 2530s and some tomei or similar dumps, and see if it won't make 400kw on E85 with 25psi. Also remember there are not as many 'genuine' 400kw cars out there as it seems. it actually takes a fair bit to get a genuine 400kw+ at the wheels on a GTR (or any car). as for the dude above, if you car really is making 380kw then why change anything? racepace no what they are doing, so if they are your builder/tuner then I would listen to them. they have built enough quick cars to earn that respect.

mmm I'm interested. if you can find out who sells them I might grab one for my new car. want to switch it to E85. currently running a nismo pump, already has 1000cc injecotrs, after a nice 380kw or so with the 2530s it has but don't think the nismo pump will do it.

I do me best. still I think lack of fuel stops and super hard tyres is a recipe for snores. strategy makes the sport exciting. in it's current form all the 'strategy' is done at the end of quali. after that it's just circulate for 60 laps and try not to run out of fuel or hit anything.

lol. what a shock that never came off....

yeah agreed it would be awesome. even in something like the spec C, but as all us paupers realise there is a lot we can do with 1/3 of $60K. for less than $10K I could do an do 2 days driving at Spa and 2 days driving at the ring with brisby and then spend a week somewhere in europe getting pissed and eating good food while talking up each others driving. ok, maybe $15K. but that still leaves me $5K for some fun back home too. and spa is so good everytime I think about it I feel super depressed that I'm not back there right now... I'd also like to do san luis, zandvoort, silverstone and all those can be done. Bathurst? one day!

it's not so much the less track. it's that comparatively (front to rear compared to a non V) it has more front track than rear which makes the car much easier to control. think of it like swaybars. stiffening the rear gives more front grip. but how it does that is by reducing rear grip. the track thing is similar. it takes away some stability from the rear and thus makes the car. so it's desirable to add front track if possible. if not reducing rear track a little may have a similar effect. The diff could be a factor. you running a front LSD snowman? and if so where you running it before? wbat else can you think of that's changed from the old car to the new one?

I have found the same parts on different cars don't always give the same alignment results. It's just one of those things of not all chassis being the same. but it does signal maybe something is not 100% right with the subframe possibly. As far as I know the differences between R34 V and non V are in the ATTESA ECU only. wheel speed sensors/abs sensors are the same, all other inputs I believe are the same too. but there is definitely a difference between the ECU's in the 34's between V and non V. it sounds like the new tyres are definitely covering up for a set-up problem somewhere. I can see the tighter ratios of the 6 speed would make it feel fast SOP too. what diff ratios are you running? 4.1? same as with the old box? as far as any other differences between 34V and 34nonV driveline goes as far as I know the only big difference is in the ECU. pumps and transfers are the same, obviously one has the ALSD (which is rubbish anyway) but apart from that with your old V ecu in the new car that should have fixed a lot of it. in the end the only way of solving it may be to swap all the subframes, transfer etc from your old car into the new one and see what the problem is. bit of a tough way to find pace though.

could it be the box? how are you finding the new ratios? maybe the old box was better suited to whatever circuits you are testing at? what diff ratios are you running now and what where you running before? the R34 Vspec AWD system IS different to the R34 non-vspec. so there would definitely be some difference there. as you already know the a-lsd is rubbish though so you've done the right thing there by not running it. but if the new car is non-vspec why does it have a ALSD light on the dash? or are you running the old dash in the new car? I feel your pain snowman. sometimes they will just not farking do what they are supposed to despite all the ingredients being there. it's enough to make you want to light it on fire!

most likely they are rebuilt, high flowed injectors. your call but I would personally just buy new ones. injectors are not super expensive these days an are fairly important....

realistically you can expect 350awkw at 20-22psi. that is what the MAJORITY of -5s/2530 set-ups make. some make more, some make less but basically that's what you'll get. very unlikely it was making 460kw even with 28psi....

nice looking exhaust mate. who made it up for you?

well I'm with duncan. yes ball bearing turbos will 'spin down' when you shut the engine off and you can hear them do it if your head is near the engine bay but I'm surprised you can hear it in car with the engine on even with windows down. I'd be a bit concerned too but don't know if I'd go so far to spend $1500 to get it checked. I would take it to the mechanic or turbo specialist and get them to listen to the noise. they should know by listening whether it's normal spin down noise or whether it's wheel touching housing noise, or bearing noise etc. either way get it to a mechanic.

well if it's in good nick it will run whatever the turbos will flow at 25psi. having said that on stock pistons 25psi is a fair bit of boost. I'd be looking more like 20psi-22psi with your stock engine with metal head gasket. like the guys said though it's a bit of a lottery. it may last forever if you keep good oil in it and run a good oil cooler etc and keep temps under control, or it may spin a bearing first track day out. only one way to find out.....

yep it's worth doing. and as mentioned above no they are not all the same. just to add one important point. BUY GENUINE NISSAN STUDS. I know of so many stories of woe from people using cheap studs from their local nuts and bolts place. the genuine nissan ones are definitely better. yeah they cost a bit but it's worth doing. definitely replace them. and yes you can just use two nuts on each stud locked against either other to get them out, or there are special stud removal/replacement tools too.

i would use your R32 ignition setup (coils, ignitor and harness). use your 32 ecu and harness. Keep the R34 cas (as 32 cas won't match the 34 drive on the cam snout) but you need to swap 2 wires around to get it working with the 32 ecu. simple as that. other than that there are a few little differences. top radiator pipe on the engine is different. bolt your 32 one onto the 34 engine. that's about it off the top of my head. much easier this way. oh, put your R32 sump onto the 34 engine too. otherwise you will have one major problem. the 34 front gearing is massively different to the R32, so if you use the 34 diff and sump you'll end up with different ratios front and rear. with both engines out of the car it's easier to just swap sumps rather that set up the old 32 diff into the 34 housing. and there is no advantage in using the 34 sump over your 32 one. same goes for the diff centre, they are both open diffs, just with different crown wheel to pinion ratios.

piggaz, I have had some success on 2 cars of mine with the tomei manis and found they seemed to make a difference even with GTSS turbos as they spooled up very hard with the tomei mani's. the aim is to get that exhaust gas hitting the turbine wheel hard by giving it the most direct path possible, but given how much pressure there is between head and turbine in the manifolds design is probably not so crucial but the tomeis do have much bigger runners. having said that the stock manifolds should not really hold it back at all. they have their good points too. being thick cast mani's they keep much more heat (energy) in the pipe which is desirable too. there is no doubt they are good enough. on my two cars that I used tomei mani's on they held up fine while I had them and I know one car that has been running now about 3 years with them still good. BUT on the flip side I have heard of a few tails of cracked ones too. there are a few factors in that. a lot of people done have a bracket to hold up the front pipes which means all the weight of the turbos, dumps and front pipes are hanging on the mani's. EGTs is another big factor as is engines that get shut down hot without a "warm down" period to let temps normalise slowly. that can and will crack the manifolds. Have you considered switching to a set of GTS4 diff gears? they are a great match with the OS gearset you have and will shift your power graph in the right direction speed wise. The key thing I've found to get the best out of the twins (be it GTSS, 2530, or GTRS) is getting the gas in and out of turbos as well as you can. I would reccomend a set of stock ported or tomei mani's, a set of tomei big bell mouth dumps (or other comparable ones but I've never seen others as big as the tomeis), matched to the BIG HKS front pipes (there are small ones and big ones, you need the big twin 70mm into single 90mm ones), with a free flowing cat or pipe and a free flowing exhaust. same goes for the intake. you want a nice smooth passage for that compressed air from the turbos to the inlet. you can keep the stock inlet piping and twin turbo pipe but replace the other intercooler pipes for a hard pipe kit (not expensive). nismo plenums are good too but I've never seen much top end power increase from them, but they definitely help with response which is not easily measured on a dyno(on/off/on throttle and a bit of midrange gain too). you can also got a full suction kit if you like, I'm a fan of them but they are a bit expensive from HKS or trust so on a dollar to improvement basis they are not a necessity. A good intercooler is important too. These days I don't see a reason to use anything much other than ARC. they are amazing. Their 70mm cores are easily good enough for a 350+kw circuit car and are lighter than a standard core, and allow plenty of air through to the radiator too (something not many people conider when they jam a massive 180mm thick core in there). the 100mm ARC cores are good too if you need something with a bit more volume. Obviously tune is key too but again it's a bit hard to quntify. you just have to hope that the tuner you choose is doing the right stuff. from memory you have a fairly reputable one. to sumarise, my suggestions to get twins working hard on a GTR: mani's are not crucial but ported stock is good and I've had good results with tomei too BIG dumps are important, I do not like the small split dumps, even the genuine HKS ones BIG front pipes are important too. I don't like the everyday china twin 60mm ones, try for something bigger the rest of the exhaust is important too. you want that gas to have a nice free path out. inlet piping is less important but still some thought should be given to it. intercooler is important. get a good one. the tune, and tune some more. but if the turbos are just not suitable for the package then it will never be right. a set of -5s or 2530s would probably wake your car up. Look at the change in Gav's car. don't stress though, you'll get there.

yikes! I bet that think can climb some rocks, or dunes or whatever they do with it! turbine oulet pipe makes a nice tyre warmer too.

yeah the AGY car is pretty fantacular. I have loved it for years and it keeps getting better. they built the gearbox in my R32 and it's amazing. they do some cool shit there. agreed that a 4 inch pipe squashed is probably the easiest solution but it's still likely to get nailed every now and then. adding some kind of slip joint or spring joint (they look kind of like wiggans clamps but for exhaust) might help a bit, even just a regular flex joint will help.

yeah it can seem a little expensive since you are not driving it on the road but they still have a big $60K theft liability there and there is just as big a risk as there always was of someone stealing it from your garage or trailer, or at the track. in my experience shannons have been pretty good with these types of insurance. Multi car discount helps a bit, do you have another car you might want to insure with them? but honestly for $850 a year it's probably worth it. you're now saving $1000 a year in rego and greenslip costs so you're still in front.