Beer Baron

yeah MG club has been trying to do this for about 9 years by my count (and that's only as long as I've heard about it). I fking hate the way NSW is going now. no more warrick farm, catalina, amaroo, oran park (and others). all we have left is 1 fking track eastern creek and now they want to chop it's balls off and make it all lame just so they can rent it to multiple people at the same time and get more cash. I mean it was bad enough having just 1 track but at least it as a good one and fairly flowing. once it's knobled we have nothing left....

pretty slim of anything other than an HRT or Lotus... maybe a virgin...

Thread closed. if you want to buy turbos we have a classifieds section for that which also includes a 'wanted to buy' section where you can make posts just like this.

yeah all the way you can try and save a few bucks are a bit of a false economy. I think my last set of nismo afms was around $750 brand new (in fact I still have a spare set I should flog). for that money they are well worth it. they fit whatever piping/filters/airbox you have now and they are brand spanking new.

good idea but a little complex. having a 240V or even a 110V element or wrap type heater is much easier and certainly proven to work. same as R33 racer the ones i've used had a screw in element in the tank (and used the wrap/blanket type too) and were powered off a step down transformer. the advantage is very little gear in the car (so not much added weight), just the element and it's plug. all the rest of the stuff can live in your garage or be taken with you to any race meets etc. in your climate I imagine you'd only ever need to use it in the morning and the car would be good for the rest of the day even with on/off driving. the advantage to your system I guess is it's powered by EGT so it's free.

there you go, $80 will get you the cable with USB plug delivered to you. even cheaper on ebay etc. http://ecutalk.com/interface.aspx edit, the chinese ones are like $30. but need serial to USD adapter if no serial RS232 port on your laptop.

forget the multimeter. you are best off just hooking up a consult/ecu-talk device. that will give you the 02 sensor voltage. will also allow you to check operation of other sensors and solenoids too. even just the consult cable will be fine (just plug it into a laptop and your consult port near the in-cabin fuses). otherwise if you have a power FC the handcontroller will let you do the same stuff (sensor check etc).

no he doesn't want it like pic 3 (that shows both offset bushes on the traction arm). there are 4 arms that control the rear wheel alignment. lower control arm (big triangle on the bottom, swaybar connects to it) upper control arm (you are calling it camber arm) traction rod (can be called radius rod) tie rod/toe rod (this comes from the HICAS rack/lock bar and adjusts toe). if you look at those pics you posted you'll see they have installed offset bushes into the outer mounts (on the hub) and the inner (in the arms) for both upper control arm and traction rod. the positions of the arms in the pics throws you off a bit as they are no where near their mounts. what you've done is fine, but perhaps he wanted more adjustment for the upper control arm? maybe he wants you to just buy 1 more kit to fit the two outer mounts for the upper control arm? you are right, ideally you should be adjusting the traction rod whenever you are adjusting the upper control arm.

honestly you should be thankful you couldn't get the 1.8mm. it's just not needed and isn't going to make your engine seal any better. as R33 said all it does is increase chamber volume which reduces your compression ratio which means less power/response off boost. you would only need a 1.8mm if you wanted to perhaps run like 40spi or if you had custom pistons that needed that extra bit of clearance. a 1.2mm would have been fine but since you have the 1.5mm now by all means just use that.

I've never been happy with any of the gates stuff I've seen. for me standard nissan, or nismo if you want aftermarket.

fck it can't be hard. my old R35 GTR had 'launch control' that was perfectly acceptable and event a retard could use it. select the right swithces, mash throttle to floor, hold foot on brake (doesn't need to be hard) car automatically brings revs up to the desired point (about 5,000 in this case, more like 15,000 I'd guess in an F1 car) and also engages the clutch to the right part. when it's time to leave you simply release the brake pedal (it's only acting as a switch so any button would do) and the car automatically releases the brakes (which have been locked on) and releases the clutch at the right speed and lets the revs go. no reason it needs to be any harder in an F1 car. I know it'd need some fine tuning for different tracks and different tyres but it wouldn't be much of a change just move the revs up or down a bit. perhaps the rules in F1 prevent a bit of this stuff as I know teams did set up their 'launch control' so that it actually doubled as a low speed corner traction control system too. but yeah it's shithose how bad webbers starts are. as much as I love the guy and think he's an awesome driver I do seem to remember some poor starts in other F1 cars too (though they were all pretty shit cars so it may be coincidental).

dunno but it's for sale now on my105 for $120K...

dhr81 what you are saying is right, but now people interpret that as 2 seperate 'latching' mechanisms not fastenings. as in 2 points of attachment at the front only. technically since all modern cars have a 2 stage bonnet catch they should comply anyway, but people have knocked them back. especially in VIC and NSW. so buying a $20 pre made piece of steel cable with snap end on one end and a shackle on the other and secure the bonnet to the radiator support with it is a good idea. it will save you any possible grief. as far as the cage goes you'll be fine. as long as the event doesn't require a cage (basically only door to door stuff requires a cage). i've never seen anyone with a jap cage knocked back at an event that does not mandate cages. that includes my own cars, i've had 3 different jap cages in 2 difference GTRs for the last 9 years and never been turned away.

block is not different. yes you can fit a RWD sump. you can buy a RWD RB20 box and then RWD RB20 tailshaft and that should all fit fine. otherwise you can leave the transfer case there but cut the side off it and just keep your standard tailshaft (but it means sacrificing your transfer case and a bit of extra weight). if you go this way, sell me your front GTS4 diff/pinion. I need a spare. you cannot just remove the transfer case as the output from the gearbox is made to go into the transfer not to bolt onto a shaft. so that's why you need to keep the transfer but with the front drive bit cut off and the guts out of it. or just get a RWD box (it has the right output shaft).

yeah I remember you had a route 6 dave. it was a bargain that one wasn't it... lol.

awesome! the dump keeps getting better. apart from the collector of course it's my favourite piece. it's very, very clever.

if it's still in the spec it was at for WTAC 2010 then it's a bloody good buy for $45K. there's some great cars around at the moment for sale for cheap.

they are not needed but I have found on track days the stock GTR stuff gets pretty soft (with heat). but plenty of people run 300kw with the stock pipes. but personally I much prefer hard pipes. I like the trust kit best. I use the trust suction kit and the trust intercooler pipe kit (need both). that replaces all the standard piping in the engine bay. they look nice. but for sure if you are on a budget it's money that is better spent elsewhere.

Rak, I like you mate. your a good bloke. there is no way a high comp NA 25GT is even going to be as fast as a basic GTT with a cat back exhaust. seriously, sell the 25GT and buy here a R34 GTT auto. you can put a GTR kit on it, upgrade turbo etc (no need for twin turbo, a larger single turbo is fine and can make plenty of power) and she will have a plenty fast car that is still auto but will look and go like a GTR. plus the turbo models have better brakes which is important too. now, we need some pics of your GF driving.

age? if they are old they will be very hard to get heat into them with a light car with not much power.

lol, we all know that feeling. generous offer too.

yeah and just like real life beer baron is king of the mid-pack. woohoo!

all I can say is how fkign good was webber on alonso? pass of the year! loved it. he just went, 'fk this, going round the outside at aeu rouge, just close my eyes, hold my breath and hope alonso doesn't want to die right now'. it was epic. oh and schumi showed an old style drive where he used to be able to go from back of the grid to win races. he didn't win but 24th to 5th was pretty awesome given his car is not amongst the best 6 cars on the grid (2 X RBR, 2 X Mac, 2 X Fez). pretty good drive to celebrate his 20 years in F1 with a drive that really proved he's not as far over the hill as people might think.

yeah sard RJ are about $300 and are a good reg. even the small sard ones are fine for probably 90% of applications, you just have to buy a genuine one which is nigh on impossible on ebay. from memory retail japanese price is about $180 for a sard reg, and about $60 for the gauge and maybe $20 for the nissan adapter. I see them on ebay with all that for $60... now you tell me if you think it's real... on top of that i'm fairly sure the genuine sard fuel pres gauges aren't liquid filled, all the ebay ones look like they are to me.

nah, the sard/denso 700s are single hole for sure. nothing wrong with that though, they have perfectly fine atomisation and spray patterns.