Beer Baron

it would have to be a long distance commuter car. in 12 months that's over 3,500 kms a week, which is over 500kms a day 7 days a week! or over 700kms a day 5 days a week. that would be impossible to do in just short 5km-10km trips unless the bloke was a courier... lol.

Paul, what ignition are you running with te motec? standard coil set-up? I've got a motec in my new 32 and been thinking a bit about ignition lately.

no need to apologise. I wasn't directly replying to you. I just meant 'only' 270kw in that these days it's not considered much power, but it's actually a decent amount of power for an otherwise fairly standard engine set-up. not long ago most people would kill for a genuine 270kw atw in just about any type of road car. and yes wiith stock cams the sweet zone (best compromise between midrange power and peak power) seems to be around 4-6 degrees inlet advanced and 2-4 degrees exhaust retarded. where the exact sweet spot is for any car is a guess and why it's worth testing a few points. ie, inlet 3, exhaust 2, inlet 4 exhaust 2, etc etc you get the picture. as far as tuning your type B poncams it seems to be a bit more hit an miss. many people say they are best left at 0 and 0 but some people have been happier with them after some time adjusting on a dyno. I do think it's worth spending a bit of $$ to get a few different positions tested on the dyno to see if you like the way it changes the power delivery. anyway in this case I still think by far the best option this bloke has is just get the cam gears adjusted. it will give maximum result for minimum cash. If he really wants cams though just buy some. no one here will loose any sleep over it, but it does defeat the purpose of asking for advice is your mind is already made up...

there's a little expandable piece inside. hard to explain but if you've ever held one in your hands and played with it a bit you'll get the idea. it's not a huge amount but they do allow both flex and twist without leaking.

the wiggins clamps actually do have an amount of flex in them. I think it should be ok. great build mate. should be a very, very, very fast car. Love that it's still a 2.7 and not a 30. I think for what you want a 2.6 or 2.7 is the way to go as you will want revs and lots of them. what kind of gearbox are you going to run in it?

I'm fairly sure they include shipping cost in duty calculations. they certainly do for cars. it's FOB cost + ocean freight cost. I wouldn't wager any money on it but if I had to guess I'd say it's the same rule for packages. cost of items + cost of freight = dutiable amount.

try it. the cold surface of the concrete will help speed up your batteries discharge. it's not a matter of science it's a matter of practical experience. but if you know better, go put your battery on the concrete floor of your garage for a week or two and tell me how that works out for you.

BTW, I am a big fan of cams for the right application. and in a GTR that really means either a circuit car who needs to beef up the 5,000rpm-8,000rpm range or a car with over 350kw that needs the thing to breathe deeply. on my own cars I've had cams. I had cams in my old GTR but it had lots of headwork, valve springs etc and was designed to run a higher than standard rev limit. at those rpms the cams are worthwhile.

you want good response. this is my old GTR post cam gear tuning. compare it to similar powered cars and see what power they are making at 100kmh, 120kmh etc. you can see a massive area under the curve. it doesn't make massive power but it was a pretty quick car. very quick for a car with "only" 270kw... This car was standard RB26, standard head, standard cams, standard injectors, standard intercooler, standard turbos (possibly were N1s, not sure), power FC, 15psi, and a cat back exhaust (very free flowing). as I said it does not make mega power but compare to other GTR graphs and see how well it does down low and how quick it ramps onto boost and the size of the area under the curve. before we even get half way along the scale it's making over 200kw. so it's making over 200kw atw from about 3,800rpm to redline.

I still think the low mph is telling us it's down on power. 316kw should give a fair whack more than 112mph. btw most GTRs with fuel and driver will be much heavier than 1475kg. regardless of 32/33/34 none of them will be under 1500kg with fuel and average driver unless they have had some weight reduction done.

you will never get the same tyre temp in the wet with the same type of tyre used in the dry. that is why you bring the starting pressures up. it's all about getting the pressures right, don't worry about the peak tyre temp too much. chasing a number won't work. as far as temp across the face of the tyre you want it to be pretty much even across the whole width of the tyre. if it's not that is telling you that you are not using the whole tyre properly and need to adjust your camber settings and general suspension set-up. measuring the temps across the face will tell you lots of things, like is the tyre over infalted? under inflated? too much camber? not enough camber etc.

come on webber old son. go you good thing!!! do it for your country!!!

the reason many people go white is purely for aesthetics. it looks nice. when you go black you loose all the detail in the interior in a sea of black and it does get hard to find dropped nuts etc. black also gets hot. grey is a good option. always a good idea to paint the cage the same as the interior as it hides it a bit unless you don't care in which case paint any colour you want.

yeah something like that jaycar maintenance charger would be perfect. otherwise just disconnect the battery. if you take it out of the car do not put it on a concrete surface it will discharge quickly and be ruined. if you must put it on the floor at least put a plank of wood or something between it and the concrete. it won't hurt your car not having a battery for 3 months.

that is fked. a friend of mine was recently let down badly by a major car transport company. they delivered his car with an abnormally high amount of kms on it's clock and clear signs that the car had been treated badly. the 'gentleman' who received the car at their depo even went so far as to tell me his driving impressions of ferrari's new GTRs etc. it boggles the mind the lack of respect they have for other people property. glad your insurer did the right thing. your premium will almost certainly be affected though. even a not at fault claim will change things next year come renewal time.

I think the MPH is below what it should be with a genuine 316kw. I've run over 112mph with only 250kw and ran low 12s about 5 years ago with stock engine and stock turbos @1bar. 60ft is not bad, but the fact that you're only running 112/114 mph means you are down on power. to get into the 11s your going to need a fantastic run or more power. either that or the power deliver is really bad. but with 316kw you should have higher TS than 112mph...

yeah definitely look at cams with headwork and bigger turbos. but with small bolt ons and standard engine and head there is not a lot to be had. it will fatten up the area around 5,000rpm and give some top end gain but will be at the expense of low down response.

call me quick draw....

yeah but cams cost $800-$1000 for a pair, plus maybe $300 fitting, plus you will need a re-tune of the ecu AND adjust the cam gears to get the most out of them. so you're looking at nearly $2000 to do it properly. for 2 hours of dyno time to set-up the cam gears you will get an excellent result for $400 and you wont loose any response (you will gain some) and your idle wont be much affected at all (slight change). for what you want you'd be mad to go to all the expense of buying cams. especially since you already have cam gears and just need to spend 1-2hours to have them set-up.

seriously if you want good response and good idle stock cams are the way to go. any cam is going to give you a slightly lumpier idle and going to move your peak torque UP the RPM scale. for GTSS probably the best option for what you want is cam gears. you say you have them but have they been tuned? I gained 30kw midrange in my old GTR with cam gear tuning and about 5kw peak power. so peak power change was quite small but the difference in the midrange and the transition onto boost was amazing. so yeah, the best bet for you is cam gear tuning. or maybe a set of 34 N1 cams, they are a very mild upgrade.

they both affect brake clearance. offset in different wheels is achieved diffeent ways. some change the position of the rim relative to the spoke (thus the spokes position to the caliper does not change) but some change the thickness of the hub which moves the spokes and the wheel rim and this does affect caliper clearance so it all depends on the individual wheel. both spoke desgin and offset and furthermore HOW the offset is achieved does affect caliper clearance.

BTW, koyo radiator is gone. sard injectors are gone. sard fuel rail is gone. EVERYTHING ELSE I STILL HAVE. my new car will be here in 2 weeks time. I'm pretty keen to shift the engine now and all the other gear too. I still have all the gear to make this a drop in prospect and can easily supply a set of injectors, rail and radiator to make it all complete again. All the key stuff is there, engine, turbos, tomei manifolds, inlet piping, ARC intercooler, Trust suction kit, plenum, 6 throttle set-up, front diff, all the external gaskets etc the whole shebang-a-bang. If your in sydney I can even organise it to be installed for you at a number of local shops I deal with for a good price. There is 20 years of RB26 knowledge in this engine and lots of little tricks that aren't mentioned.

I have personally used a cusco/safety 21 cage in my 32 GTR at supersprint events for years. both in half cage form and full cage. it's quite a good cage with main hoop, 2 bars to rear towers/wheel arches, a horizontal bar between them and the normal rear diagonal bar, plus the two front legs and horizontal bar at top of windscreen. it does not meet cams standards in material spec and the front legs have 2 bends instead of 1 but apart from that I am comfortable using it and in conjunction with a proper seat and harness I feel much safer with it than without it. no chance I would be able to use it for any door to door stuff but for supersprints, practice days and track days it's fine. just because it's made in japan and not made exactly the way a bunch of old blokes at cams want it made does not make it rubbish. still a good cage.

yeah the 4.375:1 is gts4.

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