Beer Baron

well within your budget I would be doing: enlarge oil returns in block and head fit oil feed restrictor (based on flow of pump but between 1.1mm and 1.5mm depending on flow of pump, max rpm and type of use) fit trust sump extension (best sump that still fits your budget, the others are good too but as you can see $1600 just for the sump extension) trust sump is a good design and holds plenty oil do the rear head oil drain if you want. opinions are mixed on it's value but having one shouldn't hurt anything but they can make refitting the engine a bit of a pain depending on the exact design you may need to 'massage' the firewall to make it fit without touching. that's the key bits.

yeah I agree, stick with the 20 for now. but don't flog the RB24 gear. it's too rare to sell and then realise you want it 12 months from now...

yeah the paint is good. not sure I'd say it's more useful. they are both good for different purposes. i'd use paint on rotors for example but for a radiator the stickers work great. they work fine on calipers too. I have noticed the paint does go off after some time.

don't sell yourself short brisby. troy and I did some wet sessions at the green hell aka nurburgring nordschleife a few weeks back. with 2 cars (alfa 75 3 litre, caged with semis and a VW scirocco turbo DSG with cage and good road tyres) we had a good play in the wet. it was white knuckle stuff to be sure. in underpowered alfa we were getting swamped in the dry but in the wet I think there were session where barely a single car passed us and we passed plenty... it needed a smooth touch but you had to drive it positively. it responded well when you got some heat in the tyres and drove it through corners on the throttle. that car did have some 'interesting' handling quirks though... anyway bris was pretty handy in the wet. I think just doing the laps we did without ending up in the fence was an achievement in its self. consider that at 24km a single nordschleife lap is the same as a 10 lap session at wakefield and you can understand why you feel knackered at the end of a white knuckle wet lap...

yeah I think $900 to do a front and rear diff change is probably about right. good going. like brad said there is no need to take the sump off to get the diff out, it was more that in the past most diff places didn't want the car, just the diff and it's housing (in this case sump) so you had to. but if award offer drive in drive out for $900 I'd be doing that.

my goodness! that sierra is sexual chocolate!!! love it. your 34 not bad either snowplow.

don't worry duncan. I got it. gold jerry! gold!!!

front lsd not necessary on a street car. but a good idea for a track car. especially if you are changing ratios, may as well do it together. have a look at any serious track GTR... front lsd. it's not like you'll fail without one, but on the track a front LSD transforms the car. just like a rear LSD does for a GTST etc. needs a fair adjustment in driving style though.

haha, that's more like it!!

yeah generally the diagonal in the main hoop goes from top drivers side to bottom passenger side. like you say it stops the hoop crushing in side impact and also protects your noggin in roll over. not sure why it runs the other way but it may be ok, or like you say to be sure you can make an X and be covered no matter what. the downside is the X severely limits access to the back of the cabin. talk to bond about why the cage is like that. I'm sure they have a good reason.

CRD - Croydon Racing Developments in Sydney have done a fair bit of R35 work Haltech have also. Lots of R35s in Australia getting bits and pieces.

yeah makes sense. I guess once driveshaft is out and diff cover off you can get enough room to get it out. in that case... rock on.

cool. in that case it probably is worth getting them from think auto. I think they are about 1-2 pound each and postage maybe 5-10pound.

yeah I have heard one of two people say they can do it with engine in car but it would be a massive c u next tuesday of a job. getting all the sump bolts out with engine and box still in the car is going to be tough. would still be a fair few hours labour to remove + replace sump even if they can do it with engine in car, and at $800-$100 an hour the labour bills add up quick! still it's a good mod. worth doing.

hey John, i've bought them from thinkauto (www.thinkauto.com) in the past, but since those guys are in the UK it's a bit pricey to just oder stickers (thought I have done it once!), I used to get them with other bits. But I have seen in NSW the guys that do trackside sales (race and rally - speedzone and perhaps revolution etc) do sell them too. Could also try earls in silverwater they probably have them. it's nice being in C and with different ranges of temp for different things.

yeah going rate these days about $1000 for a set. still good value if you ask me. the biggest head f**k is you have to remove the engine to replace front diff so if you're not doing it yourself the labour bill for a simple ratio change quickly becomes a grand or two making it not exactly cheap. so if you're bothering to put the 4.4 GTS4 gears in your GTR may as well grab a front LSD while you're at it and do the rear nismo LSD clutch pack upgrade too. so: $1000 for front and rear GTS4 ratios $1000-$1600 for front LSD (depending on new or used and what brand) $300-$350 for set of nismo clutch packs for rear LSD engine removal and replacement (dunno maybe $1000-$1500) remove sump and get new lsd and gears fitted and set (maybe $200) remove rear LSD, fit clutch pack upgrade and CW and pinion (again maybe $200) makes it an expensive upgrade all round but very nice once it's all done. it will handle like a different car and drive out of corners much improved.

I would not be winding in more neg camber for a wet set-up. you want to take out a bit of camber to get more of the tyre on the road. the car will not be moving around on it's tyres and suspension nearly as much as it does in the dry so you don't need as much neg. and I agree with pressures. hot pressures will be down so you need a higher starting (cold) pressure.

wolverine hit the nail on it's circular, flat, top part. nice big bell mouth is the way to go. less problems with wastegate flap fouling, nice big area for gas to expand quickly give best result.

before you go changing oil pump and bearings and crank collar etc spend $200 on a quality oil pressure gauge and sensor. mount it, check it and see what is really happening with your cars oil pressure. the factory guages can be great, or they can be shithouse. but even when in tip top condition they are painfully slow to react (this is so normal drivers don't get scared by the rapid changes in oil pressure). buy a proper gauge and then decide if you really have a problem or not.

yeah the GTSS will give you a comfortable 550hp at the engine. even a bit more if you want to push them hard. for 600hp+ you want 2530s.. after that.... well there is no shortage of proven twin turbo options for GTRs.

yeah, try and get a machine shop to knock up a design on CAD for you, then buy the alloy or steel and get it machined up, then get the holes drilled and then tapped or heli-coiled, then buy the right bolts and then hope this thing fits and it has to be 100% spot on or you are in for all sorts of fun brake problems. think about all that and then realise that $300-$400 for a pair of proven adapters is an absolute bargain. as far as rotors go. yes you want vented (anything you look at for the front of a skyline will be vented). and ideally you want slotted. avoid cross drilled if you can. then it gets down to straight vane or curved vane. at the money we are talking most likely only option will be straight vane which is fine. 2 piece vs 1 piece. like the guys above said, lighter, better heat dissipation, plus they look cool. downside is they cost a shitload. for most applications 1 piece is fine. yep for standard nissan stuff call a nissan parts dealer and quote your chassis number. well in this case quote the chassis number of a BCNR33 GTR since you want 33 GTR brembo rotors.

what's included in this 'sound system'?

edit: d'oh. posted while I was posting. but yeah screwdriver in the ring gear is the usual method.

most people find a way to stop the crank turning at the other end. jam a bar or screwdriver in the flywheel somewhere to stop it spinning. in your car maybe something jammed against the ring geear will stop it? your idea is sound but like the guys say the bolts may bend or break off.

yeah they are good. have been available for years. I use different ones for different things. mocal make a heap of different ranges. stick them on radiator, oil cooler, shock body, calipers of course. anything that you want to know the temp of. just need to buy the appropriate heat range sticker for the job. they come in degrees C too which is easy for metric minded folk like us too.