Beer Baron

I wouldn't bother of a few weeks. even a month or two. after 6 months it's probably a good idea. but yeah for 2 weeks don't bother. it will come up to pressure pretty quick.

yeah PT to fuji is certainly possible. train to gotenba station then bus from there to FISCO. there are direction in english on the fuji speedway website. from memory take the odakyu line from shinjuku. I usually drive but have done the train and bus once years ago. it is a fair hike by train etc but certainly do-able. http://www.fsw.tv/english/access/railway.html

yeah shame it can't be imported but for anyone in japan it would be a cool car for some fun around japanese roads and tracks. having driven a MR2 with TD06 set-up I can say it makes for a mighty fun package. and it's something different from the usual skyline/silvia/chaser etc. 3SGE is a sweet engine. nice long shaken too great for a gaijin who is not looking forward to his first shaken raping.... If I was spending decent time in japan right now I'd sure consider it for a J-side car.

lol, yeah it's practically identical to when I had it. want to sell it back to me for what you paid? lol. hey, the warren g was mine! lol. you have no idea how many people offered me money for that hard drive full of J-pop. best feature of the car I reckon. if you ever figure out how to get that music off it I need a copy. actually if you ever want to get rid of the old stezza let me know. I might use it for nostalgia... shame it didn't work here. from memory in japan it had TV, DVD, sat-nav, phone hook-up, voice commands, hard drive. would have cost a bomb in japan. man it's so close now. I don't know how you can sleep at night!!! nothing better than being able to say you achieved it all yourself too. I hope the rest of the car does it justice. it was a very neat car though.

troys advice is sound. I'd price up a set of nissan 324mm rotors. if too expensive and you want 2 piece then look at stoptech (great stuff from the US) or the project mu's if you can get them for reasonable money.

it can use any fittings you want. just tell them what size ports you want for the oil cooler. most would be using -10 or -12 fittings.

i like the profec BII. good value ebc with some nice features and when set-up properly does a decent enough job of controlling boost.

getting closer... very excited.

forgot to mention that it looks to me to be a laminova type core. they make special cores for turbo engine pipework and also make sealed oil/water heat exchangers/stabilisers. very interesting type of core and apparently quite efficient.

no it's in the remote filter mount. when cold oil travels from block to filter mount, through filter and then returns (through the closed stat) back to the block. when up to temp oil will flow from block to remote filter, through filter, into oil stat (now open) and on to oil cooler, it then flows back to oil stat and then back to block. no ports in the oil stat are blocked off or used for gauges. you need all 4 ports. link to mocal ones. you want the OT2. OT1 is for toy cars... http://www.thinkauto.com/oilstatcolour.htm top right in this picture. again though. if you want to do it simply and easily just buy a jap kit that has the oil stat built into the remote filter mount. you can easily tell them as they'll have 4 ports on the filter mount (from block, to block, from cooler, to cooler) instead of just 2.

yeah how lame was that. it's lost a fair bit of it's character.

what's wrong with walbro pumps? well they are not direct fit for starters (no bid deal but worth considering if you're paying someone to install it). they flow far less than most people claim (as explained above) since they quote their flow figures at much lower pressures than anyone else. and they are unreliable pieces of rubbish. go to any big tuner and ask where they keep the bucket of dead walbros. every big tuning shop will have a pile of them in the corner somewhere. real, fake, whatever they have a failure rate that is astronomically higher than any other brand of pump I've seen. maybe that's because they are favoured by tight arses who then tend to skimp on other things too (like proper installation) but whatever the reason they fail at an alarming rate. ever seen a dead nismo pump? I haven't and I've personally used more than half a dozen on my own cars and sold probably 20 more and seen hundreds more. they cost double a walbro but in my eyes they are more than double as good.

i wouldn't worry about it.

earls sell an oilstat. costs about $100. the only thing is in order to fit it you need to add 4 fittings and some hose to your set-up which blows the cost out a bit. far better to get a kit like the greddy ones that have it built in. mocal sell one too. 75C is ok. 80 is ideal. but the real problem is how much longer it's taking to get up to that 75C. it's all the time spent with it at 30/40/50C etc that does the damage. hence why the oilstat's completely bypass the oil cooler core until oil temp hits 80C.

yeah I can't believe webber would intentionally position his car hoping for an accident. that's just nuts and suicidal. I doubt there is a driver on the grid who would do that. well maybe schuey would...

great news mate. hope you have a weekend of fun testing ahead of you.

dude it's totally legit. stop driving now. Epa is cuming for you.

very true. police will also most often ask leading questions hoping you will incriminate yourself. something like: "why were you speeding?" without thinking most people will quickly answer: "I'm running late for a meeting" or some thing similar. without realising it you've just admitted you were speeding. the real question was "why were you breaking the law?" and what your sentence implied is: "i was speeding (breaking the law) because I am running late for a meeting". that is admitting guilt. most often they will ask such a question when they don't have clear proof and are going to estimate your speed, or you were in a group of cars etc. by asking that question they can say in court: "the defendant admitted that he/she was speeding due to being late for a meeting". a far better answer is: "sorry officer I don't believe I was speeding". definitely be polite. there is no point carrying on with calling them carnt.....stable or humming "what's the colour of a two cent piece" while they talk to you. that type of shit just guarantees you a ticket and possibly some time wasted getting your car searched or inspected for defects too.

I never claimed it was 'proper' lol. just telling you what happens.

ze-tool is a wanker plain and simple. all logic aside that is enough reason to get behind mark and do the right thing. who cares if the little fker is quick, or flogs more seedy energy drinks? he's a wanker, and the world is slowly waking up to that fact... webber on the other hand is almost universally liked. does not whine like a little girl and works his arse off.

yeah if your wideband controller will simulate a narrow band output yes you can. doesn't really make it 'more accurate' as it's still just outputting a narrow band range for the closed loop running.

yeah it's just an oil/water heat exchanger. to make the most of it you'd need a larger than standard radiator or a second smaller radiator to cool the coolant flowing through it. they just chose to make it look fancy and mount it on the strut brace. no way would you buy it for $1000. for similar money PWR will make you a GTR radiator which is twin pass and has an oil cooler/heat exchanger built into it. used on may serious track cars. very effective in that they also help bring oil up to temp and then keep it stabilised at operating temp. so then you're getting a better radiator AND the oil cooler for the same money.

I would seriously buy Jacks RA. with the same valving 90% of drivers would not be able to tell the difference between the RA and the RS. the RS just have a bit of extra bling factor with the external reservoirs which are great if you do long races etc that really work the suspension hard but again for 90% of guys the RA are as good as RS. all the RS have over RA is the external canisters which just add some extra oil capacity for heat handling and they have 4 way adjustment instead of 2 way. to be honest it's too much adjustment for literally 90% of people. you will be lost trying to get it set up right. much easier with the RAs to get them working nicely in car. considering jacks are brand new fronts you are going to struggle to find a better set to buy either here or from japan.

turn the adjuster clockwise until it stops. that is now full hard. 5 clicks anti-clockwise from there will be full soft. don't turn it any further if 5 clicks is all it's supposed to have. if the thing just turns infinitely in both directions you have a problem.

it's designed to be used with the standard GTR sumitomo's that run 296mm rotors. so you keep your sumitmo caliper and move to a 324mm rotor. the 32 brembos already run with a 324mm rotor so obviously this kit would be of no use to anyone who already has the 32 or 33 brembos. it's a good value upgrade. add another $100-$150 and rebuild your calipers at the same time (new seals etc). pretty much any set of 32 GTR sumitomo's i've looked at was due for a seal kit. a 32 GTR with a set of 324mm front rotors, rebuilt standard calipers, some good pads and fluid is a good start for some spirited driving and the odd track day.