Beer Baron

my advice would be go with shannons. they are one of the better insurers and your first year will be $$ but I would guess your premium will quickly improve if you stay with them. plus if you do actually need to claim $7400 excess makes it not worth claiming for any accident under about $10K worth of damage (since you'll have to foot the excess and your premium will subsequently go up too). given that I think shannons is the better bet. more expensive for the first year but after that will improve.

honestly if you truly think wishbones and lack of aftermarket drift support for R32s is holding you back then I would say rather than demote the R32 from wishbones to macpherson strut just buy a silvia! it has the machpherson strut in there and working and has the extensive aftermarket support you long for. use the R32 for something else. not being a smart arse either. silvias are not exactly big money to buy. even well set-up ones can be had pretty cheap from time to time. hell I drive and drift one.

attesa pump always should prime for a few seconds when you turn ignition on. many people mistake it for fuel pump priming but in a standard-ish GTR (with say bolt in nismo pump or standard pump) the attesa pump primes much louder than the fuel pump. approx 4 seconds sound normal to me.

it's really a bit of trial and error with the spring rates. but if you are happy with them now on semis i'd definitely go up at least 20% in rate front and rear for the slicks. best to talk to someone who has a good handle on setting up a big, powerful, RWD car on slicks though. it's not as simple as 1 size fits all. harry's experience is pretty much what happens. you find a car that felt nice and 'sharp' and 'pointy' on semis suddenly has heaps of rear end grip on slicks and so much mid corner grip the thing rolls like a pig and just wants to push understeer when you are on the power. more spring helps a lot.

I have to add something here as people think it's the same mods banning people etc all the time. as to who mods the mods? that's the admin team. if you ever have an issue with the behaviour of a moderator simply copy the link to the post in question and pm an admin (like my good self). I can assure you we take the behaviour of our mods seriously and we hold them to a higher standard than we do members. any moderator who behaves inappropriately will be disciplined. if your problem is with an admin then pm another admin, or the forum owner "Prank". No one here is above reproach. We try to be as fair and as open minded as is possible. as far as a personal vendetta against paul goes I can only speak on my own behalf and speak to what I have witnessed and I certainly don't hold any grudge against paul and from what I have observed nobody in the mod or admin team does either. Most users will get a temporary ban after their 2nd or 3rd warning. After that the next step is usually a permanent ban. Sometimes when an otherwise valuable member steps out of line we do take into account their service to the forum and their years of good conduct and give some more leeway. That occurred in this case. Paul had many, many more than 3 warnings about his behaviour but he continued to break rules. We WANTED him to stay on the forum as he's an active member but in the end there is only so many times you can give people "1 last chance" before they have to be banned. I was not personally involved in the circumstances regarding paul being permanently banned so I wont post the details here. But I will say he broke some pretty important rules and didn't just break them, he smashed them. if you want to know what happened ask paul and if he chooses to he can tell you. I won't post it or discuss it as it's no one else's business and I don't want to defame him on a forum. all you need to know is this. he repeatedly broke the rules. he was repeatedly warned about what breaking the rules would result in (permanent ban) and he continued to do so anyway. it doesn't take a prophet to foresee what happens next....

bit harsh mate coming from someone who has clearly never seen a gearbox filler plug or drain plug. I could have said you clearly have no idea since you advised him to put a ring spanner on a plug that has a metric square drive female hole on it. I'd like to see how that works. but I'm far too polite for that and would have just corrected the completely useless info you posted. his concern about ending up with gearbox oil in the car is quite valid as if you're not careful that's what's going to happen. overfilling the box of course is not ideal but the excess will mostly just end up getting pushed out through the breather. to the original poster. many people open the filler and drain plugs just using a sockets square drive end. the problem is they are not exactly the right size hence the plugs get a bit stuffed. socket drive ends are imperial but there is actually a kit you can buy of the right size metric square drivers to use. most good skyline workshops should have a set. you may find with the right tool it can come out. heat it with an oxy torch first (if you can safely get on in there) and give that a try. if that fails then use the fill through the shifter method. look for a guide on installing short shifters as that will show you how to remove/replace the shifter.

my experience on slicks is limited to mostly dunlop and michelien but have used avon and khumo a couple of times too. micheleins are pretty good and I would rate them over the dunlops. they are the favoured tyre in a number of aus categories which makes them easy to get too. we had to use dunlops a few times as the event sponsor tyre and they were not as fast as the micheleins, didn't last as long as cost a bit more from memory. set-up wise you will find you can go up a fair way in spring rate as you now have plenty of grip. if you set-up is too soft all that grip will just end with lots of body roll. like harry said a new semi will not be far off for outright lap pace but the slicks do hold up better to longer stints.

if you want 440rwkw you'd be hard pressed to go past a set of HKS 2530s or HKS GT-RS. the 2530s will easily make 400rwkw and could make the 440 with some serious boost. the GTRS will make it easily. and either of those set-ups will be miles more responsive than a T04Z or a T51R. same power and much better response. I know which I'd go with. the only downside is the twins are a bit more difficult to work on. look at the Advan/Hi-Octane GTR. it makes more than the power you want and still uses small low mount twins. amazing response in it too.

you will love it mate. basically any car that costs more than a corolla is a waste of money as a corolla gets you from a-b in safety and comfort affordably. but the thing is cars aren't about money. like I said anything above a corolla is basically an emotional choice. so whether is a $50K monaro or a $400K 911 Turbo we do it because whatever the car is hits a button in us somewhere. enjoy it.

summed up very nicely. now, tell me what did you think of the radical? They are just out of this world aren't they?!?!

the house you are buying is the security.... the bank has a mortgage on the house. yes the deposit is spent on the purchase of that house, so if you lose your job and default on the mortgage they foreclose on the house you bought with them and sell it. since you paid for 10% of it they can sell it for a quick sale at 90% of what it was purchased for and get all their money back. and if you've made any principal payments then that figure is even lower. 10% deposit is sufficient to get a mortgage for the remaining 90%. in fact there are lenders out there who will cook something up for you with even less than that. personally I'd suggest 20% deposit is a good place to start not least because it negates the need for mortgage insurance which will save you a few grand. but if all you have is 10% and you think you can make at the very least the interest payments then by all means mortgage away.

yeah I do hate them, but as you point out there are many worse seats out there! they are certainly better than any factory skyline or nissan seat that's for sure. and yes harness is a must. for safety and improved lap times.

yes.... bar stewards... well that makes sense and I will now remove my tinfoil hat and accept that RBR probably aren't stupid enough to sabotage their own drivers starting spot to protect their other whinging driver from getting beaten by him. still interesting that vet started 2nd finished 4th and mark started 7th finished 5th. go webber! agree about rbr being the best of a bunch of bad cards for webber. they are still in a shit hot car so why not sign on for another year. ferrari was looking less and less likely, and the other teams like you said were not exactly greener pastures. the strategy at RBR is still piss poor in general though. they really need to apply some forward thinking to their race strategy.

for the love of god adelaidePS and nisskid both of you stop posting this nonsense. any more arguing in this thread will see some kind of warning/banning/deleting action taken. it's tedious and pointless. if you want to continue your argument then by all means use facebook or msn or pm or whatever, just not this thread.

best way to go mate. if you hunt around a bit there will be bargains out there from time to time. you should be able to score a nice velo for around the $500 mark or even less. I would also advise against the sparco sprint. it's a tubular frame seat with foam wrapped around the frame. NOT a full fibreglass bucket like the GP90 etc. They are just no where near as safe as a full fibreglass bucket seat and also no where near as comfortable. for $500 they are poor value too.

personally I wouldn't do it. especially since she wants something half decent that she can put into another car down the track. Seats are pretty bloody important safety wise. the cheap ones just don't stack up. if you're on a bit of a tight budget look at a velo or some kind. they are very affordable, made in aus and good quality. if the budget is a bit tighter still then look at getting a second hand one. something like a Velo GP90 will be a great first race seat and will last the distance too. and being aus made it's easy to get new covers, padding etc for it. this is your girlfriends life you are looking at. it would be pretty awful for her to crash and be injured by a $150 seat when a $400 seat would have protected her. a brand new GP90 is about $600 so really a small price to pay for years of comfort and protection.

'course it's nice! it's my old car. ;) man you are looking after her mate. it looks stunning. and yes way better looking than any poxy lancer.

RBR are definitely screwing webber to favour vettel. sad but it's pretty bloody clear. also, how on earth was hamilton not given a drive through? when you look up 'un-safe release' in the F1 rule book there is a diagram of that exact manoeuvre. bunch of UK biased wankers just can't stand to hand a penalty out to one of the boys... Webber in qualifying was mighty. shame he couldn't clinch P1 but he did the main job which was rub vettel in it again. I doubt there was any more time in his car. the old gearbox change was a bit odd. seemed to be working fine in qualy and since the cars aren't driven between end of Q3 and the race how did they know about this magic problem? I couldn't believe it when he started from 7th and was making UP places of the start not falling back. Webber really is a new man this year. He actually is starting to look like he could be WDC material. Farking vettel on the other hand looks like he's coming apart at the seams. he's always whining about something or other and complaining on the radio. sure sign he is feeling the heat of being a firm number 2 in his team. he might still be the favoured choice of the retards at RBR but he must surely know by now that everyone with 2 functioning eyes knows that right now he is webbers bitch on a circuit. RBR are really pissing me off with the way they treat webber. lucky he's big enough to put it aside and race.

if he's offered you your money back I would take it. It's possible that he has been scammed by the dealer but to keep insisting it's the same car is ridiculous. can you please pm me with the details of this operator? thanks. good luck with the hunt.

eps. it's bizarre not bazaar. a bazaar is where you go to buy fake Louis Vuitton handbags. carry on. mr pedantic signing off...

lol. it wasn't me! to be honest I love the 427. one of my favourite cars. if I could afford it I'd consider it. probably wouldn't pay $300K for it though. maybe $180K? It's a pretty cool piece of gear. such a shame they never got off the ground as a limited production model. I do agree though it was complete bullshit they were allowed to race it in the 24hr which states all cars must be available to the public to buy OR they can invite any car at the organisers discretion. so basically if they like you, you can bring any car you want.

let me ask around. there are bound to be some around. what size/offset do you want? I'm guessing you want to stick with 18s due to tyre availability right? we used the 19s on giants car and they were fine but not much help when you want RE55s/DZ01s or 18inch mich slicks.

sadly even they are copies. of ssr longchamp or similar...

stick with a good design bell mouth. the tiny split dumps are a waste of time. including the HKS ones.

yes it is a bit sad. looking at the rota website I cannot see any original designs. I can see enkei copies, volk copies weds copies and the list goes on. actually I think maybe the "bolognia" is original. lol. http://www.rotawheels.com/wheels.asp?wheelid=5 set of bolognia's for your race car anyone? also, I think for wheels that have next to zero cost in design (they are 'inspired' by others work) they are actually not that cheap. at $1500 a set or more for a set of 18s you are not far off the price of some good quality genuine volks on the used market. and for double your $1500 you can just about get a brand new set of TE37s which will certainly last a long long time. i've seen sets getting around over 15 years old that were still in great shape.