Stitch

I'm after series 1 headlights. Mine are in terrible condition.

Thought so.

Just wanna know if these are S1 or S2 headlights, I have a bad eye for this sort of thing! http://www.rpmgarage.com/new/detail/?tid=14942

My headlights are shitty lookin' and I'm thinking about getting a HID conversion kit. Does anyone have any suggestions or things I should be aware of when planning on doing this, or better yet looking for advice from someone who has already done it. I notice with a lot of the kits online they include 2 globes but I would need 4 would I not? Or are you only supposed to do it on the high beams?

Jaredo, the ECU I got was from an S2 Skyline. I was skeptical at first but overjoyed when I turned the car on and no HICAS light! I ditched the old one as I did have the leaking capacitors replaced to try and fix it but it was still not working.

14 months later and I finally got around the getting another HICAS ECU (thanks livicuru). Put it in, hooked it up - No more HICAS light, steering works beautifully! Very happy!

Hi all! Just wondering if anyone can tell me how what to look for on a BOSS kit to tell if it is HICAS or non-HICAS. I've been having problems with the HICAS lately and have heard that the BOSS kit can cause steering sensor problems. Thanks Ben

So I got the ECU back today. Put it in, still doesn't work.

As it says in the title I am after a working HICAS Computer for a Series 1 R-33. PM me. Cheers! Ben

I took it to an electronic repair store, they are replacing the caps as I write this. Thanks for the tip Steve, I probably would never have had the balls to mess with the ECU unless you had mentioned it earlier. As I said before, I will let you all know how it goes. Thanks again!

I have removed the HICAS ECU, taken it apart and lo-and-behold this is what I found: I shall resolder the joins and report back. If this works I will be a very happy man...

I got this quote from the GTR Canada forum: http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthread.php?p=460972

Also check this thread that I started a while ago: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/He...ow-t261851.html Same problem.

Just to clarify. I have an S1 R33 and it does not appear to have any diagnostics. I've tried it about 1000 times without success. Interesting point you make about the leaking capacitors, I am going to check mine tonight. I will report back any findings. Thanks for the tip.

Would either of these be suitable? http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ex...23334-p-30.html http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/ex...23334-p-29.html What's the difference between the button clutch and the other one? Noob much? - Ben

The clutch in my S1 R33 GTS has started slipping badly and at the moment I can't really afford to pay a mechanic to fix it. I have enough cash to buy a new clutch kit so my question is, how difficult is it to replace the clutch in one of these things? I have a few friends who are good with cars although I wouldn't exactly call them mechanics. I have heard that it isn't overly difficult but nothing really is if you already know what you are doing, unlike myself haha. Do you have any suggestions as to what clutch kit to get and anything I should be aware of if attempting to do this myself. I have access to a car hoist here at work which should make the whole exercise a bit easier. Thanks Ben

Diagnostic does not want to work for me at all. Mine is an early model. 1993. Those saying it doesn't work on the older models appear to be right, unless I'm doing something wrong but I've tried it about 10 times now. Contact cleaner on the plugs and sockets did not work, the earth straps in the rear look suspect, I will try those next.

Would the fact that I have an aftermarket steering wheel bugger up the diagnostic thing?

Yeah, it is annoying! I had the autoelectrician look at it and when he saw the battery in it he scoffed. It was far too small for the Skyline, especially with all the electronic jazz they have going on. In hindsight it was pretty obvious but I never got around to doing anything about it. At this stage I am only assuming that it is the battery, if it fails again I will post here.

No turbo timer, the car is NA

I went home last night and was ready to go mad with contact cleaner, but before I did it I started the car up after driving it home - no HICAS light. Went for a drive, turned the car off, turned it back on still no problem! This is strange as it would do it 100% of the time before. The car has now stopped and started 6 or 7 times in a row without the HICAS issue. I'm thinking it may have been something to do with the battery after all, as this is the only thing I have changed since the problem began. The old battery didn't even have enough charge to push my power windows back up and they got stuck down, this is what prompted me to change the battery.

Can you keep me in the loop and tell me what they find, I have the same problem. It's extremely frustrating! Thanks! - Ben

Just thought I'd update on my situation. The power-steering fluid was topped up when I had the car serviced about two weeks before the issue begun, this raises suspicion. I had my battery replaced with a much larger one just yesterday, this did not fix the issue. I do have an after-market steering wheel fitted which has been in the car for over 3 years, would the problem take this long to develop as far as the steering wheel is concerned? I have a can of contact cleaner, I will go crazy with it on the plugs and connectors tonight. I have also attempted numerous times to get the car to go into diagnostic mode without success. The issue does not appear to be weather related. Rain or shine the problem is still there. The power-steering is definately affected by the HICAS. The power-steering works fine when starting the car in the morning, it is only if you turn the car off and then back on that the HICAS light comes on and the power-steering does not work at all. It seems you must turn the car off, leave it to sit for about 45 - 60 minutes before you are able to start it again without the HICAS/Power-steering failure. I think this piece of information would be key to working out what the problem is. What is affected by leaving the car off? The only thing I can think of is its something heat related and I am by no means a mechanic so I might be being naive or missing something stupidly obvious. But that's what all you guys are for, right? Thanks in advance - Ben

Still no solution to this problem mate, have been busy lately. Winter coming up though I may put some more time into trying to work it out. I will keep you posted.