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AutoTrust

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Everything posted by AutoTrust

  1. there is a good chance that the wiring from compliance where they fit the dimmer (behind the cluster) has come loose, seen it before - the old twist and tape method. Seems strange that the TT is playing up, sounds like it's lost a power source too. Park light circuit is normally red with a blue trace, good luck
  2. SKYLINED you may want to contact MELV, he is the man when it comes to neon's, custom lengths are no problem.
  3. funkymonkey, Using the positive pulses from your central locking to energize 2 relays with capacitors accross the coils - one for lock and one for unlock. This will give you a base to energize the light for a period of time on arm and disarm. the output from these relays then merge via 2 3amp diodes to the positive of the light. the park light input will need a 3amp diode aswell to prevent back feed to the park light circuit. I would probably start with caps of about 2200 microfarads and just double up to increase duration. Hope this helps! Hope to see you at the boys place soon!
  4. funkymonkey you are the god of wanky features, why did I not think of that!! Thanks for the inspiration. Knight Rider LIVES!!
  5. Nice work R33man, I wish I had all that, why only .6 bar?
  6. I had a TR astra, great car, but they can break when abused, so best to get one with some warranty left on it as the parts can be expensive. I'm pretty sure you can change gears faster than on the ad!! and you dont have to have a wrinkly dog either. hondas are nice but i feel that there are too many of them around, if i had to choose between the 2 i would consider the Turbo Astra.
  7. Sad but true i missed SAU, at least now i have more episodes of Southpark! DJ_L3ThAL, you got your tan back! nice, that window tint isn't working!
  8. Looks like an alarm status LED to me, actually looks like a viper/hornet/stinger/python all brands of Directed Electronics, chances are that the remote will be missing. I pull alarms out of imports all the time because they have no key pad, or they don't conform to insurancr requirements. But you never know your luck!
  9. Check the fuses near the battery, does it have ignition lights?? check fuses in engine bay. Does the alarm appear to arm and disarm?? Chances of it being an ECU are very slim.
  10. No i haven't run diagnostics, the only noticeable difference with gear changes is 1st to 2nd gear is brutal at WOT. No hesitation shifting up, however if i stuff around with the throttle to listen to the bov, it changes a little awkwardly, like a small free rev. This is characteristic of a trans that needs maintenance or is low on fluid. I will check this in the next 2 weeks as i am a lazy bastard! I do have a long term leak on the trans cooler that could be the culprit. when i get an EBC it will be less annoying swapping between the 2 ECU's as i have to adjust the boost for the stock ecu, therefore making it easier to check transmission behaviour with the auto and manual computers.
  11. That's it....... I'm going to put my stock parts back on and fit Daewoo badges......I don't need this sort of attention!!
  12. I almost always get 400km and drive till the fuel light is on. She's an auto and i'm not afraid of the GO pedal, best has been 520 on a country drive with some WOT. Worst was 270, all with a cat back and no noticeable difference with modded ECU more boost and pod filter.
  13. How did you go borry? Did you find one???
  14. It's $165 plus a roadie, mine just went up to 180something, because I couldn't decide in time whether to go to court. It re-kindled my dislike for the few hot shot police out there who seem to think they can question everything but the dead standard hub cap clad shopping carts. GRRR
  15. Sorry forget the plastic clips they hold the cover to the Reo.
  16. Plastic clips under grille, leave to last, pull down inner plastic at front of wheel arch to gain access to bolts on top edge of side of bar. Best to remove wheels but not neccesary. also bolts through chassis rail accessed in front of wheels. The bolts from thedge of the bar to the guard can be annoying, helps to have a good socket set! Go NUTS!
  17. Your parkers are a 5watt wedge, go to a shop pull one out and say " 2 of these please"! they come out from behind the light assy in the engine bay. as for the lights next to the low beams not the high beams ..............would they be the afforementioned parkers? thats all i can help with cos i'm in melb
  18. Or have blue lights on the front bar!
  19. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=27118 did you see this?
  20. I had trouble in Sydney last christmas trying to get the right boss kit for my 33, when i got home i went to Autobarn head office and got one off the shelf, can't remember the brand but it was a pink and white box. Be sure they sell you the right boss kit, mine fits perfectly however the hicas warning light comes on when i drive in a straight line for about 5km. This is due to the boss kit not lining up properly with the hicas sensor in the steering column. Hope this sheds some light on the subject. And no this boss is for the 33 only. could be different if a series 1.5 or 2 (airbag)
  21. About $180 and easy to clear if car is roadworthy (add cost of roadworthy certificate $30 to 65) Vic roads office to clear with RWC. Some cops will defect even if car is legal.
  22. where are your rcas running, if there was no probs before i would try putting the amp some where different and run the rcas away from all car wiring eg under the carpet in the middle of floor
  23. also have you run your RCA's under the steering column or under the carpet away from the cars wiring?
  24. Well your fronts need a high pass so they play treble only and your sub/s need low pass for bass only, so if you are running seperate amps and they are hi/lo pass selectable try swapping them to see if the problem goes away. The amps are probably different power ratings but it is just a test so lower your gains. another problem can be that your gains on your amps are too high, you should set your gains as low as poss and your head unit volume to about 90%, as a rule of thumb. I know it can be time consuming but most car audio development is.If you just lower the frequency then you will miss out on high notes and it will sound dull. good luck
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