AutoTrust

Undo your kick and scuff panels and pull the rca's away from the computer and the main wiring harness and have a listen, if it's still the same go see jay car and ask them if you can try another amp.

Chances are that it is an amp. Skylines rarely have problems with this, also some amps will only whine on high frequencys 1st stop should be Jaycar if it's a new amp and try another. if they wont help then make them. make sure that your Rca leads are good quality and dont run too closely to electronics such as the ECU.

Hippy, get into your car turn the key to acc put your foot on the brake and the gear selector can be moved! it is only when the ignition is on or the engine is running that the shift lock is active. my car is auto too and i was going to fit a transponder immobilizer to the shift lock and found this out. get a viper paging system. and if your goodies aren't on display they won't tempt some asphole to break in. Also bear in mind that the harder things are to remove the more likely they will be damaged beyond repair. Be careful where you park your car.

Well, after your tune you'll have more of an idea of what it isn't. these things are usually not fixed easily, the more information you can give about the conditions when the missfire happens the better. Also, nissans run different parameters when the engine is cold, this is to protect the engine. you should avoid caning until the temp gauge reaches normal operating temperature. I found i had less missfiring problems when the engine was cold but when the engine warmed up and the air was cold outside misfiring was more pronounced. Good luck

sky^rkt Chances are that your ECU is responsible for the missfire, when you fitted the exhaust you removed a restriction from your engine allowing it to boost more, the factory ECU could be retarding your timing and or cutting your fuel, you may also find the problem to be more pronounced when the air is cold in the morning or at night. Are you still running stock boost?

The VVT actuator is on the front of the cam cover. it is round and made of cast alloy.

I think you are right there streamer, however i have seen some pretty bad fading on the rear seats but not so bad on the lower part. And yes i'm pretty sure that smoking is bad for all....including cars! mind you i'm sitting in my garage writing this while i smoke sitting on a mint SAAS recliner....shame it's too old scool for the skyline!

I'm an auto electrician and it took me 10 minutes to find the battery in an A class mercedes, it was under the drivers carpet mat!! Mind you it then took me fifteen minutes to fit the tracking system so i had a win there. My boss gave up after 5 min and said "that's what i pay you for".

I'm not sure, I'm not a big Bambi fan. Mabe Nanna was!

thes0pranos my grandma once told me "if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything" zymotic, enjoy your ride

I anit' gonna fall for no bannana up the tail pipe!

I would love to come along if i can get all 14 pieces of body kit painted and fitted in time. I want to prove that 4 doors can be cool too!!

Probably a hundred or so, and there aren't many trim colour variations It's fairly common in Vic for wreckers to bring in entire non turbo wrecks for parts. Try your luck.

You got it easy streamer, i had a jump start battery short out and set fire to the floor, door trim and various bits and pieces behind the drivers seat while doing 100 on the freeway!!! you should have seen the wicked 3 lane veer followed by an ABS test and sacrificed my favorite jumper to get the fcuking flaming barstud out!! I see some classy seat covers on the horizon for you!! Or mabe a trip to the wreckers for a replacement seat. Not as hard to come by as carpet for a 4 door. In the mean time sit Elmo on the scar!

Stevo is it a series 1, 1.5 or 2? if its a series 1 have you tried another igniter module? Seems like you've replaced all the normal problem parts. This sounds electrical and it"s boost related so try another MAP sensor. Hope your'e monitoring vitals on the dyno like fuel pressure, new parts can be faulty and you need to know that all your bases are covered. Hope this helps Good luck..

Max GT its your computer (ECU) Auto skylines have a different and more conservative program and a link to the auto trans computer that will retard ignition timing sooner than a manual and perform a fuel cut sooner at higher boost levels. This has been a big problem for me for 12 months! Anyway I bit the bullet and tried a modified manual computer.... and YEAH BABY YEAH!! now i'm running 1 bar boost and have to be careful changing to second because there is no rev cut now so savage gear changes are all the go. Also if your going to try this, then make sure to get a dyno tune afterwards to be sure. Strich9ine i don't know if this helps buddy but if your car is a manual and a series 2 and you want some split fire coil packs then drop J-SPEC a line. [email protected] They have a new set collecting dust in the office! it also wouldn't hurt to try a mates ECU. the ecu in mine caused all sorts of problems in the previous car and we tried every thing to no avail just to find that it was the ECU. Hope this helps guys. Have a nice day.

From experience in one of J-SPEC's R33's all you need is a rollcage, painfully stiff suspension, aggressive aftermarket LSD the usual power up mods and some skill or practice. Mabe a nappy!! If these things are above budget then wait for rain. and like me...... keep dreaming.

Not to mention the fact you can park a camry anywhere without stressing.

You need to take your car and boost gauge to a decent shop and make sure that it all fits up. I don't know the measurements so i won't guess. Take a nice relaxing cruise tomorrow and i'm sure you'll get it sorted. The nylon hose supplied is good, and i would use it if possible.

MEH!! To each his own... I like the sound of BOVs.. I like my excessively loud exhaust too..... I don't expect anyone else to, but i love it when people take notice.

Take a cruise to Cranbourne or Dandenong they will have a better idea and service i would guess. the gauge should come with the accessories you need anyway? and the nylon hose is as good as rubber if not better.

Just over a year, much better than my supercharged VX "S'

The easiest and most common place to fit your T piece is at the front of the inlet manifold using the hose on the fuel pressure regulator. Get your fittings from an auto shop like Autobarn and take the gauge with you so you make sure everything fits properly.

Nice work boostmeister, I'll try that mod soon, I have an auto R33 and had stalling problems initially caused by the atmospheric venting BOV not recirculating the boost pressure back into the inlet, this was rectified by tightening the spring in the BOV. the reason it stalled was because the transmission would shift into second gear thus dropping the rpm, ususlly while backing off around a corner at low speed. I am now playing with a modified computer from a manual 33 that comes with its own stalling problems as well as dropping cylinders occasionally but this is ok condidering i am running 0.9bar now and the transmission computer is unable to kill the engine when shifting gears with wide open throttle. Oh and i believe An AAC is an IAC (Idle Air Controller) It is responsible for maintaining the correct idle speed when an accessory is used eg. Aircon cycling, power steering, headlights etc. Yes your headlights will affect engine speed a little as the alternator becomes harder for the engine to turn when its electrical load increases.

The computer has intermittent problems with stalling thats why J-SPEC gave it to me to play with, its firmly mounted under the floor mat so i can throw stuff at it at traffic lights when it starts running on less than 6 cylinders!!! thanks for the heads up on the apexi ECV hurting the cat i'll up it's intake of whiskas to keep it healthy! Have you mounted your Power FC?