lee81

Been a while since I've checked in on this thread, but a while back I packaged all the source code up and provided comprehensive instructions on how to compile the source code. So if you have basic to intermediate level programming, you should be able to compile (and tweak/update as required), for newer model phones. I used this succesfully for 1-2 years, main problem was when I went on holiday for a few weeks, my car battery would go flat if I forgot to disconnect it all. gps_tracker_src_141109.zip

Sold!

Price drop $7500 (firm). If no interest soon I'll be handing over to car yard to sell by consignment.

bump - had roadworthy inspection this afternoon, car now has safety certificate

Price drop $8500

Price drop, $9000. I've posted up on carsales (has additional details there as well), just search for license plate '625JZH' (in the keyword field). It is the factory color, though undercoat starting to appear on spoiler where connects to boot . Even so it does brush up nice - I was dead keen on this colour when buying as it looks great. Now located in Annerley

Moving overseas in a few months, so selling my fairly light use Skyline R33. Purchased as fresh Japan import with 104'000 on the clock in early 2007, has 122'000 now, mainly from weekend use on highways. Have original RACQ and Carmen imports condition reports from when I purchased, has since had a few services with Dan from ERD. Six cylinder manual, 2.5L (RB25), build date: 9/1993. Only modification is a turbo timer. I will arrange roadworthy prior to sale. The air conditioning stopped working towards the end of last summer. I went to fix it, but was quoted $600-$750, so figure will leave that for new owner to decide. Report came back there is leak under the dash. Has mid range speakers installed (running through 600W amp), nothing amazing, but better than your stock setup. Optionally I'll throw in GPS security tracking hardware, just pop in a sim card and you're set - get a notification via SMS if your car starts moving, telling you precisely where it is. I'm still trying to settle on a fair price, so you're welcome to PM offers, but if they're considerably lower I'll have to wait until I've had it on the market a bit longer before deciding. Can add additional pics on request. There are a couple of light scratches on the paintwork (think cat claws), might be possible to buff them out, but just want to give people the heads up on condition. Can't make it out too well in the picture, but where the spoiler meets the window the paint is thinning out (can see the white undercoat coming through). Has always been under cover or garaged for the time I've owned it. Located near Brisbane CBD

Subwoofer sold. Offers for amp?

For sale are some audio components I've had in storage for quite some time now, but expect to be moving overseas in a few months - so all have to go! Pickup only from New Farm, Queensland - as they're all very heavy (and I can't be bothered posting the cheapie alpine amp). Except for the active inline crossovers, I can post those (paypal), but still prefer pickup! Have a second shiva sub available for pickup from Perth, Western Australia (that I left there when moving to Brisbane). PM or phone 0439639394 Autotek XS 900.2 ('stealth') 2 channel amp. $280 Purpose built to have a small profile, hence being part of the Autotek 'stealth' series of amplifiers. Imported from US as wanted a high current amp (meaning can handle a 1ohm load, per channel). Manual states 'Do not use less than 2ohm in bridge mode' and 'Do not use speakers in parallel for less than 1ohm load per channel'. Power rating listed as: - 175 Watts X 2 Channels @ 4 Ohms - 350 Watts X 2 Channels @ 2 Ohms - 450 Watts X 2 Channels @ 1 Ohm - 700 Watts X 1 Channel @ 4 Ohms Bridged - 900 Watts X 1 @ 2 Ohms Bridged Fuse is rated at 60A, which should give you an idea of true RMS output. Other specs: - Built in high (75..750hz) and low (40hz..150hz) filters, 12db/octave - Subsonic filter 30hz (-3db) - Dimensions 10.5"W x 2.3"H x 18.3"L I'm open to offers on this one, as while I paid plenty for it when purchased some time back, I think prices have come right down. So bear with me, make an offer if you like, but I'll need to give it some time for advertising to circulate before I accept. If you can provide references to sales of similar second hand items, I'm all ears. This amp was purchased after poring over god knows how many reviews, trying to find quality amplifier for the right price. It was marketed as competition grade (whatever that means lol). Great condition but has some tiny scratch marks which you can make out in photo. Adire audio shiva 12" subwoofer. $60 12" subwoofer rated at 600W max (one way xmax of 15.1mm). Dual voice coil (8ohm), wire in parallel for 4ohm. Think continuous power handling is in 300W range. Not a pretty sub, but rates highly (has excellent low frequency response). If you google 'adire audio shiva review', you'll see the feedback is top notch. These can work for home cinema as well, since each coil is 8ohm. Alpine 3542 160W RMS 2 channel amp. $20 I wanted a cheap but decent amp, so purchased this second hand. It was cheap because it's so beaten up looking (I wouldn't treat my amp like that!). Works fine though, grab a bargain! Output Power at 14.4V: 2 x 60W @ 4 ohms (0.08% THD) 2 x 80W @ 2 ohms (0.3% THD) 1 x 160W @ 4 ohms bridged (0.3% THD) S/N Ratio: 105dB Fuse: 30A Dimensions: 8.6" x 7.1" x 2" (21.9cm x 18.1cm x 5.1cm) Harrison Labs FMOD inline active low pass crossover circuit (70hz). $10 ea Amp doesn't have an electronic crossover built in? These crossovers are placed inline, where the RCA feeds into the amplifier, to give you a low pass crossover. Have two available. - Crossover point 70hz - 12db/octave

Hi good to hear it seems to have gone smoothly, were than any bits of the install guide that had you confused (felt needed more detail?). The BT339 should work fine, I'll be interested to hear how it goes. As an update, a little after 3 months I got the dreaded "GPS tracker offline" from my car . There's not much I can do for the BT338/Motorola L6 combo, I can only hope newer models fix this problem. In the meantime I'm content to reboot the GPS unit every 3 months after getting this notification . The most important thing is that it never goes offline without you knowing about it, which is what happens currently. Yeah it wouldn't take much to parse the speed information sent out by the unit, I'll note it down and add this for next release. I'm pretty sure the iphone cannot run java applications, unfortunately this is the only platform I know how to compile on mobile phones. I recall the iphone can be left in bluetooth discoverable mode, so at least it can be used as an arming device no problems. The GPSRemote application is *really* basic, it simply sends an SMS message on a specific port (for example, sends sms to number '0123456789:1111'). If you can find out how to get the iphone to send messages on a port, I can give you details on how to use it to perform remote queries. Maybe the default message client allows this, I just know the Motorola won't allow you the use the : character in the phone number field.

I think the only difference is how the unit arms (via polling bluetooth) - the GPS GSM unit sounds great though. In truth, if I had found such a unit about 12 months ago when I first started toying with this project, I probably would have just grabbed one of those . I only developed the software because I couldn't find something that didn't have an annual monitoring fee. However the price can't be beaten, the Motorola phones are cheap ($40-$50 second hand these days), so total cost would be in the order of $120-$130. I was also having a look to see if there exist bluetooth activated power relays (so you could perform remote commands on your car). Sounds like the device mentioned in previous post might have that covered, would be excellent if the price is right.

Well after a long 8 months of testing, I believe I've finally ironed out all the bugs. I've also added a pretty cool feature, viewing real time tracking data over google maps. I also found that exetel has a postpaid mobile SIM plan with no ongoing costs (same plan has cheap pay on demand GPRS internet). This means you can have GPS tracking in your car with *no* annual fees whatsoever, you only pay when you actively request the location, or the car is sending you alerts . Attached is the zip file containing everything you need to get up and running. Also contains a detailed user guide, which details all features and how to use them. New features include: - View location of your car in real time, using google maps. Only cost incurred is cost of GPRS data usage, for data sent from mobile phone to your computer (which is minimal, just a few hundred bytes per minute). You can test this feature using emulation mode, to preview how it works. - Battery low warning sent via SMS - Most parameters configurable (such as 'stolen' alert distance thresholds, battery warning levels) Now I need to mention that soak tests (running for prolonged periods of time) are ongoing. So as noted in the documentation, I haven't tested as much as I'd like. There is a chance bugs exist in the hardware I've recommended that will cause the tracker to drop out after a few months. I can fix software bugs, but not hardware bugs.. At worst, it means the tracker will go offline, but it will send you an SMS letting you know it's no longer active - you then need to manually power cycle the GPS unit to get it running again. I've been running the tracker continously since 30-July, so that's 8 weeks of continous operation - I'm hopeful it will continue running this way indefinitely. Any questions let me know! Cheers gps_tracker_240808.zip

What are the costs involved with the ezy2c? I couldn't find any prices, but it looks to be pretty close to what I've been trying to achieve. If the geo-fencing is automatic (i.e. fixed radius about the area it was armed), it would be great if the price is right. There are a bunch of new products coming to the market, but they all seem to have in common high ongoing fees . I would be fine with forking out $400-$500 for a tracker unit *if* I didn't have to fork out for a so called 'monitoring' fee.

Well I've had the opportunity for a lot of testing since my earlier posts, unfortunately the testing cycle is long. It takes several weeks to test stability fixes, as that's how long it takes for stability issues to crop up. I suspect they are hardware related (I don't think mobile phone java applications were designed to run for weeks/months on end). It's my intention to post the software on the forum at the point I've had it running for several months uninterrupted, but still getting to that point. Right now there is just one issue remaining. After about a week or more, the phone stops receiving data from the GPS unit. There is nothing to indicate a problem has occurred, it's just as if the GPS unit stops sending out information. When the tracker application detects no new data is coming from the GPS, it now sends a message telling you it's offline (so you will always know it's stopped working). At this point you can manually go and restart phone and GPS unit, to get it working again (obviously tedious, and needs to be fixed). If data stops coming through, the most obvious workaround is to disconnect and reconnect from within the tracker software, but this doesn't work (it's as though the phone or GPS bluetooth hardware has locked up, requiring a hard reset). Note GPS comms offline is not to be confused with GPS being unable to get satellite fix. If the GPS unit is under cover (unable to get a position from satellites), it still transmits bluetooth data to phone; you won't get 'offline' notifications just because GPS unit is in an undercover carpark etc (which is normal), only if GPS unit stops communicating altogether. I've had it running continuously for just over a month in my car, without this problem showing up. However I left my car for two weeks without giving it a drive, and the car battery went flat - so I'm not sure how long it would have gone for. Someone running the same version of software reported the issue within a week or two, so there's still some fixes required. It might be a case of trying different hardware (phone and/or GPS unit), but I haven't got around to that stage yet. If the software revision I just finished still exhibits the bluetooth connection dropout, I'll start testing with different hardware to confirm whether or not that's the problem (out of ideas from the software side). Some other notes: - Have observed 'bad' GPS readings coming through (suspect a single corrupt reading comes through, in between good data). Not sure if software or hardware, but latest software performs filtering to prevent these bad readings from raising false alarms. - Regularly leave car for a week without driving, and car battery remains OK with tracker installed. Took somewhere between 8-12 days to drain my car battery dead flat - so power consumption of phone and GPS unit is moderate. - I mentioned in my first post the BT-338 turns off after 10 minutes once external power disconnected, even if external power is then reconnected. Need to clarify it only turns off if external power remains disconnected (if you reconnect external power it will stay on). Will be testing shortly with Holux M-1000, which has a slide (on/off) power switch; shouldn't have any auto-shutdown issues with this model. To answer your question Trav, I haven't looked into any hardware programming (PIC/microcontroller). By removing the need for the bluetooth between phone and GPS, it would save on hardware costs, power usage, and improve stability - but this kind of thing is beyond my abilities .

I've asked the question on a GPS forum (which GPS wouldn't suffer from this shutdown problem), but never got any feedback . There's definitely a model out there that doesn't have auto-shutdown, I believe it has a toggle on/off switch (so remains either on or off), but it's slightly more expensive, and I don't know about the sensitivity. I have my doubts about the most recent GlobalSat model as well, I suspect it would have the same issue, GlobalSat haven't replied to my enquiry about the problem . It's going to be a case of trial and error, when I set it up for a mate I'll use a different model, and see if it's any different.. It's happening because of the 10 minute auto-shutdown when no bluetooth active (power saving), it's just bugged because it's not detecting the bluetooth connection as active if you establish bluetooth connection *before* fixed power is cut. If you connect to GPS after power is cut, it won't shut down (until battery runs out). Car charger for the GPS, the BT-338 unit comes with the car charger. Phone as you mentioned uses its own car charger. I think it's 5V as you've stated, definitely don't wire 12V directly to either device .