-Stokesy-

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I'd be in for a group buy. What would i be looking at for delivery to Melbourne?

congratulations, Can't wait for the pics!!!

Pat - That's really cool i might give it a go in the holidays flyT - What?

You might find that the 8" speakers are too deep for the parcel shelf unless you make some really fat spacers for them.

Rear speakers - no Amp - Yes is $1000 for head unit speakers and amp? I've installed type R's into a few mates cars and they sound good for the money. If you went the alpine amp you'd only need the f300 and bridge it to 2x150w or if you want a cheaper option the Jaycar amps are great value for money, I've got one sitting at home waiting to go in a mates car.

Thanks Jack i was planning my responce then realised that you pointed out basically everything i wanted to say!!! I also couldn't be bothered reading the post One more thing I wish to add is apart from aesthetics or SPL comps i can't think of any reason for having more then one sub. I have a single G5 and when it's turned up close to full i can only stand it for under a minute before it starts to actually hurt my ears. One good sub will out perform 2 cheaper subs any day.

Have a look on the back of the unit and see if it has a video rca in, if it doesn't then no i wouldn't imagine you could. The gps unit that came in my car wouldn't play dvd's

Without model numbers, or at least brand names there isn't really much help we can give you.

That's not really true there are many advantages to having your tweeters in the kicks: - There's more room - They're not on display - They're an equal distance from the listener as the mids - you can create a deeper sound stage as they are further from the driver Just have a play around with different locations and see which sound you prefer.

They last longer upright, really? I've never heard that but then again I've ever really looked into in... It just makes it so much easier to access the terminals this way, I might look into this as i really don't want to kill a $400 battery

I have mine installed up on the A-Pillar. I've attached a couple of pics to show L&R, they look reasonably standard so they don't attract too much attention from prying eyes. Pardon the shit pics...

Hey mate, sorry for the delay i completely forgot about it. Here is a pic of my terminals i can't really get a better pic as i've reinstalled my amp rack. As you can see they're RF dual 0Ga + Dual 8Ga

I redid the terminals in my car, I'll get a pic up for you tomorrow.

Any chance of getting just the wing end caps? Or how much for the whole wing but no boot?

+1 for the m80 The most important thing to remember is, do not skimp on the install!!! It doesn't matter how good your alarm is, if it's installed poorly you have just wasted your money. Where abouts do you live? then we can recommend you a good installer.

True, but having said that the load limit of a cable is how much current it will take before it start to get too hot, once your getting up to there power loss is the least of your worries I agree 12g is large but given the amount i spent on my amps and speakers i wanted to transfer every watt i could, plus it's just as easy to run 12g as it is to run 16g and the cost difference is marginal.

For the bulb, as you said just pull out the cluster and remove the bulb. The ignitor just sends a signal to the bag to deploy it, you can pull that out to save weight as well. Also not sure where they are on a r34 but you can pull the G-sensors for the SRS system as well

That's a good point. But given that the only real place you have in a skyline to mount an amp is the boot, by the time it gets from the amp through the door and on to the speaker it is close to 6m. It also depends on the amount of power you're running as the loss in the cables is proportional to the current squared. I'm running close to 200wrms a side so i felt 12g was required, plus i like fat cable

Yeah i ran my cables through the molex plugs in my R33 and it was a massive job!! to have a shop do this they would change you close to $500. In my car i have 2 runs of speaker cable on both sides and an optical from the head unit to the boot. As mentioned by sapphiregraphics the best option is to run new cable to the door then use the existing cable from there.

Mine does this every now and then as well, do you find that your steering get hard when it's not working?

The stock boost is 7psi not 14, with the restrictor removed they run at a bit below 13psi. This is the maximum i would run the standard ceramic turbos on. As paul mentioned anything above that and you should be saving for new turbos and possibly a rebuild. Mine runs at 12.7 psi and i've got 263awkw so you shouldn't need to be anywhere neer 17PSI.

I've got a full Nismo system. It's very quiet and doesn't attract much attention at all.

you could get a better / less drony exhaust. Otherwise you'll need to pull the interior out and do the floor, it's not as hard as it sounds and it will make a massive difference

I reckon the boot is a great idea, mainly because that's how mine are mounted