partyboy73

This is gold!! I went 10 months with an on/off window which then was just off (thankfully up!) and after reading this I spent just half hour getting the relay out and soldering it and BAM!! I have my window back! Nice one dude

Only reason I did'nt go with the lock bar at first is because its defectable and very detectable.. The shim kit I have hides under the racks boots and the electronic lock is tucked away, so you'd have to do some serious messing around to find that its been locked out.... All I need to do is get the bastards in tho! Think I might try some more this weekend to get it into mode and failing that I'll just pull the lines and deal with the mess...

I have just installed a Tomei hicas electronic lock on my 32 but I cant get the bastard into diagnostic mode to do the next step which is putting the shims in the rack.. I thought I could remove the lines and move the rack by hand then just bleed the system but if anyone has a better idea I'm all ears...

Would'nt the height difference from drivers side to passengers side be there to compensate for the weight of the driver in the car...? my 2.2 cents (GST incl.)

I would suggest that you get the proper sealant for the job, take the lights out, pour out the water thru the holes for the bulbs, let it all dry and then seal it back up. Job done! You could drill the holes, it would work, but its not going to fix the problem and its not going to stop your rust problem on the terminals and in the boot... Someone has done the resealing on an R32, looks simple enough..

Nice one dude! Thats it but mines a 4 - Door.. Shame about the price! Wah! Cheers for that man

Anyone have an idea of where to get new interior window rubbers (the ones that are fitted to the doors interior trim)..? Mine have bunched up and the windows are dragging on them.. Need to sort this out before I get the windows tinted and before it burns the motors out!

Nice one... Looks to be standard so reckon I could benefit from a replacement! Thanks for the imput guys

+1 also what Ohm's of resistance should each lead have?

Sounds like a filters a filter in any language but where is it? Last guy had a bosch 040 put in so you'd expect them to change the filter yeah? After 165k km's... If I can get a look at it I could tell if its old or new

No, I'm worried that if I replace it then some other weirder, worse thing will happen... How would I go about checking for a crossed circuit?

Just wondering where the fuel filter is and how often I should change it...? I have a 1990 R32 GTST

This is a bit of a strange one so curious to see if anyone can work it out... Firstly one of my brake lights blew so as you do I changed it.. this is when things got strange cos after that I noticed that the left two lights were brighter than the right two, but when I pushed the brake pedal they swapped so the right ones were brighter and the left lighter... Then one of my reverse lights blew and since then all four of my rear lights have been as bright as if I was riding my brakes and when I do put the brakes on they only get brighter by the smallest amount... This senario was the most consistent and so I have not worried about it until I got pulled up and told to get it sorted. Does anyone have the slightest idea what is going on?

In SA there is only one.. Its red at the bowser and 98 and does it for me! With the GTR gettin 400 out of 3/4 tank, that sounds wicked but I also found the last 1/4 goes real quick!

I was just wondering that since I'm using a quality fully synthetic oil do I need to still do a change every 5000kms like I have been or could I easily get away with stretching it out more? and if so how much more?

I originally used caltex vortex until I was told it is actually only 96 RON! I then changed to Shell V-Power and noticed a difference in power and economy. Have never used BP ultimate (4c thing) but heard good about it. I get 430 - 450 kms down to empty (roughly 45 - 47ltrs) out of my R32 RB20DET 4-Door and thats only giving it the occational squirt as I drive it daily and need to save $$ and demerit points (one left due to two 80 in 60 zone busts in one week ) Only had it a year now and really impressed with the economy verses power ratio, big thumbs up to nissan!!

Bugger... Thanks for the feedback guys, much appreciated.

I have a GFB stealth BOV to fit to my R32 and was wondering if anyone knew for certain if its legal in SA since it can be changed from plumbback to vent...? Got pulled up tonight and passed but was wondering if I'd be so lucky if I had this fitted...

Looking at two types of heat wrap for my S/S split front/dump pipe and was wondering if anyone knew how hot it gets...? One wrap is rated at 600c and the other at 380c. Would go for higher one but is $50 for 10mtrs delivered and the other is only $30 for 15mtrs delivered... On a budget Any positive comments would be good

What series is it? Pics? K's? Also was it an R32 Rb20 you were to fit it to and if so what were you going to need to change? I was under the impression that they were a direct swap for 32 ones.. Cheers Mike

Excuse me for jumping in here... But since my knowledge of skylines is limited and I actually know this one I just cant help myself.. These are for gtst because gtr rear ones dont have the round mounts with the rubber at the bottom but instead have a square "C" shape with no rubber.. gtr front ones fit gtst but I think they may lower the car slightly.. Thats my 2.2 cents (gst inc.)

Any chance you'd seperate the front/dump and cat then post to adelaide...? Big ask i know but if so $$?

Greddy copy type RS BOV Brand new $70 delivered from Adelaide Mike - 0437040742

I need one of these but i cant see how i would be able to fit my BOV to it... wheres the second flange?! am i missing something...? please PM me...

About how many k's have they done? interested..