ssshonky

good writeup there and very simple hey? the only problem is if another driver ever gets into your car and looks at the + and - indicators they might do some damage. I guess you can just tell em hey?

well if the old adage is true - that like attracts like - your blue neon washer nozzles will probably attract more blue ( and red) lights - attached to a cop car haha.. man .. dont do it .. they look soooo crap and will bring shame on the house of neesan!

or you could go the 2.6L twin turbo option - though I dare say that would do SFA for the fuel econ debate haha

I am no expert on the matter but I wonder if its either coilpacks breaking down ( quite common ) or boost cut? does it do it between ( or during ) actual gear changes? I presume from your description you have an auto? our stagea does a strange little braap braap type hesitation / noise between shifts and I am lead to beleive it might be boost cut ( is this the same as R&R? ) I am sure someone will come on here and give you a more definate answer.

far out man .. thats a pretty massive discrepancy! and to be honest.. you dont know if the injector cleaner really did a whole lot or not? I wonder if you ran a tank full of super high octane I wonder if you would get a fantastic fuel economy reading. I wonder if the motors are just unhappy at running 98 ron

a large repco or something like that should be able to help you out. yes an LED solution would be better. less power draw and wouldnt heat up as much you can prob convert it to LED by just putting a resistor inline with the LED to bring the voltage down to the right level - Jaycar or somehwere like that should have nerd staff to help you out

is the car super low? could it be the wheel rubbing against anything as the car " squats " on takeoff?

I think its a case of horses for courses you know? we are all individuals yaddah yadda etc and. its a good advertisment for their shop if your a magna owner that wants a quick magna.

that is quite intersting.. is the take over only in the eastern states? I cant see a massive company like BP just disappearing from the face of the earth . and they must KNOW that all these performance car people swear by 98 well over here in WA I have not noticed any change in the 98 , mind you we only have a Heavy Stagea that does not get booted around in anger that frequently.

I suppose its the lesser of 2 evils

I live in perth - and yeah.. you want to beware of provoking d1ckhead drivers, but I wouldnt classify it as a rough city , its ironic though that dickhead drivers have the gall to get fired up and attack people!

intersting you should say that - I dont know if the EBAY page that I looked at had recently been updated -but I did go there and have a look as to how much the controllers were going for ( as I had my original one maybe 3 -4 years ago ) and on the ebay page he made special mention of a " newly designed hole to prevent boost spike" so maybe he has reviewed his design in later years. and yes.. tehy are very sensitive to change - so really gotta take care when adjusting it.

if you do change boost controllers - and only want one boost setting -try the $30 turbotech one. I think you might be surprised as to how well it responds. Well seeing as I have never experienced the boost buildup in the 26 I am not really one to comment I suppose. Running rich is obviously safer for your motor- so I guess personally I would prefer to sacrifice a bit of power / fuel econ to have a bit more protection for the motor.

you sure thats not coilpacks breaking down ? before you go to the expense of getting a SAFC - try gapping the plugs down a bit that might help the spark stay put under boost.

if you ever loose your ball ( note I didnt say BALLS ! ) I got a spare one kicking around somewhere,. yeah had this boost T in my pulsar ( solid engine mounts so rattled like a mofo ) and yea the nut that secures the big arse alan bolt was loose and the whole lot just rattled apart! so its important to really get that nut nice and tight

umm .. doenst actually show boost pressure on that graph I mean you can get an IDEA thru the power curve - but cant really see if boost is dropping off I mean I an not doubting what your telling me .. and all this is really subjective you know? I mean I got no proof that it spools quicker. Just my perception

well took me a bit longer cause I wanted to " baseline " what boost the stagea was already running ( as it was 100% stock we didnt have a boost guage in there , so yeah just seeing what PSI on what revs etc! I got it down to under a minute to get out of the car - pop the bonnet - adjust controller close bonnet and get back in car. Needless to say I had to do it a few times

yeah.. but what would be interesting to see is: how well the factory controler ( solenoid I think ) holds boost what RPM does it start to build full boost. you might find that the turbotech one comes on harder and faster than factory that is certainly my take on it. thats what my ass-dyno tells me. and I dont know if removing that restrictor did anything either..

I know there are lots and lots of threads about the turbotech boost controllers.. so I wont go into that side of things ( as you can read the reviews and make up your own mind ) But what I DID want to say is that I reckon its made a hell of a difference. I installed the loaner boost guage ( thanks Jerome ) and basically got a feel of that boost it ran thru the rev range. I then followed the how-to for installing the manual boost controller ( I removed the restrictor pipe as well ) - not sure if removing the restrictor pipe made any difference... but it definately didnt hurt anything. and the verdict? I reckon the car builds boost faster and definately feels more responsive. I honestly cant tell you how many rpm earlier it gets on boost but the SOTP Dyno tells me there is an improvement. so yeah.. for the $29 for the turbotech boost controller and maybe 1/2 a days work - I would definately ( strongly even ! ) suggest that Stagea owners give it a try. I was pleased with the results!

thanks for writing all that.. was interesting to read that your tune did little to increase your fuel econ .. and yes.. we dont seem to be getting consistant answers as to if people converted to manual from auto the fuel economy got better. Hey you mentioned the MV Valve body kit? what is that? does it fit into the auto box? I too am curious about the comment that was made that the torque converter seems to loose a fair bit of power? or something like that!

trap for young players! very valid point to have a look at indeed!

can you tell us what boost you were running before you dropped it? and what is the timing currently set to ?

oh and two things that might cause you major hassles. 1) - they tried to fail us outright on the dark tint of the rear windows and the rear of the car so we asked them to get the testing unit out and we passed. what we DID fail on is the fact that the car did not have an immobiliser. So BE WARNED - make sure your car has a working immobiliser ( and test it yourself too ) if it does not have an immobiliser your going to need to get one fitted BEFORE you go over the pits. good luck matey!

but you see thats pretty bloody good.. most people are struggling to get 400k till the light comes on. so what about yours is different? to be honest if we ever get to the bottom of it I think we will find one common link between the cars and sh1t fuel econ ( other than the fact they are a lard-arse wagon with a slush box )

so its like those G-force sensitive stickers you can put on packages that goes red if it experiences over a certain amount of Gforce? thats pretty cool !