ssshonky

hmm monday the 17h hey? I am 99% sure that was me but the only thing that confuses me is I was only in that area AFTER lunch.. so maybe it wasnt me ( cries ) we passed a white stagea whist we were moving a matress into my sisters rental .. you would think that a stagea with a body kit and a queen sized matress strapped to the roof would kinda stick out .. but the matress was only on for maybe 3 km's total

PM Dale *Stinky Rooster* as I think he has a stag he might be parting out

what condition is your cat converter in ? if its blocked could cause restriction and thus make your motor work harder - specially when you boot it

dont forget though that the higher compression motor should make MORE power than the equivalent boost on a DET motor. So running 7psi thru a +T conversion will net you more power than 7psi on a standard DET motor. I have always been of the school of thought that going a DET motor straight up is going to be a hell of a lot easier than doing a bolt on turbo. But mind you done correctly a +T motor can give you good reliable power day in day out .. just need to be realistic about how much HP you want to get out of it.

then there is us haha.. 3 child restraint points and just the 2 of us rattling around inside the stagea ahahhah..

yeh the use of the bleed screw is good information indeed! perhaps a pocket of air is causing problems so the Greddy guage has its own sensor.. so if the 2 ( the Greddy and the factory guage ) both increase at the same time you can basically remove the possibility of one of the sensors being dodgy. now.. I am not sure on the skyline motors but on the sr20det's I know there are 2 temp senders one that sends info to the guage and another that feeds the ECU the engine temp . so maybe clean and re-seat your temp sender?

good to see it all worked out in the end ! you were lucky not to spill any.. when I did it oil went everywhere !

sounds to me like you need your spring rates looked at. or if you really want to be able to adjust your dampening and rebound then yes your going to have to go for a set of fully adjustable coil overs.

BAH ! amateurs! everyone knows side pipes need to exit in the panel behind the front wheel but before the passengers door! I reckon side pipes look excellent.. well maybe not THAT one..but it just screams ANGRY !

have you checked that your wastegate actuator is working ok? ie its not sticking or anything is it?

are you sure you have a reliable baseline to compare to? you state that your standard temp guage looks ok .. so I guess what I am trying to say is are you sure all the other 34's dont operate at this range? maybe just because you can now see a numerical readout of the temperature vs a guage readout your just a tad paranoid? I was under the impression ( and someome PLEASE correct me if I am wrong ) that standard radiator systems can get close to and above 100 oC ( boiling ) and not boil over because they are a sealed system I am by no means an overheating guru but thats just my thoughts on the matter.

hmmm . . not to sound like an @sshole but those turbosmart boost controllers are notoriously crap! they do tend to spike, I foudn the turbotech ones far better ( not to mention heaps cheaper ! ) so your factory boost solenoid has been removed yeh? are you still running the stock BOV? hmm .. re-reading your last post I see it happens ( the spike ) if your in gear or not.. that would make me even more suspicious of that boost T the turbotech ones were well received by the people on this forum so I would be pretty surprised if someone near you does not have one they can loan you jsut for testing reasons

interesting you should say that.. as our stagea ( RB25DET NEO ) does the same thing. I am not currently running a boost guage as everything is stock as a rock engine wise. I think 1/2 the problem is the auto takes so freaking long to change gears. so when you say it revs its tits off and does nothing.. is this just while its changing gears or after its engaged the gear? how many PSI are you running normally ( ie before it spikes ) what if you turn the boost down does it still happen?

ooooouch ! man that would be horrible!

I think there is some confusion in this thread over the fact that ( from what I understand) these bonnets are going to be almost entirely CF or Fiberglass. Its not a steel bonnet with a fiberglass/CF scoop or vent. Yea I was under the same impression as oxford1327 in regards to the crumple zone etc. I think its best that each purchaser check with their local authorities about the legalities of it

ZIGACTLY!!! but sadly its not what tends to happen in real life a lot of it comes down to you having to ask questions and seeking people that have done it before and to be honest you have to do a fair bit of leg work and harassing people to find out whats going on .. but thats getting a bit off the topic at hand. but yes.. he paid the $1000 or whatever it is right off the bat and yes you would assume you got technically correct info .. but you know what they say about assumptions

yes and no .. he had it on good advice that it would get complied a-ok and to be honest.. the whole process of importing a vehicle is pretty damned complex and it would take a crazy amount of time to digest every little nuance and technical detail of it all.

and to be honest its the principal of it all you know? the poor guy got given bum info so why should he go lpg? I mean dont take my tone in the wrong way its a good suggestion .. but yeah.. wont work unfortunately as pointed out earlier

move to W.A and you wont have to use the horn cause we can actually drive haha.. no in all seriousness.. simple solution for you.. and its kinda like a train horn but not quite. just go to about any automotive shop and buy an airhorn , you do have to feed it 12 volt and it does get a signal from your existing horn . but these things are fcking LOUD and will most certainly convey your toughts on other peoples driving habits. best thing to do would run a switch or something so you can use the air horn to vent your spleen and the standard horn to honk in a less angry tone.. like when you pick the New GF up from her parents house haha..

Dale - I agree on the rearward facing vent comment.. but I was thinking more the material ( carbon fibre /. fibergass ) aspect that might be defectable.

hmm .. interesting! I wouldnt get one personally just because the stagea is stock as a rock at the moment and more than likely going to stay that way.. and I have never had an overheating problem yet( granted its in the middle of winter ) but back to my point.. it will be interesting to see how these bonnets match the lines of the car ( I noticed on our S2 there is an area near where the bonnet is hinged that it meets with the lines on the rest of the car - sheesh.. reading that again makes NO sense.. least I know what I mean oh and I am pretty sure they are defectable in W.A but dont quote me on it.

some of those flywheel bolts are on there mentally tight and usually are loctited in there thats lock tight .. not loc tit. you can get breaker bars in a variety of lengths for around $40 all up like the ones here http://www.justtools.com.au/prod1027.htm but yeah as the others have said maybe try a longer breaker bar?

nobody has mentioned water to air intercoolers! they CAN be expensive.. but from what I understand fairly easy to fit.. and of course depending where you mount it ( they dont need airflow ) totally invisible. they have a pump and a small radiator style core PWR do one if I remember correctly. could be worth a go . yeh either that or the water spray kit.

why not just leave the rims that are on it as they are now. 20's will probably kill the handling and your ride quality is going to be sh1thouse. but up to you.

yeah .. its ugly.. but it IS a concept car.. lets just hope it never goes into production !