ssshonky

most probably just worn pads. The screeching noise is there by design to advise you the pads need changing. If your thinking about upgrading your rotors ( say to slotted ) now is an idea time to change them , as your going to need to remove the calipers to put the pads in

I think it essentially adds more pressure to the spring that holds the valve shut. hence will hold more pressure. and - running without a boost guage.. are you crazy? the only time I would ( and I am now ) run with no boost guage is on a completely stock motor. I would get a boost guage in there ASAP you dont want to be running your motor on an unknown PSI rating.. just asking for trouble if you ask me Be sure you keep a keen ear out for detonation etc.

you could *probably* make one by cutting a slit in a sparkplug socket with either an angle grinder or a cutting wheel on a dremel.. but if you like your fingers attached to your hand.. probably easier to buy one

in case anyone is curious as to what they look like - head over here and have a look http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog

waaho! more tools to buy .. yipeee!

thanks for the tip .. I was really not keen on removing that heat sheilding to get a spanner in there.

what size (external nut diameter ) are most of the o2 sensors? I wonder if a standard deep socket would work? yeah seeing where the sensor is .. its definately going to be much easier to remove with a dedicated socket. Right tool for the job and all that ! I still as yet have to get a consult cable on the car and check for fault codes - I have been so slack!

not sure on the logic of more boost using less fuel haha.. but .. its worth a try. I think I am going slightly mad.. but I remember saying somewhere that the stagea o2 sensors are supposed to be replaced at 40 and 80 thousand kays.. so I bet a lot of people that have imported a stag at say 100,000 have never had the o2 sensor replaced ever. its on our list of things to do next weekend calculated it currenty and its around 15L / 100km

glad to hear the exasust ripped off haa.. sorry.. just my opinion that those tips ruined a otherwise good package.

umm .. not sure why nobody has commented on this before why dont you just disconnect your Exhaust from where it bolts onto the dump from the turbo ? its going to be loud as hell .. and *might* run a bit lean .. but if the restriction is as massive as your leading it on to be .. a quick run on the dyno should be able to confirm if its pumping out much more horsepower. Even the " seat of the pants " dyno will tell you pretty quickly. just support the remaining portions of the exhaust if your going to road test it and be careful and you should be ok .. Obviously doing this on the dyno where you can keep an eye on mixtures etc will be the better way of doing it .

couldnt hurt hey? oh and something else I noticed on the weekend.. when I was leafing thru my service manual it actually says that the o2 sensor should be serviced/changed at 40 thousand and 80 thousand k so .. I wonder how many imports have NEVER had it changed. being that your not going to really notice it not working other than shitty fuel economy

Not speaking from user experience here but you might want to go and look at a PAR gearset. Least they are over east vs overseas. the only thing that might annoy you about straight cut is the whine they can generate. but to get over that you could get straight cut 1-4 then 5th as non straight cut. least then you can stick it in 5th to get a bit of peace and quiet.

there is also another product called "gasket goo" not 100% sure if its suitable for a waterpump application .. but this stuff never dries out , so when you remove the part you wont have to do battle with the silastic ( and having to scrape it off with a blade etc. )

hey matey.. We JUST imported one ( had it for around 3 weeks haha ) so if you need any info or want to chat on msn etc then let me know.. I think I have a few gems of wisdom/exeperience to give you. is the car getting complianced in Bris ? where abouts are you located?

oh and .. if it ( the CV joint ) was on the front ? if so its about 99% certain you will need to get a wheel alignment even if it was at the rear I woudl check it out if I were you eesh.. even THINKING of doing CV joints leave me cold

good to see it worked out .. I wonder how close he came to stabbing himself with the flat blade screwdriver as you tighten the steel band that clamps the boot over the joint ( can you tell I have done it before ? )

I am waiting to get to the end of our tank to see how the fuel consumption is going after my 1st service. who knows a cleaner air filter and new oil and plugs etc could make a difference I am really interested to hear of peoples opinions on wether or not the " equivalent " o2 sensors work as well as a genuine Nissan one. I dont really want to pay near on $250 for genuine

or check the entire thing on a car that you know the consult has worked on before so you can then ensure that your usb-> serial converter and consult work

Yeah he didnt really sound sold on it did he? interesting because I know very little about GTR's ( I drive a Lard ar$$ed stagea ) but was interesting that the front wheels are not actually driven all the time. Of course other cars can come withhin striking distance of a Stock GTR, that would be the case with just about any other performance car, but people love certain cars for specific reasons. There is a " culture " about the GTR though.

Sorry for getting Off topic Yeah I would take it to a C.V place. Because if you took it to your local mechanic he would probably just order in the parts from a CV place. My logic is that fixing CV joints is their ( the CV people ) bread and butter , so you would guess they would know them better than a standard mechanic.

though the feeling of pressing the grease into the hole where the splined shaft enters is oddly arousing!

my Kingdom for a Brycey! help me Brycey , help help me brycey. ( sung to the old sunday times jingle)

cheap to buy - expensive to run ! catch 22 really!

if you can find a good ( reputable ) place then your FAR FAR better off just taking the cars to them and letting them do it. I have attempted to do the outer boot on a pulsar CV joint and it was a royal ass pain . these guys at the CV shops have A) all the tools etc needed to do the job correctly b) spare parts etc c) the know how of what to do etc. I know Dale ( stinky rooster ) has an abject fear of letting others do his mechanical work .. but I would dare say even he might agree with me on this matter. CV joint place all the way

it has been my observation that almost ( and I stress almost ) any car you can think of SOMEONE has made it into what its not really meant to be. ie Magnas with massive wings and crazy body kits. and the same applies to the Stagea I suppose. I think its more a cruiser than anything else , but you cant blame people trying to put a bit more ZING into it ( suspension mods, shift kits etc) I think if you threw enough money at it you could get a stagea to " beast " status... but then again I think the vast majority are just happy with it as a cruiser .