SevenAngryPenguins

I must of forgot how big they were from when I when I changed mine

my injectors tick (not sure if thats normal) give the car a rev and as the revs drop back to idle they stop ticking and start again when the car reaches idle rpm

did you end up selling these wheels?? I have some on my 33 and i just wrecked one of mine on the back on a big rock so might be interested a bit down the track if you still have them of course

I have one and it holds 12 psi to the redline, and it held 14 psi boost no worries while I was setting it up

the R32 actuator has a 10 psi spring compared to a 33's of like 5-7 psi so yes will hold 10 psi nicely without a manual controller

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if your handy with a spanner and can be bothered do it yourself its really not that hard just time consuming

to get the lights out of mine (series 1) there was 2 nuts on the back which you can see if you pop the bonnet, some bolts on top (the really obvious ones) and was one bolt from under the gaurd need to remove the splash gaurds to see it

just a thought but maybe you should of installed a fuse on your amp wiring

haha too easy bro

hmmm i really need new rotors actually, how used are they? still heaps of meat no warping?

hey man got it working it was the hicas computer, i think i mentioned that in post 10...... but cheers anyway mate its always good to learn of new faults

actually i did ground my pump as well I just forgot........ i did some research on fpcm for other cars and came up with some interesting facts one was that its linked to the oil sender pressure sensor so no oil pressure no fuel pressure, another was that some are linked to a restraint control module so if your in a crash stops fuel and one more was that they normally operate in 2 ranges hi and low, anyhoo thought you might find it interesting to know some reasons why they are there.

yeah i did the same thing, it's seriously annoying if your doing any work on the car

oh sorry i got series one

washer bottle is still in place my hole goes under it

yeah i just installed mine and haven't put the horns back on yet not sure where a good spot is yet, I got mine in without hacking the reo also I hacked my thermo fan and front bar lights instead eek!

good to hear you fixed the problem, so how/where is the fpcm connected/wired i would have thought that it would have varied the positive supply voltage to the pump I gather from what you are saying is that it alters a resistive load in series before it goes to earth. Just curious as I'm still using the ecu triggered ground. With the beepers I have disconnected mine also however my windows still work if you have a look under the dash where you disconnected the plug there is a smaller plastic box just behind it with 2 small wires connected to it that is actauly the beeper, If you unplugged the one in front with the rather large wires to it then yes it kills the beeper and the window switches and who knows what else

hey can i see your knob, was still wanting those suspension pics too please

have you read this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...;hl=oil+control

I'm no expert but I'm not so sure its a good idea to run the walbro pump at an under voltage as it will decrease the life of the pump something about running at lower voltage will cause the pump to draw more current and heat up feel free to correct me I'm all for learning.

I rewired mine with a new relay in the boot so the pump is supplied straight from the battery the old relay is still in place I just use that to trigger my new relay. I read somewhere that the stock wiring cant handle the current draw from the bigger pump and also that the voltage can fall as low as 10V through the stock wiring.

sold pending payment/pickup

sold pending payment/pickup

how funny... i thought there was a bug on my screen for a second or two