SevenAngryPenguins

very easy takes about 45mins or so, just need some car ramps to make life easy have the new bar now so old one will be off by the weekend

what car alarm is it if you know the brand and they still make them you should be able to get a new controller ordered then you just need to find out the procedure for getting it programmed is it an autowatch by any chance?

Lota its next to Manly/Wynnum area (Brisbane)

try kicking it

+1 for checking cooler piping i had same problem about 2500rpm and 4 psi boost, does it rev up fine in neutral?

hey mate im after a handbrake, whats the handle condition like, could you send me a pic, I have a series 1 but im guessing they are the same, also do you have the plastic air vent that sits up top on the right underneath where people normally boost gauges, and one last thing im after is a round rubber stopper that sets the bonnet height at the front they just scew in. I offer $50 delivered to Brisbane.

got a photo of brake stopper by any chance?

Near new whiteline adjustable 20mm rear sway bar (BNR11Z) This bar is something like twice as stiff as the stock bar on the softest setting, but don't quote me on that. Only been used on the car for a few weeks. Comes with new/unused links and link bushes. D bushes have been used but are in new condition. Also comes with 3/4 of a bag of grease, should be plenty only used a bit to grease my new D's. Location - Brisbane Price - $180 ONO

you beat me to it

you can use the loop but some timing guns have the problem of reading double, i have a super cheap 50 buck jobbie and it reads doulble the actual setting so the gun lights up at 30 deg but its actually at 15 deg

what rpm did it make 12psi boost, why did you only run 12 psi?? slides aren't water cooled are they?

thanks gary, yes has the GB springs/shocks, looks like i'll be getting the bigger bar then. Can you tell me how much stiffer the bar gets with each hole of adjustment (for the 22mm)

that was the problem there are multiple 12V feeds (well 3 i can see straight off) to the ecu it was starting to get to a chop and try to start it sort of thing but didnt want to mess the loom up too much if someone knows which wire exactly to chop, maybe I could just intercept the eccs relay. Wires I tried were 109, 10, 26 but car can run without these surprisingly

nice work, I did something similar minus the extra switches, out of curiosity which wires did you break from the ecu? I ended up doing the fuel pump relay but wanted to kill the ignition or afm but couldnt find the right wires I tried a couple (using ecu pinout diagram) but got annoyed at cutting wires and the engine still able to run. I also wired mine so that the relays can only be energised once the alarm is turned off and the ignition turned on and when the car is turned off the relays unlatch

anyone know which number wire to cut from the ecu to kill the ignition I ended up just cutting the fuel pump relay supply, the car will still run but only for about 5 seconds, I also tried cutting the afm ground and ignition grounds but car still ran (i dont want to chop anymore wires until i'm sure now) I used the ecu pin out diagram from here http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/ or here http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/images/7/72...ECU_Pinouts.jpg

Hi suspension guru's, Ok a few weeks ago I got my self some whiteline swaybars the front (BNF24Z) was 24mm, The back one (BNR11Z) is 20mm with 2 adjustments, well i noticed that the group buy bar is 22mm with 3 adjustments, how much stiffer is the 22mm bar and my question is would it be worth while upgrading to the 22mm bar?? I already have the back bar on the hardest setting and the front on the second hardest. heres a video of the car in action if your bored

the fpcm controls module alters the voltage to the fuel pump based on load from the ecu and im pretty sure it has 2 settings low and high, it has this because at light loads not as much fuel is needed so the pump doesn't pump as much fuel around to be heated by the engine bay, nothing to do with noise walbro is way louder than stock but you still have to be standing at the back of the car before you can even hear it. I only suggested that you bypass the fpcm as it maybe playing up not giving the correct voltage at high load. But if I was you id just change the pump and be done with it maybe read this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fu...tml&hl=fpcm

yeah i have walbro and its not noisey at all

I think you need a better camera the wheel in the first photo looks like its been used as a boat anchor.

I feel sorry for you, you obviuosly have no sense of humour what so ever.

walbro is more than adequate for the stock turbo, another thing you can do is bypass the fpcm (fuel pump control module) alters fuel pump voltage for different engine loads, by attaching the fuel pumps earth lead straight to ground, so the pump gets max possible voltage all the time. And if you want to take it another step further rewire the pump with a new relay and higher gauge wire straight from the battery (not really necessary though)

haha yeah it was my little brother he kept on trying to look at the smoke I think

ive been knocked back by tyre place just for having tiny hole in the side told him it was just a skid tyre but he didnt care

that must of been insanely loud with two of them, did you ever get the spl measured just asking out of curiosity? I'd buy it but I have a 15" Hertz (and no boot really) free bump

if you like smoke i got some vids too!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYRmbYWyh2Q http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYK8aA_vsPw