Dohmar

what price for the temp sensor and postage to adelaide? -D

from the sounds of it, its the coolant hose under the plenum or the heater core feed hose at the rear of the engine. Both are a prick to get to... -D

TBH I've never heard of A-Ram ;\ that in itself would steer me to IBM or OCZ or one of the more well known companies Data recovery for an ssd would be easier than a hdd I would imagine, however it'll still be $500+ to get it done I'm guessing Incidentally, just cause the BIOS cant see the hdd, doesnt mean the OS cant. Linux in particular ignores the bios and initializes the hdd controllers directly. Can you download and burn a linux based data recovery boot cd and give that a go? -D

Ill give you a call on Monday Pete when I get some info from work. We have to go to great lengths to destroy our drives at work for a similar reason, and I believe work may have a firm that can do confidential recovery (it gets put in a coded box and sent via secure van to the destination) if thats what you're worried about -D

or IXL-005 -D

It depends how cactus the drive is - you're saying the PC can't see it, I'm assuming you mean Windows but can the BIOS see the drive? Can Windows detect the physical hardware but not display a partition, or can it see a partition but not be able to mount it to a drive letter. What you need is a bootable copy of windows from a usb drive with a copy of getbackdata and a partition recovery, so it can see what's gone wrong. If the BIOS cannot see the drive, I'm afraid you're out of luck (at least DIY) - if its very important you can send it to melbourne for data recovery but that isnt cheap. And there is a very very slight chance that the manufacturer will simply swap the logic board out of the ssd and leave your memory intact - unlikely tho -D

Tried to PM you on Suspension You cannot recieve any new PM's is what I have been told by the board ;P PM me when you've cleared your inbox out -D

but foley aint shit ever since he got smacked out on his pizza crawl, hes been politically as toxic as rann (rightfully so) Hes already said hes leving politics come next election... He wont do shit. But I'll still try and rock up to shove the middle finger in mike ranns face -D

Man said to wife "Alright you sexy thing, bedroom now." She looked at him and said, "Ooh, you kinky bastard." He said, "No, seriously, the footy’s about to start, f**k off!” -D

Sandpaper is what pros use... you start on a coarse grain and work it to a smoother grit. If you go over it once just to scrape the paint away without polishing the bare metal then it'd look naff. The alternative is to paint the entire caliper and buy decals from nissan or use a spray paint stencil -D Edit - heres my example with the sandpaper method

What he said. get the calipers sandblasted and powdercoated, replace the seals and use on 80-120 grit wet/dry to sand the letters back -D

As Dion would say.... "F**k yo' couch, Pete!" -D

Spotted SVD 177 (GTS2) heading past pooraka maccas this arvo around 2 -D

Props Matty, and welcome to the club You'll find this place a great wealth of info, and having bought Martin's car I can attest that it is one of the best examples of GTR's out there. To most GTR owners who are new, I would say 'watch your wallet' but considering Martin already did that, I doubt you'll have much to worry about. Enjoy! -D

bahahah content filter fail -D

*sAfrican Americans* -D

would love to see this 200 someday. ive seen ur pics of it and it looks dope. i just wanna see it moving! -D

That'd be such a wicked job eh. So many people at my work that could do with a hip n shoulder -D

Terry Tate Office Linebacker I lold. -D

Call Tony @ Prestige Car Care (in my sig). He'll look after ya. Did a fantastic job on my 32 last time. Probably need to book him in a couple of weeks cause my cars been in a workshop for the last 2 months and looks like arse... -D

The only reliable security, is a trunk monkey. -D

thats pretty damn good for australian copper. I wouldnt be complaining, thats for sure -D

As far as I'm aware, Writeoffs doing the charter... That said we still need the wind to be 15kts or less so it might not happen if the weather is shite Still gonna be a good weekend. Cookin' tonite. -D

Paddy takes his wife to a hotel... She lays on the bed with legs open and says "You know what i want dont you?' "Yep" he replies "all the fkn bed by the looks of it!!!!" boom tish -d

This is incorrect. N1 pumps have bigger gears than the standard pumps, however due to this there is less clearance at the lowest point of the gear cutout. Standard pumps won't pump as much, nor at the same pressure as the N1 or aftermarket pumps, however they won't die as easily as an N1 pump. Check this pic out http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=215653 Notice the thickness on the outer section where the tooth slides into? On the first two its rather thick, 4-5mm it looks like. Check out the thickness of the outer edge of the N1 pump - its thin as, 2mm or something. When the revs go over 8000, that is what breaks. You won't have this problem on a Jun, HKS, Tomei, Nitto or even Nismo pumps as they weren't manufactured with such a small amount of metal holding those teeth in.. If I was you, buy the built engine with the n1 pump, and when finances permit it, then take the engine out and replace that pump with a Nitto (or brand of your choice). In either case, just keep the revs under 7500 to be safe and if you want to take it to a track, then change the pump -D